Category: Hard to assemble

Simple Joinery Daybed

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Daybed by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Daybed

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Sharing the same design as the Simple Joinery Long Bench, the assembly steps outlined below use modified instructions from the bench assembly. Much like a cot, the daybed utilizes tension straps in lieu of cushions. The timeless visual appeal and functionality of the canvas straps combine with the efficient engineering of reinforced wood joinery in this design. As with all of the Simple Joinery designs, the challenging assembly takes about 1-2 days to complete.

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Daybed by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Daybed by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Cut wood lengths listed in the parts index.
1     Cut wood lengths listed in the parts index.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 77in (196cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 77in (196cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
8     Along the spine of another 77in (196cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
8     Along the spine of another 77in (196cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 77in (196cm) long pieces of wood.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 77in (196cm) long pieces of wood.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 39in (99cm) long piece.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 39in (99cm) long piece.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of 39in (99cm) long wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of 39in (99cm) long wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed daybed legs.
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed daybed legs.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 14in (35cm) from each end.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 14in (35cm) from each end.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 so that all straps are equally spaced, about 3/4in (2cm) apart.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 so that all straps are equally spaced, about 3/4in (2cm) apart.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the frame, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the frame.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the frame, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the frame.
35     Attach the frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the bed is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
35     Attach the frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the bed is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Poplar Wood, 1in x 4in (20.5mm x 95mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 77in (196cm) long, 4 pieces 39in (99cm) long
Smooth Planed Poplar Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 50 yards (46 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 50
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 24
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
Help Each Other

Simple Joinery Long Bench

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Bench by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Long Bench

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Because of the efficient use of wood in this design, costs to produce it are rather low. It’s generous 73in length can be made longer or shorter by changing a quick wood measurement during its production. Working with hardwood can be quite tough, though necessary in the case of this design, but poplar hardwood (or other equivalent wood on the Janka hardness test scale, like cherry) is just soft enough where cutting, sanding, and stapling are easy.

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Bench by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Bench by Ian Anderson
Assembly
Expand →
1     Saw these lengths of wood: 4 pieces 71in (180cm) long, 8 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long.
1     Saw these lengths of wood: 4 pieces 71in (180cm) long, 8 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 71in (180cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 71in (180cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
8     Along the spine of another 71in (180cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
8     Along the spine of another 71in (180cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 71in (180cm) long pieces of wood.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 71in (180cm) long pieces of wood.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed bench legs.
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed bench legs.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 10.5in (27cm) from each end.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 10.5in (27cm) from each end.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 with 5 or 6 more straps, equally spaced.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 with 5 or 6 more straps, equally spaced.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the seat frame.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the seat frame.
35     Attach the seat frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the seat is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
35     Attach the seat frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the seat is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Poplar Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 71in (180cm) long, 8 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 32 yards (29 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 50
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 24
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
Help Each Other

Simple Joinery Dining Table

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Dining Table by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Dining Table

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

The original prototype of this design was produced with 1in x 2in wood legs in an effort to push the limits on what a reinforced leg structure could do with the thinnest possible wood. Though it only tended to wobble slightly, because of the wood strength and not structure strength, it was best to upgrade to 1in x 3in legs. Thought it’s aesthetics suffered from the change, its structure triumphed – an all too common tradeoff in the design process. As with all of the Simple Joinery designs, the assembly process is difficult but rewarding.

