Category: 1-2 hour assembly

Rough and Ready Chair

Tord Boontje

Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Rough and Ready Chair

Designed by Tord Boontje
Published in Fall 2019

Tord Boontje’s visually striking Rough and Ready Chair utilizes a simple engineering trick, enhancing the strength of the brittle square frame by placing diagonal wooden pieces all around it. Its aesthetics are defined by whatever wood or spare blankets you happen to have on hand. The full assembly process takes up to 2 hours to complete, and the cost of parts really relies on how much you happen to already have. The design is also relatively easy to manipulate in order to make a bench or a stool.

Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Assembly

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1     Measure and cut the following lengths of 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm) wood: 2 pieces 33.5in (847mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long.
1     Measure and cut the following lengths of 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm) wood: 2 pieces 33.5in (847mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long.
2     Lay a 33.5in (847mm) long piece vertically. Horizontally, position one 18.5in (470mm) long piece 17.5in (440mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece. Then horizontally position one 18in (454mm) long piece 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece.
2     Lay a 33.5in (847mm) long piece vertically. Horizontally, position one 18.5in (470mm) long piece 17.5in (440mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece. Then horizontally position one 18in (454mm) long piece 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece.
3     Drill and countersink one hole where each horizontal piece overlaps with the vertical piece.
3     Drill and countersink one hole where each horizontal piece overlaps with the vertical piece.
4     Twist a screw into the holes to join the two horizontal pieces to the vertical one.
4     Twist a screw into the holes to join the two horizontal pieces to the vertical one.
5     Position one 18in (460mm) long piece under both horizontal pieces. Use the end of a spare piece as a spacer, and drill + screw the 18in (460mm) long piece to the 18.5in (470mm) long piece. Make right angles between all 4 overlapping pieces, and add one more screw to complete the square. Place and screw a 21in (538mm) long diagonal piece for stability.
5     Position one 18in (460mm) long piece under both horizontal pieces. Use the end of a spare piece as a spacer, and drill + screw the 18in (460mm) long piece to the 18.5in (470mm) long piece. Make right angles between all 4 overlapping pieces, and add one more screw to complete the square. Place and screw a 21in (538mm) long diagonal piece for stability.
6     Repeat a similar process as in steps 2-5, making a structure almost mirroring the one made in steps 2-5 (the diagonal piece placement is not mirrored).
6     Repeat a similar process as in steps 2-5, making a structure almost mirroring the one made in steps 2-5 (the diagonal piece placement is not mirrored).
7     Leaving 1 width of wood space on either side of the frame, position a 15in (380mm) long piece 4.5in (116mm) from the top of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
7     Leaving 1 width of wood space on either side of the frame, position a 15in (380mm) long piece 4.5in (116mm) from the top of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
8     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and against the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
8     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and against the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
9     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and at the very front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
9     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and at the very front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
10     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18in (454mm) long pieces, and 3in (80mm) from the front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
10     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18in (454mm) long pieces, and 3in (80mm) from the front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
11     Place the 13.5in (340mm) long piece across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces and 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
11     Place the 13.5in (340mm) long piece across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces and 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
12     Place the 17.5in (440mm) long piece diagonally across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces. Make sure the frame is straight on a flat surface. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
12     Place the 17.5in (440mm) long piece diagonally across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces. Make sure the frame is straight on a flat surface. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
13     Place the 14in (350mm) long piece diagonally across both 18in (460mm) long pieces. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
13     Place the 14in (350mm) long piece diagonally across both 18in (460mm) long pieces. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
14     Measure and cut the following rectangles of 1/2in (12mm) thick plywood: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm). Have these pre-cut at the store, if possible.
14     Measure and cut the following rectangles of 1/2in (12mm) thick plywood: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm). Have these pre-cut at the store, if possible.
15     Place the 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm) piece on the seat area and drill + screw it into place with 4 screws.
15     Place the 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm) piece on the seat area and drill + screw it into place with 4 screws.
16     Place the 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm) piece on the back rest area and drill + screw it into place on the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces with 2 screws.
16     Place the 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm) piece on the back rest area and drill + screw it into place on the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces with 2 screws.
17     Not part of the original design: If you are using softwood that is relatively thin, you may need to reinforce the back area, so it doesn’t break under pressure. To avoid this, use softwood that is at least (34mm x 34mm), or use hardwood (like maple).
17     Not part of the original design: If you are using softwood that is relatively thin, you may need to reinforce the back area, so it doesn’t break under pressure. To avoid this, use softwood that is at least (34mm x 34mm), or use hardwood (like maple).
18     To make the seat have a nice angle, cut 3/4in (17mm) from the bottom of the back legs. Then fold a blanket to about 44in x 16in (1100mm x 400mm) and place it on the chair.
18     To make the seat have a nice angle, cut 3/4in (17mm) from the bottom of the back legs. Then fold a blanket to about 44in x 16in (1100mm x 400mm) and place it on the chair.
19     Wrap one side of your Hook and Loop (or Velcro), with the flat side exposed, around the top of the back rest twice.
19     Wrap one side of your Hook and Loop (or Velcro), with the flat side exposed, around the top of the back rest twice.
20     Pull tight, and insert a small piece of the opposite side of the Hook and Loop (or Velcro) underneath to secure.
20     Pull tight, and insert a small piece of the opposite side of the Hook and Loop (or Velcro) underneath to secure.
21     Repeat steps 19-20 to secure the rest of the blanket to the seat and the back rest.
21     Repeat steps 19-20 to secure the rest of the blanket to the seat and the back rest.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 32.5in (830mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long
Plywood, 1/2in (12mm) thickness
 
