Simple Joinery Side Chair

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Side Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Simple joinery techniques using glue and dowel pins are employed to assemble the efficient and sturdy frame for this chair. Heavyweight cotton tension straps across the seat and back hug your body as you sit. The entire assembly process takes about 2 days to complete.

Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Measure and saw the following lengths of wood: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long.
1     Measure and saw the following lengths of wood: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long.
2     Mark 1/2in (1.5cm) from the end of the 106in (270cm) long piece of wood. Draw a line from that mark to the opposite edge, as photographed.
2     Mark 1/2in (1.5cm) from the end of the 106in (270cm) long piece of wood. Draw a line from that mark to the opposite edge, as photographed.
3     Saw along the line from step 1.
3     Saw along the line from step 1.
4     Along each opposite edge, measure 25.5in (65cm) and make a mark. Draw a line connecting those two points. The line should parallel the line from step 1.
4     Along each opposite edge, measure 25.5in (65cm) and make a mark. Draw a line connecting those two points. The line should parallel the line from step 1.
5     Saw along the line from step 3. Using the piece just cut, line it up along the remaining piece of wood, marking and sawing. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
5     Saw along the line from step 3. Using the piece just cut, line it up along the remaining piece of wood, marking and sawing. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
6     In one end of a piece from step 5, drill 2 pilot holes perpendicular to the angle of the wood edge. Drill larger holes inside of your pilot holes with a 1/4in drill bit.
6     In one end of a piece from step 5, drill 2 pilot holes perpendicular to the angle of the wood edge. Drill larger holes inside of your pilot holes with a 1/4in drill bit.
7     Repeat step 6 on a second pice of wood from step 5.
7     Repeat step 6 on a second pice of wood from step 5.
8     Add glue to holes and insert dowel pins until about 1/2in (1cm) of each pin is exposed. Wipe away excess glue.
8     Add glue to holes and insert dowel pins until about 1/2in (1cm) of each pin is exposed. Wipe away excess glue.
9     Along one side of a 20in (51cm) long piece of wood, make marks at 5.5in (14cm) and 13.25in (33.5cm).
9     Along one side of a 20in (51cm) long piece of wood, make marks at 5.5in (14cm) and 13.25in (33.5cm).
10     Line up your pieces from step 8 inside of your marks from step 9, as pictured. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
10     Line up your pieces from step 8 inside of your marks from step 9, as pictured. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
11     Tilt the piece from step 9 on its edge, and again mark where the dowel pins lie.
11     Tilt the piece from step 9 on its edge, and again mark where the dowel pins lie.
12     Drill pilot holes, then 1/4in holes exactly where the dowel pins lined up. The holes should only be 1/2in (1.5cm) deep. If you turn twist the drill bit around in the hole after drilling to your depth, you'll make a more generous opening for the dowel pins.
12     Drill pilot holes, then 1/4in holes exactly where the dowel pins lined up. The holes should only be 1/2in (1.5cm) deep. If you turn twist the drill bit around in the hole after drilling to your depth, you'll make a more generous opening for the dowel pins.
13     Glue inside the holes and where the wood will make contact.
13     Glue inside the holes and where the wood will make contact.
14     Connect the pieces from step 8 and step 12. To make sure the legs stay straight, clamp a piece of wood across both of them (or lay the piece flat on a table, with weight on the legs).
14     Connect the pieces from step 8 and step 12. To make sure the legs stay straight, clamp a piece of wood across both of them (or lay the piece flat on a table, with weight on the legs).
15     Repeat steps 6-14, but making a mirror image of what you produced in those steps.
15     Repeat steps 6-14, but making a mirror image of what you produced in those steps.
16     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the four 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces.
16     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the four 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces.
17     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 18.5in (47cm) long pieces, making the square form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
17     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 18.5in (47cm) long pieces, making the square form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
18     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 10.5in (26cm) long pieces, making the form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
18     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 10.5in (26cm) long pieces, making the form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
19     Mark 15.25in (38cm) up the leg on the shorter side of the arm rest, and mark 14.5in (36cm) up the leg on the longer side of the arm rest.
19     Mark 15.25in (38cm) up the leg on the shorter side of the arm rest, and mark 14.5in (36cm) up the leg on the longer side of the arm rest.
20     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces.
20     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces.
21     As in steps 10-14, align the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces under the marks from step 19 and join them to the chair legs, as photographed.