Simple Joinery Dining Table by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Dining Table by Ian Anderson
Assembly
Expand →
1     Measure and saw the lengths of wood specified in the parts index.
1     Measure and saw the lengths of wood specified in the parts index.
2     At a 45 degree angle, saw both 47.5in (121cm) long pieces exactly in half. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
2     At a 45 degree angle, saw both 47.5in (121cm) long pieces exactly in half. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
3     About 3in (8cm) from the end of the 76.5in (194cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the edge.
3     About 3in (8cm) from the end of the 76.5in (194cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the edge.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Do not drill through the other side of the wood.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Do not drill through the other side of the wood.
5     With a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
5     With a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
6     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 5.
6     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 5.
7     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
7     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
9     Line up the piece from step 8 along the spine of the long side of the plywood, with 3/4in (20.5mm) hanging over. Mark where the dowels lie.
9     Line up the piece from step 8 along the spine of the long side of the plywood, with 3/4in (20.5mm) hanging over. Mark where the dowels lie.
10     Drill holes in the plywood where your dowel pins were marked, glue in the holes and along the plywood spine, and join the pieces. It is very important that the top of the plywood and the edge of the 76.5in (194cm) long piece are flush with each other.
10     Drill holes in the plywood where your dowel pins were marked, glue in the holes and along the plywood spine, and join the pieces. It is very important that the top of the plywood and the edge of the 76.5in (194cm) long piece are flush with each other.
11     Repeat steps 3-10 joining a 33in (84cm) long piece of wood to the short side of the plywood. Make sure to glue all areas where wood contacts other wood.
11     Repeat steps 3-10 joining a 33in (84cm) long piece of wood to the short side of the plywood. Make sure to glue all areas where wood contacts other wood.
12     Repeat steps 3-11 on the remaining two sides of the plywood.
12     Repeat steps 3-11 on the remaining two sides of the plywood.
13     Mark 8in (21cm) from the end of a 28.25in (72cm) long piece of wood, at the left edge.
13     Mark 8in (21cm) from the end of a 28.25in (72cm) long piece of wood, at the left edge.
14     Join a piece of wood from step 2 at the mark you made with 2 dowel pins and glue. The sharp point of the piece from step 2 should rest at the 8in (21cm) mark.
14     Join a piece of wood from step 2 at the mark you made with 2 dowel pins and glue. The sharp point of the piece from step 2 should rest at the 8in (21cm) mark.
15     Mark 10.5in (27cm) from the other end of the 28.25in (72cm) long piece of wood.
15     Mark 10.5in (27cm) from the other end of the 28.25in (72cm) long piece of wood.
16     Align the bottom of a 14in (35.5cm) long piece of wood at that mark at a 45 degree angle. Join the two pieces with 2 dowel pins and glue.
16     Align the bottom of a 14in (35.5cm) long piece of wood at that mark at a 45 degree angle. Join the two pieces with 2 dowel pins and glue.
17     Repeating the same method as steps 13-16, join a few more pieces (the assembly on the left is the new one).
17     Repeating the same method as steps 13-16, join a few more pieces (the assembly on the left is the new one).
18     Orient one piece from step 17 vertically, and attach a 33in (84cm) long piece to it with glue and two screws placed not more than 1.5in (4cm) from the end of the vertical piece. Be sure to drill pilot holes and countersink holes for the screw head.
18     Orient one piece from step 17 vertically, and attach a 33in (84cm) long piece to it with glue and two screws placed not more than 1.5in (4cm) from the end of the vertical piece. Be sure to drill pilot holes and countersink holes for the screw head.
19     Repeat step 18, joining the other piece from step 17 to the other side of the 33in (84cm) long piece. Then, drill pilot holes, glue and screw together the two pieces that cross the 33in (84cm) long piece (as pictured).
19     Repeat step 18, joining the other piece from step 17 to the other side of the 33in (84cm) long piece. Then, drill pilot holes, glue and screw together the two pieces that cross the 33in (84cm) long piece (as pictured).
20     Drilling 2 pilot holes and securing with 2 screws, attach the 49in (125cm) long piece at a 90 degree angle to the 33in (84cm) long piece from step 19.
20     Drilling 2 pilot holes and securing with 2 screws, attach the 49in (125cm) long piece at a 90 degree angle to the 33in (84cm) long piece from step 19.
21     Repeat steps 13-19 to make an extra pair of table legs, and attach them to the opposite end of the 49in (125cm) long piece, as in step 20.
21     Repeat steps 13-19 to make an extra pair of table legs, and attach them to the opposite end of the 49in (125cm) long piece, as in step 20.
22     Glue and screw each 7in (18cm) long piece to the ends of each 14in (35.5cm) long piece at a 45 degree angle. Again, drill pilot and countersink holes for the screw.
22     Glue and screw each 7in (18cm) long piece to the ends of each 14in (35.5cm) long piece at a 45 degree angle. Again, drill pilot and countersink holes for the screw.
23     Align the structure from steps 13-22 centered on the underside of your table top. With 2 screws, as photographed, attach each 7in (18cm) long piece to the table top.
23     Align the structure from steps 13-22 centered on the underside of your table top. With 2 screws, as photographed, attach each 7in (18cm) long piece to the table top.
24     With 2 screws, as photographed, attach each table leg to the table top.
24     With 2 screws, as photographed, attach each table leg to the table top.
25     Sand the whole table, rounding the edges.
25     Sand the whole table, rounding the edges.
26     Apply 2-3 coats of varnish to the entire table.
26     Apply 2-3 coats of varnish to the entire table.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, Ash, and Oak, but you will want it to match your plywood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 76.5in (194cm) long, 2 pieces 33in (84cm) long, 4 pieces 28.25in (72cm) long, 4 pieces 14in (35.5cm) long, 2 pieces 47.5in (121cm) long, 2 pieces 31.5in (79cm) long, 1 piece 49in (125cm) long
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, 1in x 2in (20.5mm x 34mm)
*Match the style of wood above.
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 7in (18cm) long
Hard Wood Plywood, 3/4in (18mm or 25mm) thickness
*Any popular hardwood plywood can be used, but you will want the exterior laminate to match your 1in x 3in Hard Wood. Have your plywood cut to the size below at any lumber or hardware store before bringing home.
 
