Category: Easy to assemble

Hempcrete Stool

Ian Anderson

Hempcrete DIY Stool by Ian Anderson
Hempcrete Stool

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Fall 2019

In making this stool, you will be producing an unconventional yet efficient building material with both insulation and thermal mass properties. Made up of hemp hurd, lime, and a binder material, hempcrete (as a single material) is a natural and carbon negative alternative to the abundant layers of insulation, drywall, cladding, etc… that cover the walls of our homes today. In some ways, the simple instructions for this stool are the same as instructions for building a wall of your home with this material. More on hempcrete here. The simple assembly process takes up to 1 hour to complete.

Hempcrete DIY Stool by Ian Anderson
Hempcrete DIY Stool by Ian Anderson
Assembly

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1     Cut a piece of cardboard 18.5in x 44in (47cm x 112cm) so that the corrugated lines run along the 18.5in (47cm) side. Roll up the cardboard to create a cylindrical form.
1     Cut a piece of cardboard 18.5in x 44in (47cm x 112cm) so that the corrugated lines run along the 18.5in (47cm) side. Roll up the cardboard to create a cylindrical form.
2     Tape the cardboard together, forming a cylinder. Also tape the cylinder to a wooden board (or anything sturdy you don't mind getting messy).
2     Tape the cardboard together, forming a cylinder. Also tape the cylinder to a wooden board (or anything sturdy you don't mind getting messy).
3     Use your disposable cup to add 1/2 cup of portland cement, and 1.5 cups of hydrated lime (or 1 cup of metakaolin and 1 cup of hydrated lime) to the mixing bucket. Make sure not to inhale any dust from these materials.
3     Use your disposable cup to add 1/2 cup of portland cement, and 1.5 cups of hydrated lime (or 1 cup of metakaolin and 1 cup of hydrated lime) to the mixing bucket. Make sure not to inhale any dust from these materials.
4     Use your disposable cup to add 2 cups of water to the mixing bucket.
4     Use your disposable cup to add 2 cups of water to the mixing bucket.
5     Use your disposable cup to add 7 cups of hemp hurd to the mixing bucket.
5     Use your disposable cup to add 7 cups of hemp hurd to the mixing bucket.
6     Wearing protective gloves, mix everything together in the mixing bucket.
6     Wearing protective gloves, mix everything together in the mixing bucket.
7     Transfer the mix to the cardboard cylinder and press relatively firmly, filling the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder will be hard to move when all steps are complete, so make sure it is in a location you are ok with it staying for weeks.
7     Transfer the mix to the cardboard cylinder and press relatively firmly, filling the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder will be hard to move when all steps are complete, so make sure it is in a location you are ok with it staying for weeks.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, until the cylinder is about 1/3 full.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, until the cylinder is about 1/3 full.
9     Place a smaller cardboard cylinder, about 6in (16cm) in diameter, in the center of the larger one.
9     Place a smaller cardboard cylinder, about 6in (16cm) in diameter, in the center of the larger one.
10     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, filling the gap between the smaller cylinder and the larger one.
10     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, filling the gap between the smaller cylinder and the larger one.
11     Fill the cylinder almost to the top. The last mix you make, use slightly less hemp (6 or 6.5 cups). Pat down the mix so that it is perfectly level all around the cylinder.
11     Fill the cylinder almost to the top. The last mix you make, use slightly less hemp (6 or 6.5 cups). Pat down the mix so that it is perfectly level all around the cylinder.
12     Let everything dry for 2 days, and remove the cardboard cylinders very gently. Then Let the stool dry for about 6 weeks. Over that time, the hemp dries out, and the lime slowly hardens by absorbing carbon from the air.
12     Let everything dry for 2 days, and remove the cardboard cylinders very gently. Then Let the stool dry for about 6 weeks. Over that time, the hemp dries out, and the lime slowly hardens by absorbing carbon from the air.
13     Boil some water in a saucepan and mix in some all purpose flour, making a thin papier-mâché paste. Wait for the mix to cool, and brush it all over the stool. It should dry clear and help keep the hemp from flaking off.
13     Boil some water in a saucepan and mix in some all purpose flour, making a thin papier-mâché paste. Wait for the mix to cool, and brush it all over the stool. It should dry clear and help keep the hemp from flaking off.
Index
Parts
Hemp Hurd (Shiv)
Quantity required: 2.5 Cubic Ft (roughly 17lb, 7.5kg)
Hydrated Lime
 
