Category: Furniture

Two by One Chair

Ian Anderson

Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Fall 2019

Featured in the essay Make This Chair., the Two by One Chair design was used as a pretext to pursue a discussion on DIY and the modern condition. It requires a minimal amount of materials by utilizing the triangle to both enhance the structure of the chair and define its aesthetic (much in the same way Enzo Mari and Tord Boontje did with their DIY designs). The full assembly process takes about 2 hours to complete and the parts cost less than 20 USD on average.

Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 34.5in (88cm) long, 6 pieces 27.5in (70cm) long, 2 pieces 15.75in (40cm), 2 pieces 17.75in (45cm), 10 pieces 20in (50cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 34.5in (88cm) long, 6 pieces 27.5in (70cm) long, 2 pieces 15.75in (40cm), 2 pieces 17.75in (45cm), 10 pieces 20in (50cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after. If you would like your chair painted or finished, do this after step 2 and before step 3.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after. If you would like your chair painted or finished, do this after step 2 and before step 3.
3     Arrange two 27.5in (70cm) long pieces vertically, and one 17.75in (45cm) piece horizontally, as photographed.
3     Arrange two 27.5in (70cm) long pieces vertically, and one 17.75in (45cm) piece horizontally, as photographed.
4     On the left side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. Using a spare length of wood, make sure the horizontal piece extends a full width of wood beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
4     On the left side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. Using a spare length of wood, make sure the horizontal piece extends a full width of wood beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
5     Hold both pieces steady and drill two vertical holes, evenly spaced. Then countersink the holes (do this by drilling very shallow holes, the width of the screw head, in the first holes).
5     Hold both pieces steady and drill two vertical holes, evenly spaced. Then countersink the holes (do this by drilling very shallow holes, the width of the screw head, in the first holes).
6     Screw the two pieces of wood together with two screws. The screw head should be flush with the wood.
6     Screw the two pieces of wood together with two screws. The screw head should be flush with the wood.
7     On the right side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. The horizontal piece should extend 2.75in (7cm) beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
7     On the right side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. The horizontal piece should extend 2.75in (7cm) beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
8     Drill holes and screw the two pieces together, as outlined in step 5 and 6.
8     Drill holes and screw the two pieces together, as outlined in step 5 and 6.
9     Align a 15.75in (40cm) length piece of wood so so that it is resting on the top of the vertical pieces and is flush with the left piece.
9     Align a 15.75in (40cm) length piece of wood so so that it is resting on the top of the vertical pieces and is flush with the left piece.
10     Hold the wood in place, vertically drill one hole, countersink and add one screw to attach the left vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
10     Hold the wood in place, vertically drill one hole, countersink and add one screw to attach the left vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
11     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the right vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece. Make sure both form a 90 degree angle.
11     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the right vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece. Make sure both form a 90 degree angle.
12     Place one 27.5in (70cm) piece to the right of the left vertical piece. Place one 34.5in (88cm) piece to the right of the right vertical piece, as photographed.
12     Place one 27.5in (70cm) piece to the right of the left vertical piece. Place one 34.5in (88cm) piece to the right of the right vertical piece, as photographed.
13     Use the width of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, and pinch the two vertical pieces together on the bottom, making sure the ends of the angled pieces are flush with the ends of the straight pieces.
13     Use the width of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, and pinch the two vertical pieces together on the bottom, making sure the ends of the angled pieces are flush with the ends of the straight pieces.
14     Hold the wood in place, drill holes and add two screws to secure the new 27.5in (70cm) piece.
14     Hold the wood in place, drill holes and add two screws to secure the new 27.5in (70cm) piece.
15     Repeat steps 13 and 14 to secure the new 34.5in (88cm) piece.
15     Repeat steps 13 and 14 to secure the new 34.5in (88cm) piece.
16     On the angled side of where the set of vertical pieces come together, drill two holes, countersink, and add screws. Screw heads should be flush.
16     On the angled side of where the set of vertical pieces come together, drill two holes, countersink, and add screws. Screw heads should be flush.
17     Repeat step 16 on the second set of vertical pieces. Make sure the two pieces are pinched together firmly.
17     Repeat step 16 on the second set of vertical pieces. Make sure the two pieces are pinched together firmly.
18     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the angled vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
18     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the angled vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
19     Repeat steps 3 through 18, but this time making a mirror image of what you made.
19     Repeat steps 3 through 18, but this time making a mirror image of what you made.
20     Place one 20in (50cm) piece between each vertical triangle. Make sure each piece is flush with the outside of the frame.
20     Place one 20in (50cm) piece between each vertical triangle. Make sure each piece is flush with the outside of the frame.
21     Drill vertical holes, countersink, and add two screws to the 20in (50cm) piece, securing it to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
21     Drill vertical holes, countersink, and add two screws to the 20in (50cm) piece, securing it to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
22     Drill holes, countersink, and add two screws to the vertical 27.5in (70cm) piece, securing it to the 20in (50cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
22     Drill holes, countersink, and add two screws to the vertical 27.5in (70cm) piece, securing it to the 20in (50cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
23     Arrange three 20in (50cm) pieces. They should be touching the vertical 27.5in (70cm) pieces, as pictured.
23     Arrange three 20in (50cm) pieces. They should be touching the vertical 27.5in (70cm) pieces, as pictured.
24     Drill one hole, countersink, and add one screw to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat on both sides until all 20in (50cm) pieces are secure.
24     Drill one hole, countersink, and add one screw to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat on both sides until all 20in (50cm) pieces are secure.
25     Place three 20in (50cm) pieces, evenly spaced in the remaining section of the frame. Attach to the frame, as done in step 24.
25     Place three 20in (50cm) pieces, evenly spaced in the remaining section of the frame. Attach to the frame, as done in step 24.
26     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (40cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
26     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (40cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
27     Align one 20in (50cm) piece to the ends of the 34.5in (88cm) pieces, as pictured.
27     Align one 20in (50cm) piece to the ends of the 34.5in (88cm) pieces, as pictured.
28     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Be careful the screw and/or holes are not too deep. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
28     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Be careful the screw and/or holes are not too deep. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
29     Arrange a 20in (50cm) piece about 3/4in (2cm) below the one from step 27, and repeat the process in step 28.
29     Arrange a 20in (50cm) piece about 3/4in (2cm) below the one from step 27, and repeat the process in step 28.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (20mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 34mm or 19mm x 38mm wood cuts will also work.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 34.5in (88cm) long, 6 pieces 27.5in (70cm) long, 2 pieces 15.75in (40cm) long, 2 pieces 17.75in (45cm) long, 10 pieces 20in (50cm) long
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 70
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