Quantity required: 1 piece 75in (190cm) x 33in (84cm)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 40
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/2 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 28
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Simple Joinery Scrap Wood Stool

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Poplar Stool by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Scrap Wood Stool

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

This stool, a collage of scrap wood made utilizing modern versions of joinery methods like those used by John Surlis for his Leitrim Stool, is quite easy on the eyes because of its organic form. Tools like the quick bar clamp and the hand block planer are fun to use, making the 1 full day assembly time fly by.

Simple Joinery Poplar Stool by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Poplar Stool by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Propping up one side on a piece of wood, saw lengths of wood for the following steps.
1     Propping up one side on a piece of wood, saw lengths of wood for the following steps.
2     Glue pieces of wood together to make a roughly 18in x 1.5in x 1.5in (46cm x 4cm x 4cm) piece.
2     Glue pieces of wood together to make a roughly 18in x 1.5in x 1.5in (46cm x 4cm x 4cm) piece.
3     Clamp the glued pieces together tightly and let dry. Repeat steps 2-3 two more times, to make 3 total legs.
3     Clamp the glued pieces together tightly and let dry. Repeat steps 2-3 two more times, to make 3 total legs.
4     Glue and clamp wood pieces together to make a roughly 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
4     Glue and clamp wood pieces together to make a roughly 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
5     Use the planer tool to shave the edges off of the legs, and shave one end of each leg down to a 1.25in (3cm) diameter. This measurement should match the size of the drill bit you are using.
5     Use the planer tool to shave the edges off of the legs, and shave one end of each leg down to a 1.25in (3cm) diameter. This measurement should match the size of the drill bit you are using.
6     Saw each corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
6     Saw each corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
7     Further saw each existing corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece to make a circular form.
7     Further saw each existing corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece to make a circular form.
8     Use caution with this step. With two firm hands on the drill, drill 3 holes through the top of the seat and out the bottom of the seat. Each hole angled outward.
8     Use caution with this step. With two firm hands on the drill, drill 3 holes through the top of the seat and out the bottom of the seat. Each hole angled outward.
9     Apply glue to the legs and twist through the seat holes until the leg emerges out the other end.
9     Apply glue to the legs and twist through the seat holes until the leg emerges out the other end.
10     Saw away the excess of the legs.
10     Saw away the excess of the legs.
11     Sand the rough edges and sand away the excess glue.
11     Sand the rough edges and sand away the excess glue.
12     Brush on two coats of varnish.
12     Brush on two coats of varnish.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, Various Sizes
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended.
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish
Quantity required: 1/2 Quart
Tools
Wood Glue
Quick Bar Clamp, Medium/Heavy Duty
Hand Block Planer
Hand Saw
Power Drill
1 1/4in Spade Drill Bit
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
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Simple Joinery Side Chair

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Side Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Simple joinery techniques using glue and dowel pins are employed to assemble the efficient and sturdy frame for this chair. Heavyweight cotton tension straps across the seat and back hug your body as you sit. The entire assembly process takes about 2 days to complete.

Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Measure and saw the following lengths of wood: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long.
1     Measure and saw the following lengths of wood: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long.
2     Mark 1/2in (1.5cm) from the end of the 106in (270cm) long piece of wood. Draw a line from that mark to the opposite edge, as photographed.
2     Mark 1/2in (1.5cm) from the end of the 106in (270cm) long piece of wood. Draw a line from that mark to the opposite edge, as photographed.
3     Saw along the line from step 1.
3     Saw along the line from step 1.
4     Along each opposite edge, measure 25.5in (65cm) and make a mark. Draw a line connecting those two points. The line should parallel the line from step 1.
4     Along each opposite edge, measure 25.5in (65cm) and make a mark. Draw a line connecting those two points. The line should parallel the line from step 1.
5     Saw along the line from step 3. Using the piece just cut, line it up along the remaining piece of wood, marking and sawing. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
5     Saw along the line from step 3. Using the piece just cut, line it up along the remaining piece of wood, marking and sawing. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
6     In one end of a piece from step 5, drill 2 pilot holes perpendicular to the angle of the wood edge. Drill larger holes inside of your pilot holes with a 1/4in drill bit.
6     In one end of a piece from step 5, drill 2 pilot holes perpendicular to the angle of the wood edge. Drill larger holes inside of your pilot holes with a 1/4in drill bit.
7     Repeat step 6 on a second pice of wood from step 5.
7     Repeat step 6 on a second pice of wood from step 5.
8     Add glue to holes and insert dowel pins until about 1/2in (1cm) of each pin is exposed. Wipe away excess glue.
8     Add glue to holes and insert dowel pins until about 1/2in (1cm) of each pin is exposed. Wipe away excess glue.
9     Along one side of a 20in (51cm) long piece of wood, make marks at 5.5in (14cm) and 13.25in (33.5cm).
9     Along one side of a 20in (51cm) long piece of wood, make marks at 5.5in (14cm) and 13.25in (33.5cm).
10     Line up your pieces from step 8 inside of your marks from step 9, as pictured. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
10     Line up your pieces from step 8 inside of your marks from step 9, as pictured. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
11     Tilt the piece from step 9 on its edge, and again mark where the dowel pins lie.
11     Tilt the piece from step 9 on its edge, and again mark where the dowel pins lie.
12     Drill pilot holes, then 1/4in holes exactly where the dowel pins lined up. The holes should only be 1/2in (1.5cm) deep. If you turn twist the drill bit around in the hole after drilling to your depth, you'll make a more generous opening for the dowel pins.
12     Drill pilot holes, then 1/4in holes exactly where the dowel pins lined up. The holes should only be 1/2in (1.5cm) deep. If you turn twist the drill bit around in the hole after drilling to your depth, you'll make a more generous opening for the dowel pins.
13     Glue inside the holes and where the wood will make contact.
13     Glue inside the holes and where the wood will make contact.
14     Connect the pieces from step 8 and step 12. To make sure the legs stay straight, clamp a piece of wood across both of them (or lay the piece flat on a table, with weight on the legs).
14     Connect the pieces from step 8 and step 12. To make sure the legs stay straight, clamp a piece of wood across both of them (or lay the piece flat on a table, with weight on the legs).
15     Repeat steps 6-14, but making a mirror image of what you produced in those steps.
15     Repeat steps 6-14, but making a mirror image of what you produced in those steps.
16     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the four 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces.
16     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the four 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces.
17     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 18.5in (47cm) long pieces, making the square form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
17     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 18.5in (47cm) long pieces, making the square form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
18     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 10.5in (26cm) long pieces, making the form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
18     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 10.5in (26cm) long pieces, making the form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