Quantity required: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm)
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 64
Towel or Blanket
 
Quantity required: 1
Hook and Loop (or Velcro), 1/2in (13mm) wide
Quantity required: 15ft (4.5m)
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
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Sedia 1 Chair

Enzo Mari

Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Sedia 1 Chair

Designed by Enzo Mari
Published in Fall 2019

Originally published in Enzo Mari’s Autoprogettazione, alongside a full collection of easy to assemble furniture, the Sedia 1 Chair has emerged as the most recognized piece from the collection. It requires the simple manual processes of sawing lengths of softwood and hammering the pieces together with nails. The full assembly process takes up to 2 hours to complete. Each chair costs under 25 USD on average to produce.

Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 44mm) wood: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 44mm) wood: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 194mm) wood: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long. Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 194mm) wood: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long. Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
4     Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
4     Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
5     Place one 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the left side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece.
5     Place one 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the left side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece.
6     Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
6     Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
7     Place one more 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the right side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
7     Place one more 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the right side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
8     Place one 24in (61cm) long piece aligned with the bottom and left edge of the 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
8     Place one 24in (61cm) long piece aligned with the bottom and left edge of the 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
9     Create a piece that mirrors the one you just made in steps 5-8.
9     Create a piece that mirrors the one you just made in steps 5-8.
10     Place the two pieces from step 9 on their sides, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top.
10     Place the two pieces from step 9 on their sides, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top.
11     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
11     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
12     Flip over the piece from step 11, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top, 1in (2.5cm) from the top of the chair leg.
12     Flip over the piece from step 11, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top, 1in (2.5cm) from the top of the chair leg.
13     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
13     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
14     Turn the chair on its back, and place a 19.5in (50cm) long piece across the two 24in (61cm) long pieces.
14     Turn the chair on its back, and place a 19.5in (50cm) long piece across the two 24in (61cm) long pieces.
15     Place a spare piece of wood underneath for support, align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the 24in (61cm) long piece, and hammer in 3 nails to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
15     Place a spare piece of wood underneath for support, align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the 24in (61cm) long piece, and hammer in 3 nails to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
16     Place two 20.5in (52cm) long pieces next to each other, flush with the front of the chair, and across the two 19.5in (50cm) long pieces.
16     Place two 20.5in (52cm) long pieces next to each other, flush with the front of the chair, and across the two 19.5in (50cm) long pieces.
17     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the front of the chair with 3 nails.
17     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the front of the chair with 3 nails.
18     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the back of the chair with 3 nails.
18     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the back of the chair with 3 nails.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 8in (20.5mm x 194mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 194mm wood can also be used though it is not preferred.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (20.5mm x 44mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 44mm wood can also be used though it is not preferred.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long
Nails, 1-1/2in (40mm) Length
 
Quantity required: 48
Tools
Hand Saw
Ruler or Tape Measure
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Hammer
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
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Translucent Pepper + Salt Mill

Aandersson

DIY plastic Pepper Mill designed by Aandersson
Translucent Pepper + Salt Mill

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

The ultimate form of this mill will be organic and somewhat unexpected, but thanks to the qualities of this plastic, it can be re-worked numerous times until you get the result you want. This roughly 8in (20cm) tall translucent salt + pepper mill can be assembled in a little over 1 hour with parts that cost less than 50 USD on average.