DIY Chair

Max Lamb

DIY Chair by Max Lamb
DIY Chair

Designed by Max Lamb
Published in Fall 2019

A DIY chair’s instructions are just as significant as the design of the DIY chair itself. The DIY Chair by Max Lamb, designed in 2008, is one of the more modern DIY chairs around, mainly because of the way Max chose to communicate the process of making the chair. The simple step-by-step method that he employed meticulously controls the process of production with detailed notes. The simple but time consuming assembly process takes up to 4 hours to complete. Parts cost under 50 USD on average.

DIY Chair by Max Lamb
DIY Chair by Max Lamb
Assembly

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1     Measure a length of wood at 18.5in (47cm) long and mark a line with your square tool.
1     Measure a length of wood at 18.5in (47cm) long and mark a line with your square tool.
2     Elevate the wood from the table and saw along the line you just made. Repeat step 1 and 2 until you have 30 pieces (31 pieces if using 18mm x 34mm wood).
2     Elevate the wood from the table and saw along the line you just made. Repeat step 1 and 2 until you have 30 pieces (31 pieces if using 18mm x 34mm wood).
3     Sand the rough edges and paint the pieces at this time if you would like. If painting, apply 2-3 light coats.
3     Sand the rough edges and paint the pieces at this time if you would like. If painting, apply 2-3 light coats.
4     Place two pieces of wood at a right angle with the wide side on top of the narrow side. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
4     Place two pieces of wood at a right angle with the wide side on top of the narrow side. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
5     Use the square to confirm a 90 degree angle, hold the two pieces down, and drill two vertical holes beside each other.
5     Use the square to confirm a 90 degree angle, hold the two pieces down, and drill two vertical holes beside each other.
6     Using a larger drill bit, countersink the holes. Then screw the two pieces together with wood screws until the screw heads are flush with the wood.
6     Using a larger drill bit, countersink the holes. Then screw the two pieces together with wood screws until the screw heads are flush with the wood.
7     Position the lower piece to be vertical. Place a third piece on top of the horizontal piece, and aligned with the edge of the vertical piece. Drill and screw the pieces together.
7     Position the lower piece to be vertical. Place a third piece on top of the horizontal piece, and aligned with the edge of the vertical piece. Drill and screw the pieces together.
8     Drill and add two more screws, through the wide side of the vertical piece, forming a triangular form secured with 6 screws.
8     Drill and add two more screws, through the wide side of the vertical piece, forming a triangular form secured with 6 screws.
9     Similarly to the process in step 5, 6, 7, and 8, secure two more pieces of wood at the end of the third piece.
9     Similarly to the process in step 5, 6, 7, and 8, secure two more pieces of wood at the end of the third piece.
10     Secure a sixth piece at the ends of the two parallel horizontal pieces. It should hang over each horizontal piece by 1 full width of wood.
10     Secure a sixth piece at the ends of the two parallel horizontal pieces. It should hang over each horizontal piece by 1 full width of wood.
11     Add two more legs to the frame.
11     Add two more legs to the frame.
12     By this stage, you should have a square frame with four legs.
12     By this stage, you should have a square frame with four legs.
13     Turn the frame over, and using one length of wood as a measuring spacer, secure a piece of wood parallel to the edge of the frame. Drill and screw each end.
13     Turn the frame over, and using one length of wood as a measuring spacer, secure a piece of wood parallel to the edge of the frame. Drill and screw each end.
14     Repeat step 13 for seven (eight if using 18mm x 34mm wood) more times.
14     Repeat step 13 for seven (eight if using 18mm x 34mm wood) more times.
15     Turn the frame over. There should be a gap left open on the seat.
15     Turn the frame over. There should be a gap left open on the seat.
16     Lay out another square frame with four wood pieces. Two parallel pieces on their narrow edge, and on top of them two parallel pieces on their wide edge.
16     Lay out another square frame with four wood pieces. Two parallel pieces on their narrow edge, and on top of them two parallel pieces on their wide edge.
17     The top pieces should overlap by 1 full width of wood.
17     The top pieces should overlap by 1 full width of wood.
18     Check that all corners form right angles, and join the pieces together with eight screws.
