Category: 50-100 USD Average Cost

Simple Joinery Daybed

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Daybed by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Daybed

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Sharing the same design as the Simple Joinery Long Bench, the assembly steps outlined below use modified instructions from the bench assembly. Much like a cot, the daybed utilizes tension straps in lieu of cushions. The timeless visual appeal and functionality of the canvas straps combine with the efficient engineering of reinforced wood joinery in this design. As with all of the Simple Joinery designs, the challenging assembly takes about 1-2 days to complete.

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Daybed by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Daybed by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Cut wood lengths listed in the parts index.
1     Cut wood lengths listed in the parts index.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 77in (196cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 77in (196cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
8     Along the spine of another 77in (196cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
8     Along the spine of another 77in (196cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 77in (196cm) long pieces of wood.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 77in (196cm) long pieces of wood.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 39in (99cm) long piece.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 39in (99cm) long piece.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of 39in (99cm) long wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of 39in (99cm) long wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed daybed legs.
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed daybed legs.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 14in (35cm) from each end.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 14in (35cm) from each end.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 so that all straps are equally spaced, about 3/4in (2cm) apart.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 so that all straps are equally spaced, about 3/4in (2cm) apart.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the frame, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the frame.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the frame, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the frame.
35     Attach the frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the bed is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
35     Attach the frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the bed is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Poplar Wood, 1in x 4in (20.5mm x 95mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 77in (196cm) long, 4 pieces 39in (99cm) long
Smooth Planed Poplar Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 50 yards (46 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 50
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 24
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
Help Each Other

Simple Joinery Long Bench

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Bench by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Long Bench

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Because of the efficient use of wood in this design, costs to produce it are rather low. It’s generous 73in length can be made longer or shorter by changing a quick wood measurement during its production. Working with hardwood can be quite tough, though necessary in the case of this design, but poplar hardwood (or other equivalent wood on the Janka hardness test scale, like cherry) is just soft enough where cutting, sanding, and stapling are easy.

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Bench by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Bench by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Saw these lengths of wood: 4 pieces 71in (180cm) long, 8 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long.
1     Saw these lengths of wood: 4 pieces 71in (180cm) long, 8 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 71in (180cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 71in (180cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
8     Along the spine of another 71in (180cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
8     Along the spine of another 71in (180cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 71in (180cm) long pieces of wood.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 71in (180cm) long pieces of wood.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed bench legs.
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed bench legs.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 10.5in (27cm) from each end.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 10.5in (27cm) from each end.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 with 5 or 6 more straps, equally spaced.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 with 5 or 6 more straps, equally spaced.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the seat frame.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the seat frame.
35     Attach the seat frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the seat is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
35     Attach the seat frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the seat is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Poplar Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 71in (180cm) long, 8 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 32 yards (29 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 50
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 24
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
Help Each Other

Simple Joinery Side Chair

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Side Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Simple joinery techniques using glue and dowel pins are employed to assemble the efficient and sturdy frame for this chair. Heavyweight cotton tension straps across the seat and back hug your body as you sit. The entire assembly process takes about 2 days to complete.

Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly
Expand →
1     Measure and saw the following lengths of wood: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long.
1     Measure and saw the following lengths of wood: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long.
2     Mark 1/2in (1.5cm) from the end of the 106in (270cm) long piece of wood. Draw a line from that mark to the opposite edge, as photographed.
2     Mark 1/2in (1.5cm) from the end of the 106in (270cm) long piece of wood. Draw a line from that mark to the opposite edge, as photographed.
3     Saw along the line from step 1.
3     Saw along the line from step 1.
4     Along each opposite edge, measure 25.5in (65cm) and make a mark. Draw a line connecting those two points. The line should parallel the line from step 1.
4     Along each opposite edge, measure 25.5in (65cm) and make a mark. Draw a line connecting those two points. The line should parallel the line from step 1.
5     Saw along the line from step 3. Using the piece just cut, line it up along the remaining piece of wood, marking and sawing. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
5     Saw along the line from step 3. Using the piece just cut, line it up along the remaining piece of wood, marking and sawing. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
6     In one end of a piece from step 5, drill 2 pilot holes perpendicular to the angle of the wood edge. Drill larger holes inside of your pilot holes with a 1/4in drill bit.
6     In one end of a piece from step 5, drill 2 pilot holes perpendicular to the angle of the wood edge. Drill larger holes inside of your pilot holes with a 1/4in drill bit.
7     Repeat step 6 on a second pice of wood from step 5.
7     Repeat step 6 on a second pice of wood from step 5.
8     Add glue to holes and insert dowel pins until about 1/2in (1cm) of each pin is exposed. Wipe away excess glue.
8     Add glue to holes and insert dowel pins until about 1/2in (1cm) of each pin is exposed. Wipe away excess glue.
9     Along one side of a 20in (51cm) long piece of wood, make marks at 5.5in (14cm) and 13.25in (33.5cm).
9     Along one side of a 20in (51cm) long piece of wood, make marks at 5.5in (14cm) and 13.25in (33.5cm).
10     Line up your pieces from step 8 inside of your marks from step 9, as pictured. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
10     Line up your pieces from step 8 inside of your marks from step 9, as pictured. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
11     Tilt the piece from step 9 on its edge, and again mark where the dowel pins lie.
11     Tilt the piece from step 9 on its edge, and again mark where the dowel pins lie.
12     Drill pilot holes, then 1/4in holes exactly where the dowel pins lined up. The holes should only be 1/2in (1.5cm) deep. If you turn twist the drill bit around in the hole after drilling to your depth, you'll make a more generous opening for the dowel pins.
12     Drill pilot holes, then 1/4in holes exactly where the dowel pins lined up. The holes should only be 1/2in (1.5cm) deep. If you turn twist the drill bit around in the hole after drilling to your depth, you'll make a more generous opening for the dowel pins.
13     Glue inside the holes and where the wood will make contact.
13     Glue inside the holes and where the wood will make contact.
14     Connect the pieces from step 8 and step 12. To make sure the legs stay straight, clamp a piece of wood across both of them (or lay the piece flat on a table, with weight on the legs).
14     Connect the pieces from step 8 and step 12. To make sure the legs stay straight, clamp a piece of wood across both of them (or lay the piece flat on a table, with weight on the legs).
15     Repeat steps 6-14, but making a mirror image of what you produced in those steps.
15     Repeat steps 6-14, but making a mirror image of what you produced in those steps.
16     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the four 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces.
16     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the four 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces.
17     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 18.5in (47cm) long pieces, making the square form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
17     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 18.5in (47cm) long pieces, making the square form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
18     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 10.5in (26cm) long pieces, making the form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
18     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 10.5in (26cm) long pieces, making the form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
19     Mark 15.25in (38cm) up the leg on the shorter side of the arm rest, and mark 14.5in (36cm) up the leg on the longer side of the arm rest.
19     Mark 15.25in (38cm) up the leg on the shorter side of the arm rest, and mark 14.5in (36cm) up the leg on the longer side of the arm rest.
20     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces.
20     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces.
21     As in steps 10-14, align the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces under the marks from step 19 and join them to the chair legs, as photographed.
21     As in steps 10-14, align the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces under the marks from step 19 and join them to the chair legs, as photographed.
22     Repeat steps 19 and 21, joining the other two legs to the 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces. On a level surface, make the legs completely vertical and ensure all 4 legs are touching the ground.
22     Repeat steps 19 and 21, joining the other two legs to the 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces. On a level surface, make the legs completely vertical and ensure all 4 legs are touching the ground.
23     Align the piece from step 17 in the center of the chair legs. drill one hole from the square piece to each chair leg and insert a screw. Prop up the square on a piece of strap during this step.
23     Align the piece from step 17 in the center of the chair legs. drill one hole from the square piece to each chair leg and insert a screw. Prop up the square on a piece of strap during this step.
24     On the piece from step 18, make two marks: 3.5in (9cm) on one side and 3.75in (9.5cm) on the other. Make 2 more marks in a mirror image on the opposite side of the piece.
24     On the piece from step 18, make two marks: 3.5in (9cm) on one side and 3.75in (9.5cm) on the other. Make 2 more marks in a mirror image on the opposite side of the piece.
25     Drill and screw in the back rest into the long side of the arm rest. Make sure the positioning looks like the photograph before you drill.
25     Drill and screw in the back rest into the long side of the arm rest. Make sure the positioning looks like the photograph before you drill.
26     Take apart the assembly, and sand all three pieces, knocking off the edges and corners. You want the places around where the straps will like to be particularly rounded.
26     Take apart the assembly, and sand all three pieces, knocking off the edges and corners. You want the places around where the straps will like to be particularly rounded.
27     Brush on two coats of varnish.
27     Brush on two coats of varnish.
28     On the underside of your seat, fold under the end of your strap and place 6 staples through it.
28     On the underside of your seat, fold under the end of your strap and place 6 staples through it.
29     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
29     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
30     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
30     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
31     Repeat steps 28-30 with 6 more straps, equally spaced. The harder the wood, the smaller staples you will have to use. You may also have to avoid stapling into wood knots.
31     Repeat steps 28-30 with 6 more straps, equally spaced. The harder the wood, the smaller staples you will have to use. You may also have to avoid stapling into wood knots.
32     As in steps 28-30 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced evenly apart.
32     As in steps 28-30 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced evenly apart.
33     As in steps 28-30 apply straps across the back rest as photographed. After cinching, it can help to use clamps to hold the strap in place while stapling.
33     As in steps 28-30 apply straps across the back rest as photographed. After cinching, it can help to use clamps to hold the strap in place while stapling.
34     Weave and staple in webbing across the other side of the back rest, as photographed. These straps should be medium tightness, not extra tight.
34     Weave and staple in webbing across the other side of the back rest, as photographed. These straps should be medium tightness, not extra tight.
35     Re-assemble the back rest and seat. You may have to screw through the webbing, that is ok.
35     Re-assemble the back rest and seat. You may have to screw through the webbing, that is ok.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 30 yards (29 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 40
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 8
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
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Extrusion Large Vase