DIY plastic Pepper Mill designed by Aandersson
DIY plastic Pepper Mill designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     Crumple a few pieces of paper.
1     Crumple a few pieces of paper.
2     Wrap foil around the paper to create a shape roughly 10in (25cm) long and 1.75in (4cm) wide. The form can be as lumpy as you would like.
2     Wrap foil around the paper to create a shape roughly 10in (25cm) long and 1.75in (4cm) wide. The form can be as lumpy as you would like.
3     Place about 12oz of plastic pellets in a medium-sized bowl. If you would like color, add 1 color granule and 10 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
3     Place about 12oz of plastic pellets in a medium-sized bowl. If you would like color, add 1 color granule and 10 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
4     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
4     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
5     Flatten out into 2 squares: about 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) and 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm)
5     Flatten out into 2 squares: about 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) and 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm)
6     Add boiling water to large pan and place the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) square (with coated butcher/baking paper underneath) into the pan to re-heat the plastic.
6     Add boiling water to large pan and place the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) square (with coated butcher/baking paper underneath) into the pan to re-heat the plastic.
7     Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) plastic and roll onto the tube.
7     Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) plastic and roll onto the tube.
8     Re-heat the 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm) plastic like in step 6. Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the plastic and roll onto the tube.
8     Re-heat the 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm) plastic like in step 6. Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the plastic and roll onto the tube.
9     Push the plastic over the end of the tube as well. Make sure both plastic pieces are not touching.
9     Push the plastic over the end of the tube as well. Make sure both plastic pieces are not touching.
10     Remove all foil and paper from the two pieces. Hold one end of the larger piece in hot water until about 2.5in (6cm) is soft.
10     Remove all foil and paper from the two pieces. Hold one end of the larger piece in hot water until about 2.5in (6cm) is soft.
11     Place the mechanism inside so the end shown is not sticking out at all, and press the plastic around the mechanism so it is secure.
11     Place the mechanism inside so the end shown is not sticking out at all, and press the plastic around the mechanism so it is secure.
12     Re-heat the other end like in step 10 and make the opening a clean circle with the rod centered in the circle.
12     Re-heat the other end like in step 10 and make the opening a clean circle with the rod centered in the circle.
13     Re-heat the open end of the smaller piece.
13     Re-heat the open end of the smaller piece.
14     Firmly press the plastic around the small mechanism piece as photographed. Make sure the area near the mechanism piece is a smooth circle.
14     Firmly press the plastic around the small mechanism piece as photographed. Make sure the area near the mechanism piece is a smooth circle.
15     Fold heavy duty aluminum foil into a roughly 4in x 8in (10cm x 20cm) rectangle
15     Fold heavy duty aluminum foil into a roughly 4in x 8in (10cm x 20cm) rectangle
16     Roll it up loosely and place it inside the large plastic piece.
16     Roll it up loosely and place it inside the large plastic piece.
17     To give the exterior a smooth look, re-heat it slightly and smooth the outside by rubbing.
17     To give the exterior a smooth look, re-heat it slightly and smooth the outside by rubbing.
18     If you want a shorter mill, you can also cut the center metal piece with a metal file.
18     If you want a shorter mill, you can also cut the center metal piece with a metal file.
Index
Parts
Polydoh Moldable Plastic Pellets with Color Granules, 12oz
Quantity required: 1
CrushGrind Pepper, Salt and Spice Mill Mechanism, 195 mm (7.6 in) length
Quantity required: 1
Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil
Tools
Coated Butcher or Baking Paper
Medium-sized Pot
Large Pan
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One Gallon Floor Lamp

Aandersson

DIY floor lamp designed by Aandersson
One Gallon Floor Lamp

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

A tall grey portable canopy weight tank conceals the one gallon of sand that anchors this 6ft (1.8m) high fixture to the ground. The full assembly process takes about 2 hours to complete. Steps include filling the tank with roughly one gallon (3.7 L) of sand or small stones, wiring the lamp, and installing the globe. Only two tools are required for this process and the parts cost 100 USD on average.