19     Mark 15.25in (38cm) up the leg on the shorter side of the arm rest, and mark 14.5in (36cm) up the leg on the longer side of the arm rest.
19     Mark 15.25in (38cm) up the leg on the shorter side of the arm rest, and mark 14.5in (36cm) up the leg on the longer side of the arm rest.
20     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces.
20     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces.
21     As in steps 10-14, align the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces under the marks from step 19 and join them to the chair legs, as photographed.
21     As in steps 10-14, align the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces under the marks from step 19 and join them to the chair legs, as photographed.
22     Repeat steps 19 and 21, joining the other two legs to the 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces. On a level surface, make the legs completely vertical and ensure all 4 legs are touching the ground.
22     Repeat steps 19 and 21, joining the other two legs to the 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces. On a level surface, make the legs completely vertical and ensure all 4 legs are touching the ground.
23     Align the piece from step 17 in the center of the chair legs. drill one hole from the square piece to each chair leg and insert a screw. Prop up the square on a piece of strap during this step.
23     Align the piece from step 17 in the center of the chair legs. drill one hole from the square piece to each chair leg and insert a screw. Prop up the square on a piece of strap during this step.
24     On the piece from step 18, make two marks: 3.5in (9cm) on one side and 3.75in (9.5cm) on the other. Make 2 more marks in a mirror image on the opposite side of the piece.
24     On the piece from step 18, make two marks: 3.5in (9cm) on one side and 3.75in (9.5cm) on the other. Make 2 more marks in a mirror image on the opposite side of the piece.
25     Drill and screw in the back rest into the long side of the arm rest. Make sure the positioning looks like the photograph before you drill.
25     Drill and screw in the back rest into the long side of the arm rest. Make sure the positioning looks like the photograph before you drill.
26     Take apart the assembly, and sand all three pieces, knocking off the edges and corners. You want the places around where the straps will like to be particularly rounded.
26     Take apart the assembly, and sand all three pieces, knocking off the edges and corners. You want the places around where the straps will like to be particularly rounded.
27     Brush on two coats of varnish.
27     Brush on two coats of varnish.
28     On the underside of your seat, fold under the end of your strap and place 6 staples through it.
28     On the underside of your seat, fold under the end of your strap and place 6 staples through it.
29     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
29     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
30     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
30     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
31     Repeat steps 28-30 with 6 more straps, equally spaced. The harder the wood, the smaller staples you will have to use. You may also have to avoid stapling into wood knots.
31     Repeat steps 28-30 with 6 more straps, equally spaced. The harder the wood, the smaller staples you will have to use. You may also have to avoid stapling into wood knots.
32     As in steps 28-30 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced evenly apart.
32     As in steps 28-30 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced evenly apart.
33     As in steps 28-30 apply straps across the back rest as photographed. After cinching, it can help to use clamps to hold the strap in place while stapling.
33     As in steps 28-30 apply straps across the back rest as photographed. After cinching, it can help to use clamps to hold the strap in place while stapling.
34     Weave and staple in webbing across the other side of the back rest, as photographed. These straps should be medium tightness, not extra tight.
34     Weave and staple in webbing across the other side of the back rest, as photographed. These straps should be medium tightness, not extra tight.
35     Re-assemble the back rest and seat. You may have to screw through the webbing, that is ok.
35     Re-assemble the back rest and seat. You may have to screw through the webbing, that is ok.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 30 yards (29 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 40
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 8
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
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Extrusion Velvet Sofa