Aandersson

DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Large Vase

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

Hollow 80mm T-slotted framing is a natural form for a vessel. The extrusion process creates beautiful and functional grooves on the exterior as well as weight and material saving cavities on the interior. The full assembly process for the 9.5in (24cm) tall vase takes less than 1 hour to complete. Steps include applying a rubber pad and sealer to the bottom and filling the cavities with some epoxy glue. The parts cost less than 100 USD on average. While caring for your anodized (non-black) vase, clean and re-fresh water regularly to prevent oxidization.

DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     Sand around the inside of the large and medium cavities near the lip of the aluminum framing, then wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. This is so that the glue holds on tightly.
1     Sand around the inside of the large and medium cavities near the lip of the aluminum framing, then wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. This is so that the glue holds on tightly.
2     With scissors, cut a 8cm x 16cm rectangle from the rubber sheet. Then draw the pattern shown in the image according to the dimensions in the image.
2     With scissors, cut a 8cm x 16cm rectangle from the rubber sheet. Then draw the pattern shown in the image according to the dimensions in the image.
3     With scissors, cut 3mm outside of the line you drew.
3     With scissors, cut 3mm outside of the line you drew.
4     Peel the backing off of the rubber sheet and place the on the end of the aluminum framing where you sanded. Take extra care to make sure all of the large and medium cavities are fully covered and press down on the rubber to make sure they are sealed.
4     Peel the backing off of the rubber sheet and place the on the end of the aluminum framing where you sanded. Take extra care to make sure all of the large and medium cavities are fully covered and press down on the rubber to make sure they are sealed.
5     Squeeze all 3 packages of epoxy into a disposable cup.
5     Squeeze all 3 packages of epoxy into a disposable cup.
6     Mix thoroughly with a disposable mixer.
6     Mix thoroughly with a disposable mixer.
7     In the open end of the aluminum framing, pour the epoxy evenly between both large cavities and both medium cavities, including excess on the cup sides. The epoxy should be about 2cm deep in each cavity. Then tilt framing slightly in all directions to help the glue settle. Let set for 24 hours before use.
7     In the open end of the aluminum framing, pour the epoxy evenly between both large cavities and both medium cavities, including excess on the cup sides. The epoxy should be about 2cm deep in each cavity. Then tilt framing slightly in all directions to help the glue settle. Let set for 24 hours before use.
Index
Parts
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 160mm, 240mm length
Quantity required: 1
Adhesive Backed Rubber Sheet, 12in x 12in (30cm x 30cm)
Quantity required: 1
Clear Epoxy Glue, Devcon Two Ton recommended
Quantity required: 3 (75ml or more in total)
Tools
Sandpaper, 200 Grit
Scissors
Disposable Cup and Mixing Stick
Alternative Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 160mm, 240mm length
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 160mm, 240mm length
Help Each Other

Marble Tile Side Table

Aandersson

DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
Marble Tile Side Table

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

Propped up with easy to install aluminum brackets, marble tiles are used as structural pieces in this 21in (53cm) tall side table. Assembly can be completed in less than 30 minutes and the parts cost less than 100 USD on average. Steps include sanding the edges and corners of the marble and screwing the tiles into place with four brackets. Each bracket comes with padded screws so that the tiles are firmly held without risk of cracking or scratching.

DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
Assembly

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1     Place the tiles on a soft surface and sand any markings off of the rough side of the tile. Wipe with damp cloth.
1     Place the tiles on a soft surface and sand any markings off of the rough side of the tile. Wipe with damp cloth.
2     Sand edges of the tile to get rid of chipping and sharp edges. Wipe with a damp cloth.
2     Sand edges of the tile to get rid of chipping and sharp edges. Wipe with a damp cloth.
3     Arrange two brackets on one end of each long tile so that the small part of the bracket is holding the tile.
3     Arrange two brackets on one end of each long tile so that the small part of the bracket is holding the tile.
4     Tighten the brackets to the long tiles. Do not over-tighten, but make sure the brackets are very firmly gripping the tile.
4     Tighten the brackets to the long tiles. Do not over-tighten, but make sure the brackets are very firmly gripping the tile.
5     Slide the brackets attached to the long tiles firmly onto place on the short tile. Tighten the brackets to the short tile. Do not over-tighten but make sure the brackets are firmly in place.
5     Slide the brackets attached to the long tiles firmly onto place on the short tile. Tighten the brackets to the short tile. Do not over-tighten but make sure the brackets are firmly in place.
Index
Parts
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 20in (20cm x 50cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 20in (20cm x 50cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 18in (20cm x 45cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Glass Panel Bracket Clamp
Quantity required: 4
Tools
Sandpaper, 200 Grit
Screwdriver, Phillips Head
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