DIY floor lamp designed by Aandersson
DIY floor lamp designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     Place 4 vinyl bumpers on the lower portion of the bottom of the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
1     Place 4 vinyl bumpers on the lower portion of the bottom of the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
2     Fill the Eurmax canopy feet weight with sand up to slightly above the bottom of the handle, roughly 1 gallon (3.7 liter). Screw the lid back on.
2     Fill the Eurmax canopy feet weight with sand up to slightly above the bottom of the handle, roughly 1 gallon (3.7 liter). Screw the lid back on.
3     Pull the white power cord through the polished steel tube.
3     Pull the white power cord through the polished steel tube.
4     Thread pieces onto the white power cord in the order pictured: rubber washers and hex nuts (n,w,n,n,w,n,n,w,n), neckless ball holder and insert, threaded nipple, bottom of phenolic socket.
4     Thread pieces onto the white power cord in the order pictured: rubber washers and hex nuts (n,w,n,n,w,n,n,w,n), neckless ball holder and insert, threaded nipple, bottom of phenolic socket.
5     Screw threaded nipple into bottom of phenolic socket with your hands until tight. Use cutting pliers to trim ends of the white power cord so about 1/4in (7mm) of exposed wire is showing on each end.
5     Screw threaded nipple into bottom of phenolic socket with your hands until tight. Use cutting pliers to trim ends of the white power cord so about 1/4in (7mm) of exposed wire is showing on each end.
6     On the interior piece of the phenolic socket, insert the black wire into the “hot” (brass) terminal and the white wire into the “neutral” (silver) terminal. Make sure almost no wire is exposed and tighten screws with a screwdriver. USE CAUTION...Please research how to do this exactly the right way with the socket and cord you have. All parts will be slightly different than those pictured.
6     On the interior piece of the phenolic socket, insert the black wire into the “hot” (brass) terminal and the white wire into the “neutral” (silver) terminal. Make sure almost no wire is exposed and tighten screws with a screwdriver. USE CAUTION...Please research how to do this exactly the right way with the socket and cord you have. All parts will be slightly different than those pictured.
7     Reassemble the phenolic socket and screw on the light bulb.
7     Reassemble the phenolic socket and screw on the light bulb.
8     Stabilize the ball on a box with padding. Place the socket and neckless ball holder insert inside the white ball.
8     Stabilize the ball on a box with padding. Place the socket and neckless ball holder insert inside the white ball.
9     Guide the ball holder onto the threaded nipple and with your hands arrange the hex nuts and washers as pictured on the threaded nipple. Make sure not to over-tighten hex nut against holder and ball.
9     Guide the ball holder onto the threaded nipple and with your hands arrange the hex nuts and washers as pictured on the threaded nipple. Make sure not to over-tighten hex nut against holder and ball.
10     Push the polished tube over the part you just assembled.
10     Push the polished tube over the part you just assembled.
11     Unstrap the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
11     Unstrap the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
12     Arrange the polished tube onto the Eurmax canopy feet weight with the ball oriented upwards. Strap the polished tube down firmly.
12     Arrange the polished tube onto the Eurmax canopy feet weight with the ball oriented upwards. Strap the polished tube down firmly.
13     Stack two vinyl bumpers and place them under the polished tube. Let the tube rim rest on the bumper.
13     Stack two vinyl bumpers and place them under the polished tube. Let the tube rim rest on the bumper.
Note: Some parts will need to be replaced for lighting being used outside of USA, Canada and Mexico.
Index
Parts
Eurmax Hard Plastic Canopy Feet Weight
Quantity required: 1
Polished Stainless Steel Tube, 5ft (1.5m) length, 1in (26mm) diameter
Quantity required: 1
Sand or Small Stones, roughly 1 gallon (3.7 liter)
Quantity required: 1
Self-adhesive Vinyl Bumpers, 1/2in (2.5cm) width
Quantity required: 6
Phenolic Socket with 1/8IPS Cap, E-26 (E-27 for europe) size
Quantity required: 1
White 18/2 SVT Power Cord w/ Switch, 18ft (5m) length
Quantity required: 1
Neckless Gloss Glass Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Quantity required: 1
Polished Nickel Plated Neckless Ball Holder w/ Insert for 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Quantity required: 1
Hex Nut for 1/8-27 IPS
Quantity required: 6
Threaded Hollow Nipple, 6in (15cm) length, 1/8 IPS
Quantity required: 1
Rubber Washer, 1in (2.5cm) diameter, 1/8 IPS Hole
Quantity required: 3
Light Bulb for Medium Socket, LED: 5-6 Watts
Quantity required: 1
Tools
Screwdriver, Flat Head
Cutting Pliers
Alternative Parts
Neckless Acrylic Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Replaces: Neckless Gloss Glass Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in
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