18     Check that all corners form right angles, and join the pieces together with eight screws.
19     Slide the new frame up the old one, positioning it 4 widths of wood below the seat base. Drill and screw two screws through each wide edge of wood.
19     Slide the new frame up the old one, positioning it 4 widths of wood below the seat base. Drill and screw two screws through each wide edge of wood.
20     This will secure the new frame to the old one using 16 screws total, 4 per corner.
20     This will secure the new frame to the old one using 16 screws total, 4 per corner.
21     To assemble the backrest, make a right angle with two wood pieces, as in step 4. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
21     To assemble the backrest, make a right angle with two wood pieces, as in step 4. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
22     Drill two holes, countersink the holes, and screw the pieces together. As in step 21, place a second piece at the other end of the upper piece. Drill and screw in place.
22     Drill two holes, countersink the holes, and screw the pieces together. As in step 21, place a second piece at the other end of the upper piece. Drill and screw in place.
23     Using the narrow side of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, place another horizontal piece across the narrow edges of the lower pieces.
23     Using the narrow side of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, place another horizontal piece across the narrow edges of the lower pieces.
24     Align with the edge of the first top piece, hold the wood in place, then drill and countersink two holes on each end of the piece you placed in step 23.
24     Align with the edge of the first top piece, hold the wood in place, then drill and countersink two holes on each end of the piece you placed in step 23.
25     Screw the piece in place at both ends.
25     Screw the piece in place at both ends.
26     Repeat steps 23-25, securing two more pieces. The backrest should have four pieces running perpendicular to two pieces holding them in place.
26     Repeat steps 23-25, securing two more pieces. The backrest should have four pieces running perpendicular to two pieces holding them in place.
27     Turn the backrest on its side, and place a piece of wood beneath the lowest of the 4 slats. With 2 screws, secure it to the piece running perpendicular to the 4 slats.
27     Turn the backrest on its side, and place a piece of wood beneath the lowest of the 4 slats. With 2 screws, secure it to the piece running perpendicular to the 4 slats.
28     With 2 more screws, secure the piece you added in step 27 to the lowest of the 4 slats.
28     With 2 more screws, secure the piece you added in step 27 to the lowest of the 4 slats.
29     Repeat steps 27-28, securing another piece of wood on the other side of the backrest.
29     Repeat steps 27-28, securing another piece of wood on the other side of the backrest.
30     Turn the chair frame in its side, place a piece of wood parallel to the front leg (opposite of the leg near the seat gap). Secure to the upper frame with 2 screws.
30     Turn the chair frame in its side, place a piece of wood parallel to the front leg (opposite of the leg near the seat gap). Secure to the upper frame with 2 screws.
31     Secure to the lower part of the frame with 2 more screws. The bottom of the piece you secured should be positioned no lower than the lower part of the frame.
31     Secure to the lower part of the frame with 2 more screws. The bottom of the piece you secured should be positioned no lower than the lower part of the frame.
32     Repeat step 30-31 with another piece of wood on the opposite side of the frame.
32     Repeat step 30-31 with another piece of wood on the opposite side of the frame.
33     Slide the back of the chair in place through the seat gap. Lean the back rest as far back as it will go, and align the arms with the top of the arm supports.
33     Slide the back of the chair in place through the seat gap. Lean the back rest as far back as it will go, and align the arms with the top of the arm supports.
34     Join the backrest to the inside of the frame using 2 screws on each side.
34     Join the backrest to the inside of the frame using 2 screws on each side.
35     Join the arms to the arm supports with two screws on each side.
35     Join the arms to the arm supports with two screws on each side.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (18mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 30 pieces, 18.5in in length (31 pieces, 47cm in length, if using 18mm x 34mm wood)
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 124
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Marble Tile Side Table