Quantity required: 20lb (9kg)
Portland Cement
 
Quantity required: 5lb (2.3kg)
All Purpose Flour
 
Quantity required: A small hand full
Tools
Cardboard
Packaging Tape
Mixing Bucket
Protective Plastic or Rubber Gloves
Disposable Cup
Alternative Parts
Metakaolin
*This material is much harder to obtain, but it is a by-product of some glass production, so less ecologically destructive to use than portland cement.
Replaces: Portland Cement
Quantity required: 10lb (4.5kg)
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Sedia 1 Chair

Enzo Mari

Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Sedia 1 Chair

Designed by Enzo Mari
Published in Fall 2019

Originally published in Enzo Mari’s Autoprogettazione, alongside a full collection of easy to assemble furniture, the Sedia 1 Chair has emerged as the most recognized piece from the collection. It requires the simple manual processes of sawing lengths of softwood and hammering the pieces together with nails. The full assembly process takes up to 2 hours to complete. Each chair costs under 25 USD on average to produce.

Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 44mm) wood: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 44mm) wood: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 194mm) wood: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long. Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 194mm) wood: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long. Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
4     Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
4     Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
5     Place one 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the left side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece.
5     Place one 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the left side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece.
6     Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
6     Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
7     Place one more 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the right side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
7     Place one more 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the right side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
8     Place one 24in (61cm) long piece aligned with the bottom and left edge of the 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
8     Place one 24in (61cm) long piece aligned with the bottom and left edge of the 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
9     Create a piece that mirrors the one you just made in steps 5-8.
9     Create a piece that mirrors the one you just made in steps 5-8.
10     Place the two pieces from step 9 on their sides, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top.
10     Place the two pieces from step 9 on their sides, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top.
11     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
11     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
12     Flip over the piece from step 11, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top, 1in (2.5cm) from the top of the chair leg.
12     Flip over the piece from step 11, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top, 1in (2.5cm) from the top of the chair leg.
13     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
13     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
14     Turn the chair on its back, and place a 19.5in (50cm) long piece across the two 24in (61cm) long pieces.
14     Turn the chair on its back, and place a 19.5in (50cm) long piece across the two 24in (61cm) long pieces.
15     Place a spare piece of wood underneath for support, align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the 24in (61cm) long piece, and hammer in 3 nails to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
15     Place a spare piece of wood underneath for support, align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the 24in (61cm) long piece, and hammer in 3 nails to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
16     Place two 20.5in (52cm) long pieces next to each other, flush with the front of the chair, and across the two 19.5in (50cm) long pieces.
16     Place two 20.5in (52cm) long pieces next to each other, flush with the front of the chair, and across the two 19.5in (50cm) long pieces.
17     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the front of the chair with 3 nails.
17     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the front of the chair with 3 nails.
18     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the back of the chair with 3 nails.
18     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the back of the chair with 3 nails.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 8in (20.5mm x 194mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 194mm wood can also be used though it is not preferred.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (20.5mm x 44mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 44mm wood can also be used though it is not preferred.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long
Nails, 1-1/2in (40mm) Length
 
Quantity required: 48
Tools
Hand Saw
Ruler or Tape Measure
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Hammer
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
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Extrusion Vase

Aandersson

DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Vase

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

Hollow 80mm T-slotted framing is a natural form for a vessel. The extrusion process creates naturally beautiful and functional grooves on the exterior as well as a weight and material saving cavity on the interior. The full assembly process for the 9in (23cm) tall vase takes about 30 minutes to complete. Steps include applying a rubber pad and sealer to the bottom and filling the cavity with some epoxy glue. The parts cost less than 50 USD on average. While caring for your anodized (non-black) vase, clean and re-fresh water regularly to prevent oxidization.

DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     Sand around the inside of the large cavity near the lip of the aluminum framing, then wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. This is so that the glue holds on tightly.
1     Sand around the inside of the large cavity near the lip of the aluminum framing, then wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. This is so that the glue holds on tightly.
2     With scissors, cut a 6cm x 6cm square from the rubber sheet.
2     With scissors, cut a 6cm x 6cm square from the rubber sheet.
3     Slightly trim the edges of the square you just cut.
3     Slightly trim the edges of the square you just cut.
4     Peel the backing off of the rubber square and place the square on the end of the aluminum framing where you sanded. Press down on the rubber to make sure all of the large cavity is covered and sealed.
4     Peel the backing off of the rubber square and place the square on the end of the aluminum framing where you sanded. Press down on the rubber to make sure all of the large cavity is covered and sealed.
5     Squeeze all of the epoxy into a disposable cup.
5     Squeeze all of the epoxy into a disposable cup.
6     Mix thoroughly with a disposable mixer.
6     Mix thoroughly with a disposable mixer.
7     In the open end of the aluminum framing, pour all of the epoxy into the large cavity, including excess on the cup sides. Then tilt framing slightly in all directions to help the glue settle. Let set for 24 hours before use.
7     In the open end of the aluminum framing, pour all of the epoxy into the large cavity, including excess on the cup sides. Then tilt framing slightly in all directions to help the glue settle. Let set for 24 hours before use.
Index
Parts
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 80mm, 230mm length
Quantity required: 1
Adhesive Backed Rubber Sheet, 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm)
Quantity required: 1
Clear Epoxy Glue, Devcon Two Ton recommended
Quantity required: 25ml or more
Tools
Sandpaper, 200 Grit
Scissors
Disposable Cup and Mixing Stick
Alternative Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 80mm, 230mm length
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 80mm, 230mm length
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Marble Tile Side Table