21     As in steps 10-14, align the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces under the marks from step 19 and join them to the chair legs, as photographed.
22     Repeat steps 19 and 21, joining the other two legs to the 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces. On a level surface, make the legs completely vertical and ensure all 4 legs are touching the ground.
22     Repeat steps 19 and 21, joining the other two legs to the 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces. On a level surface, make the legs completely vertical and ensure all 4 legs are touching the ground.
23     Align the piece from step 17 in the center of the chair legs. drill one hole from the square piece to each chair leg and insert a screw. Prop up the square on a piece of strap during this step.
23     Align the piece from step 17 in the center of the chair legs. drill one hole from the square piece to each chair leg and insert a screw. Prop up the square on a piece of strap during this step.
24     On the piece from step 18, make two marks: 3.5in (9cm) on one side and 3.75in (9.5cm) on the other. Make 2 more marks in a mirror image on the opposite side of the piece.
24     On the piece from step 18, make two marks: 3.5in (9cm) on one side and 3.75in (9.5cm) on the other. Make 2 more marks in a mirror image on the opposite side of the piece.
25     Drill and screw in the back rest into the long side of the arm rest. Make sure the positioning looks like the photograph before you drill.
25     Drill and screw in the back rest into the long side of the arm rest. Make sure the positioning looks like the photograph before you drill.
26     Take apart the assembly, and sand all three pieces, knocking off the edges and corners. You want the places around where the straps will like to be particularly rounded.
26     Take apart the assembly, and sand all three pieces, knocking off the edges and corners. You want the places around where the straps will like to be particularly rounded.
27     Brush on two coats of varnish.
27     Brush on two coats of varnish.
28     On the underside of your seat, fold under the end of your strap and place 6 staples through it.
28     On the underside of your seat, fold under the end of your strap and place 6 staples through it.
29     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
29     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
30     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
30     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
31     Repeat steps 28-30 with 6 more straps, equally spaced. The harder the wood, the smaller staples you will have to use. You may also have to avoid stapling into wood knots.
31     Repeat steps 28-30 with 6 more straps, equally spaced. The harder the wood, the smaller staples you will have to use. You may also have to avoid stapling into wood knots.
32     As in steps 28-30 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced evenly apart.
32     As in steps 28-30 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced evenly apart.
33     As in steps 28-30 apply straps across the back rest as photographed. After cinching, it can help to use clamps to hold the strap in place while stapling.
33     As in steps 28-30 apply straps across the back rest as photographed. After cinching, it can help to use clamps to hold the strap in place while stapling.
34     Weave and staple in webbing across the other side of the back rest, as photographed. These straps should be medium tightness, not extra tight.
34     Weave and staple in webbing across the other side of the back rest, as photographed. These straps should be medium tightness, not extra tight.
35     Re-assemble the back rest and seat. You may have to screw through the webbing, that is ok.
35     Re-assemble the back rest and seat. You may have to screw through the webbing, that is ok.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 30 yards (29 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 40
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 8
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
Help Each Other

4 thoughts on “Simple Joinery Side Chair”

  1. Is there any reason not to varnish the wood pieces right after cutting them & before assembling the chair, so one wouldn’t have to take it all apart & put it back together again?

    Reply

    1. You could do that for sure. You would still have to put the chair all together and then disassemble (we’re only talking about 8 screws) to apply the straps. This way you have all of the holes lined up before you apply the straps over them.
      Hope that helps!

      Reply

  2. Thanks for your work! Very inspiring.
    Any ideas for how you might modify this to make this suitable for a deck/outdoor chair? Was thinking of replacing cotton with nylon straps, using outdoor wood glue, and putting a good varnish on the wood. I wonder if I’d get a couple years out of it here in the NY region.

    Reply

    1. Hi Andrew, that sounds like a fun project. All three of those modifications should work ok, but your strap selection will be most important. You want something that will have low stretch, because it’s very important to keep the tension in the back rest straps, so that will probably be polyester in this case. You could also use some sort of cord, like a vinyl cord, and do a weaving.
      Also beware of the kind of warping of the wood that is inevitable outdoors, so unless you are willing to make major modifications like making the seat solid wood instead of a suspension seat, you will want to keep these out of wet and high moisture environments.
      Good luck!

      Reply

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