Aandersson

DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
Marble Tile Side Table

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

Propped up with easy to install aluminum brackets, marble tiles are used as structural pieces in this 21in (53cm) tall side table. Assembly can be completed in less than 30 minutes and the parts cost less than 100 USD on average. Steps include sanding the edges and corners of the marble and screwing the tiles into place with four brackets. Each bracket comes with padded screws so that the tiles are firmly held without risk of cracking or scratching.

DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
Assembly

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1     Place the tiles on a soft surface and sand any markings off of the rough side of the tile. Wipe with damp cloth.
1     Place the tiles on a soft surface and sand any markings off of the rough side of the tile. Wipe with damp cloth.
2     Sand edges of the tile to get rid of chipping and sharp edges. Wipe with a damp cloth.
2     Sand edges of the tile to get rid of chipping and sharp edges. Wipe with a damp cloth.
3     Arrange two brackets on one end of each long tile so that the small part of the bracket is holding the tile.
3     Arrange two brackets on one end of each long tile so that the small part of the bracket is holding the tile.
4     Tighten the brackets to the long tiles. Do not over-tighten, but make sure the brackets are very firmly gripping the tile.
4     Tighten the brackets to the long tiles. Do not over-tighten, but make sure the brackets are very firmly gripping the tile.
5     Slide the brackets attached to the long tiles firmly onto place on the short tile. Tighten the brackets to the short tile. Do not over-tighten but make sure the brackets are firmly in place.
5     Slide the brackets attached to the long tiles firmly onto place on the short tile. Tighten the brackets to the short tile. Do not over-tighten but make sure the brackets are firmly in place.
Index
Parts
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 20in (20cm x 50cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 20in (20cm x 50cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 18in (20cm x 45cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Glass Panel Bracket Clamp
Quantity required: 4
Tools
Sandpaper, 200 Grit
Screwdriver, Phillips Head
Help Each Other

Extrusion Velvet Sofa

Aandersson

DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Velvet Sofa

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

This sofa employs one of the simplest production processes of any structured and refined sofa in production today. The design is a result of countless compromises, experiments, and simplifications to distill the assembly to 24 steps that can be done within the course of about 6 hours by anyone that has the right tools and enthusiasm. The 26 pieces of lightweight aluminum framing can be completely taken apart and re-assembled in 30 minutes for easy moving. Parts for this difficult to assemble design cost on average 700 USD.

DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     To assemble the frame with the small brackets, first slide the bracket onto the channel of each frame piece.
1     To assemble the frame with the small brackets, first slide the bracket onto the channel of each frame piece.
2     Then, when the frame is in place, firmly tighten the bolts on the small bracket with a hex key.
2     Then, when the frame is in place, firmly tighten the bolts on the small bracket with a hex key.
3     To attach the large brackets to the frame, first slide the spring-loaded nuts in place as pictured.
3     To attach the large brackets to the frame, first slide the spring-loaded nuts in place as pictured.
4     Then arrange all 4 nuts in the channels of the frame so that they line up with the holes in the large bracket.
4     Then arrange all 4 nuts in the channels of the frame so that they line up with the holes in the large bracket.
5     Then, insert the screws through the holes in the bracket and firmly tighten with a hex key.
5     Then, insert the screws through the holes in the bracket and firmly tighten with a hex key.
6     Arrange the following pieces of the frame on a large flat space as pictured. Four 1070mm pieces, Five 730 mm pieces, and Six 300mm pieces. Take care not to scratch the frame.
6     Arrange the following pieces of the frame on a large flat space as pictured. Four 1070mm pieces, Five 730 mm pieces, and Six 300mm pieces. Take care not to scratch the frame.
7     Secure the frame with small brackets where the arrows are pointing in the picture.
7     Secure the frame with small brackets where the arrows are pointing in the picture.
8     Repeat step 7 for the other side of the frame you have laid out. Also, place 1 large bracket on each of the 300mm parts in the center of the frame (shown at the top of the picture).
8     Repeat step 7 for the other side of the frame you have laid out. Also, place 1 large bracket on each of the 300mm parts in the center of the frame (shown at the top of the picture).
9     Tilt the frame you have assembled so far on its side, and place two 1070mm pieces and one 300mm pieces next to the frame as pictured. Secure them with two small brackets (see arrows) and one large bracket (see circle).
9     Tilt the frame you have assembled so far on its side, and place two 1070mm pieces and one 300mm pieces next to the frame as pictured. Secure them with two small brackets (see arrows) and one large bracket (see circle).
10     With a hand saw, trim your MDF board so it is only 108cm (42.5in) in length.
10     With a hand saw, trim your MDF board so it is only 108cm (42.5in) in length.
11     Stand the frame on its feet and place the MDF boards in the channels in the middle of the frame.
11     Stand the frame on its feet and place the MDF boards in the channels in the middle of the frame.
12     Arrange one 730mm piece, one 790mm piece, and two 630mm pieces as pictured. The top side of the 730mm piece should be placed exactly 300mm (11.8in) from the top of this arrangement. Also, position small brackets on the frame as pictured and noted by the L diagrams.
12     Arrange one 730mm piece, one 790mm piece, and two 630mm pieces as pictured. The top side of the 730mm piece should be placed exactly 300mm (11.8in) from the top of this arrangement. Also, position small brackets on the frame as pictured and noted by the L diagrams.
13     Repeat step 12 with four new frame pieces. The positioning of the small brackets will be the only difference with this step.
13     Repeat step 12 with four new frame pieces. The positioning of the small brackets will be the only difference with this step.
14     Attach your assemblage from step 12 to the frame you have assembled so far. Slide the MDF board into the channel and tighten the small brackets (see arrows). Make sure everything lines up nicely.
14     Attach your assemblage from step 12 to the frame you have assembled so far. Slide the MDF board into the channel and tighten the small brackets (see arrows). Make sure everything lines up nicely.
15     Repeat step 14 on the other side of the frame you have assembled so far with your assemblage from step 13. Also, wedge folded pieces of paper in the frame to keep the MDF board from sliding around and sand down any raw cut edges of aluminum on the frame.
15     Repeat step 14 on the other side of the frame you have assembled so far with your assemblage from step 13. Also, wedge folded pieces of paper in the frame to keep the MDF board from sliding around and sand down any raw cut edges of aluminum on the frame.
16     On all of the 10 legs of the frame, stick felt bumpers.
16     On all of the 10 legs of the frame, stick felt bumpers.