Aandersson

DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Velvet Sofa

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

This sofa employs one of the simplest production processes of any structured and refined sofa in production today. The design is a result of countless compromises, experiments, and simplifications to distill the assembly to 24 steps that can be done within the course of about 6 hours by anyone that has the right tools and enthusiasm. The 26 pieces of lightweight aluminum framing can be completely taken apart and re-assembled in 30 minutes for easy moving. Parts for this difficult to assemble design cost on average 700 USD.

DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     To assemble the frame with the small brackets, first slide the bracket onto the channel of each frame piece.
1     To assemble the frame with the small brackets, first slide the bracket onto the channel of each frame piece.
2     Then, when the frame is in place, firmly tighten the bolts on the small bracket with a hex key.
2     Then, when the frame is in place, firmly tighten the bolts on the small bracket with a hex key.
3     To attach the large brackets to the frame, first slide the spring-loaded nuts in place as pictured.
3     To attach the large brackets to the frame, first slide the spring-loaded nuts in place as pictured.
4     Then arrange all 4 nuts in the channels of the frame so that they line up with the holes in the large bracket.
4     Then arrange all 4 nuts in the channels of the frame so that they line up with the holes in the large bracket.
5     Then, insert the screws through the holes in the bracket and firmly tighten with a hex key.
5     Then, insert the screws through the holes in the bracket and firmly tighten with a hex key.
6     Arrange the following pieces of the frame on a large flat space as pictured. Four 1070mm pieces, Five 730 mm pieces, and Six 300mm pieces. Take care not to scratch the frame.
6     Arrange the following pieces of the frame on a large flat space as pictured. Four 1070mm pieces, Five 730 mm pieces, and Six 300mm pieces. Take care not to scratch the frame.
7     Secure the frame with small brackets where the arrows are pointing in the picture.
7     Secure the frame with small brackets where the arrows are pointing in the picture.
8     Repeat step 7 for the other side of the frame you have laid out. Also, place 1 large bracket on each of the 300mm parts in the center of the frame (shown at the top of the picture).
8     Repeat step 7 for the other side of the frame you have laid out. Also, place 1 large bracket on each of the 300mm parts in the center of the frame (shown at the top of the picture).
9     Tilt the frame you have assembled so far on its side, and place two 1070mm pieces and one 300mm pieces next to the frame as pictured. Secure them with two small brackets (see arrows) and one large bracket (see circle).
9     Tilt the frame you have assembled so far on its side, and place two 1070mm pieces and one 300mm pieces next to the frame as pictured. Secure them with two small brackets (see arrows) and one large bracket (see circle).
10     With a hand saw, trim your MDF board so it is only 108cm (42.5in) in length.
10     With a hand saw, trim your MDF board so it is only 108cm (42.5in) in length.
11     Stand the frame on its feet and place the MDF boards in the channels in the middle of the frame.
11     Stand the frame on its feet and place the MDF boards in the channels in the middle of the frame.
12     Arrange one 730mm piece, one 790mm piece, and two 630mm pieces as pictured. The top side of the 730mm piece should be placed exactly 300mm (11.8in) from the top of this arrangement. Also, position small brackets on the frame as pictured and noted by the L diagrams.
12     Arrange one 730mm piece, one 790mm piece, and two 630mm pieces as pictured. The top side of the 730mm piece should be placed exactly 300mm (11.8in) from the top of this arrangement. Also, position small brackets on the frame as pictured and noted by the L diagrams.
13     Repeat step 12 with four new frame pieces. The positioning of the small brackets will be the only difference with this step.
13     Repeat step 12 with four new frame pieces. The positioning of the small brackets will be the only difference with this step.
14     Attach your assemblage from step 12 to the frame you have assembled so far. Slide the MDF board into the channel and tighten the small brackets (see arrows). Make sure everything lines up nicely.
14     Attach your assemblage from step 12 to the frame you have assembled so far. Slide the MDF board into the channel and tighten the small brackets (see arrows). Make sure everything lines up nicely.
15     Repeat step 14 on the other side of the frame you have assembled so far with your assemblage from step 13. Also, wedge folded pieces of paper in the frame to keep the MDF board from sliding around and sand down any raw cut edges of aluminum on the frame.
15     Repeat step 14 on the other side of the frame you have assembled so far with your assemblage from step 13. Also, wedge folded pieces of paper in the frame to keep the MDF board from sliding around and sand down any raw cut edges of aluminum on the frame.
16     On all of the 10 legs of the frame, stick felt bumpers.
16     On all of the 10 legs of the frame, stick felt bumpers.
17     Cut two pieces of velvet fabric in each of the following dimensions: 62in x 44in (158cm x 112cm), 48in x 37in (122cm x 94cm), 48in x 44in (122cm x 112cm). So, you should have cut 6 pieces in total.
17     Cut two pieces of velvet fabric in each of the following dimensions: 62in x 44in (158cm x 112cm), 48in x 37in (122cm x 94cm), 48in x 44in (122cm x 112cm). So, you should have cut 6 pieces in total.
18     Fold each piece in half, with the velvet on the inside, so two measure 31in x 44in (79cm x 112cm), two measure 24in x 37in (61cm x 94cm), and two measure 24in x 44in (61cm x 112cm). Sew, either by hand or with a machine, 1in (2.5cm) from the edge along the black line in the photograph (the folded edge of the fabric is the long side on the right).
18     Fold each piece in half, with the velvet on the inside, so two measure 31in x 44in (79cm x 112cm), two measure 24in x 37in (61cm x 94cm), and two measure 24in x 44in (61cm x 112cm). Sew, either by hand or with a machine, 1in (2.5cm) from the edge along the black line in the photograph (the folded edge of the fabric is the long side on the right).
19     Take one corner and line up the seams so that they are exactly in the middle of the corner. Sew across, as pictured, so that your sewing line is exactly 5in (13cm) long from one end of the fabric to the other.
19     Take one corner and line up the seams so that they are exactly in the middle of the corner. Sew across, as pictured, so that your sewing line is exactly 5in (13cm) long from one end of the fabric to the other.
20     Repeat this process for the remaining 3 corners and the remaining 5 pieces of fabric. To visualize how this will affect your fabric's shape before you sew, pin or clip along the sewing lines and turn the fabric inside out.
20     Repeat this process for the remaining 3 corners and the remaining 5 pieces of fabric. To visualize how this will affect your fabric's shape before you sew, pin or clip along the sewing lines and turn the fabric inside out.
21     Cut out pieces of batting that wrap fully around the length of the foam cushions, as pictured. The batting should not cover much, if any, of the shorter sides of the cushion, as pictured.
21     Cut out pieces of batting that wrap fully around the length of the foam cushions, as pictured. The batting should not cover much, if any, of the shorter sides of the cushion, as pictured.
22     Turn your sewn fabric inside out and stuff each cushion cover with the appropriately sized foam cushion wrapped in batting.
22     Turn your sewn fabric inside out and stuff each cushion cover with the appropriately sized foam cushion wrapped in batting.
23     Fold excess fabric under and staple or sew (sewing is preferred) opposite strips of Velcro to the open area of the cushion covers as pictured. Add these about every 2in (5cm).
23     Fold excess fabric under and staple or sew (sewing is preferred) opposite strips of Velcro to the open area of the cushion covers as pictured. Add these about every 2in (5cm).
24     Select a few Velcro strips to extend and attach a long piece of Velcro. Glue opposing sides of Velcro in the same length to the MDF board and attach the Velcro from the cushion to the board. This should will help keep the cushions from sliding out of place.
24     Select a few Velcro strips to extend and attach a long piece of Velcro. Glue opposing sides of Velcro in the same length to the MDF board and attach the Velcro from the cushion to the board. This should will help keep the cushions from sliding out of place.
Index
Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 30mm x 30mm
Quantity required: 6 x 1070mm length, 7 x 730mm length, 7 x 300mm length, 2 x 790mm length, 4 x 630mm length
Large T-slotted Framing Gusset Bracket
Quantity required: 3
Small T-slotted Framing L-shaped Bracket
Quantity required: 50
Felt Bumper, 3/4in (2cm)
Quantity required: 10
MDF Board, 1/4in (8mm) thick, 2ft x 4ft (61cm x 122cm)
Quantity required: 2
HD36 High Quality Cushion Foam, 5in (13cm) thickness
Quantity required: Two of each: 25in x 37in (63cm x 94cm), 18in x 30in (46cm x 76cm), 18in x 37in (46cm x 94cm)
Polyester Fiberfill Batting, 60in x 15ft (1.5m x 4.5m), 1in (2.5cm) Thick
Quantity required: 1
Hook and Loop (or Velcro), 3/4in (2cm) wide, 15ft (4.5m) long
Quantity required: 1
Velvet Upholstery Fabric, 10yd (9m), Slate Blue
Quantity required: 1
Tools
Hex Keys, M6 and M5
Hand Saw
Sewing Machine or Sewing Needles
Gutermann Extra Strong Thread
Clear 5 minute Epoxy Glue
Alternative Parts
Velvet Upholstery Fabric, 10yd (9m), More Colors
Replaces: Slate Velvet Upholstery Fabric, 10yd (9m)
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