17     Cut two pieces of velvet fabric in each of the following dimensions: 62in x 44in (158cm x 112cm), 48in x 37in (122cm x 94cm), 48in x 44in (122cm x 112cm). So, you should have cut 6 pieces in total.
17     Cut two pieces of velvet fabric in each of the following dimensions: 62in x 44in (158cm x 112cm), 48in x 37in (122cm x 94cm), 48in x 44in (122cm x 112cm). So, you should have cut 6 pieces in total.
18     Fold each piece in half, with the velvet on the inside, so two measure 31in x 44in (79cm x 112cm), two measure 24in x 37in (61cm x 94cm), and two measure 24in x 44in (61cm x 112cm). Sew, either by hand or with a machine, 1in (2.5cm) from the edge along the black line in the photograph (the folded edge of the fabric is the long side on the right).
18     Fold each piece in half, with the velvet on the inside, so two measure 31in x 44in (79cm x 112cm), two measure 24in x 37in (61cm x 94cm), and two measure 24in x 44in (61cm x 112cm). Sew, either by hand or with a machine, 1in (2.5cm) from the edge along the black line in the photograph (the folded edge of the fabric is the long side on the right).
19     Take one corner and line up the seams so that they are exactly in the middle of the corner. Sew across, as pictured, so that your sewing line is exactly 5in (13cm) long from one end of the fabric to the other.
19     Take one corner and line up the seams so that they are exactly in the middle of the corner. Sew across, as pictured, so that your sewing line is exactly 5in (13cm) long from one end of the fabric to the other.
20     Repeat this process for the remaining 3 corners and the remaining 5 pieces of fabric. To visualize how this will affect your fabric's shape before you sew, pin or clip along the sewing lines and turn the fabric inside out.
20     Repeat this process for the remaining 3 corners and the remaining 5 pieces of fabric. To visualize how this will affect your fabric's shape before you sew, pin or clip along the sewing lines and turn the fabric inside out.
21     Cut out pieces of batting that wrap fully around the length of the foam cushions, as pictured. The batting should not cover much, if any, of the shorter sides of the cushion, as pictured.
21     Cut out pieces of batting that wrap fully around the length of the foam cushions, as pictured. The batting should not cover much, if any, of the shorter sides of the cushion, as pictured.
22     Turn your sewn fabric inside out and stuff each cushion cover with the appropriately sized foam cushion wrapped in batting.
22     Turn your sewn fabric inside out and stuff each cushion cover with the appropriately sized foam cushion wrapped in batting.
23     Fold excess fabric under and staple or sew (sewing is preferred) opposite strips of Velcro to the open area of the cushion covers as pictured. Add these about every 2in (5cm).
23     Fold excess fabric under and staple or sew (sewing is preferred) opposite strips of Velcro to the open area of the cushion covers as pictured. Add these about every 2in (5cm).
24     Select a few Velcro strips to extend and attach a long piece of Velcro. Glue opposing sides of Velcro in the same length to the MDF board and attach the Velcro from the cushion to the board. This should will help keep the cushions from sliding out of place.
24     Select a few Velcro strips to extend and attach a long piece of Velcro. Glue opposing sides of Velcro in the same length to the MDF board and attach the Velcro from the cushion to the board. This should will help keep the cushions from sliding out of place.
Index
Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 30mm x 30mm
Quantity required: 6 x 1070mm length, 7 x 730mm length, 7 x 300mm length, 2 x 790mm length, 4 x 630mm length
Large T-slotted Framing Gusset Bracket
Quantity required: 3
Small T-slotted Framing L-shaped Bracket
Quantity required: 50
Felt Bumper, 3/4in (2cm)
Quantity required: 10
MDF Board, 1/4in (8mm) thick, 2ft x 4ft (61cm x 122cm)
Quantity required: 2
HD36 High Quality Cushion Foam, 5in (13cm) thickness
Quantity required: Two of each: 25in x 37in (63cm x 94cm), 18in x 30in (46cm x 76cm), 18in x 37in (46cm x 94cm)
Polyester Fiberfill Batting, 60in x 15ft (1.5m x 4.5m), 1in (2.5cm) Thick
Quantity required: 1
Hook and Loop (or Velcro), 3/4in (2cm) wide, 15ft (4.5m) long
Quantity required: 1
Velvet Upholstery Fabric, 10yd (9m), Slate Blue
Quantity required: 1
Tools
Hex Keys, M6 and M5
Hand Saw
Sewing Machine or Sewing Needles
Gutermann Extra Strong Thread
Clear 5 minute Epoxy Glue
Alternative Parts
Velvet Upholstery Fabric, 10yd (9m), More Colors
Replaces: Slate Velvet Upholstery Fabric, 10yd (9m)
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