Aandersson

DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
Marble Tile Side Table

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

Propped up with easy to install aluminum brackets, marble tiles are used as structural pieces in this 21in (53cm) tall side table. Assembly can be completed in less than 30 minutes and the parts cost less than 100 USD on average. Steps include sanding the edges and corners of the marble and screwing the tiles into place with four brackets. Each bracket comes with padded screws so that the tiles are firmly held without risk of cracking or scratching.

DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
Assembly

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1     Place the tiles on a soft surface and sand any markings off of the rough side of the tile. Wipe with damp cloth.
1     Place the tiles on a soft surface and sand any markings off of the rough side of the tile. Wipe with damp cloth.
2     Sand edges of the tile to get rid of chipping and sharp edges. Wipe with a damp cloth.
2     Sand edges of the tile to get rid of chipping and sharp edges. Wipe with a damp cloth.
3     Arrange two brackets on one end of each long tile so that the small part of the bracket is holding the tile.
3     Arrange two brackets on one end of each long tile so that the small part of the bracket is holding the tile.
4     Tighten the brackets to the long tiles. Do not over-tighten, but make sure the brackets are very firmly gripping the tile.
4     Tighten the brackets to the long tiles. Do not over-tighten, but make sure the brackets are very firmly gripping the tile.
5     Slide the brackets attached to the long tiles firmly onto place on the short tile. Tighten the brackets to the short tile. Do not over-tighten but make sure the brackets are firmly in place.
5     Slide the brackets attached to the long tiles firmly onto place on the short tile. Tighten the brackets to the short tile. Do not over-tighten but make sure the brackets are firmly in place.
Index
Parts
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 20in (20cm x 50cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 20in (20cm x 50cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 18in (20cm x 45cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Glass Panel Bracket Clamp
Quantity required: 4
Tools
Sandpaper, 200 Grit
Screwdriver, Phillips Head
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Extrusion Bookends

Aandersson

DIY extrusion bookends designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Bookends

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

The lightweight and very strong framing material used in these bookends is a bit over-qualified to hold up a few books, but the beauty of the material’s form is something worth putting on display. The full assembly process for these two 7.3in x 5in (185mm x 125mm) bookends is easy and takes less than 30 minutes to complete. Steps include custom ordering parts, screwing them together, and applying some bumpers on the bottom for grip. The parts cost less than 50 USD on average.

DIY extrusion bookends designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion bookends designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     When purchasing the 100mm long frame part, have an end tap added to the left. This essentially adds threads in those holes for your screw to hold onto.
1     When purchasing the 100mm long frame part, have an end tap added to the left. This essentially adds threads in those holes for your screw to hold onto.
2     When purchasing the 185mm long frame part, have an access hole added in the middle (slot "VV") 12.5mm from the left.
2     When purchasing the 185mm long frame part, have an access hole added in the middle (slot "VV") 12.5mm from the left.
3     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Cut a strip of electrical tape and wrap it around the part of the fastener in the photo.
3     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Cut a strip of electrical tape and wrap it around the part of the fastener in the photo.
4     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Tuck in the edges of the tape.
4     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Tuck in the edges of the tape.
5     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. With scissors or an object with a point, poke through the tape where the screw's hole is.
5     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. With scissors or an object with a point, poke through the tape where the screw's hole is.
6     Loosely screw the fastener in the center hole of the 100mm long frame. Make sure to screw on the side with the end taps (threaded holes).
6     Loosely screw the fastener in the center hole of the 100mm long frame. Make sure to screw on the side with the end taps (threaded holes).
7     Align the fastener into the middle slot of the 185mm long frame.
7     Align the fastener into the middle slot of the 185mm long frame.
8     Place the Allen Key through the access hole and tighten the screw of the fastener.
8     Place the Allen Key through the access hole and tighten the screw of the fastener.
9     Make sure the sides are flush before tightening the fastener securely.
9     Make sure the sides are flush before tightening the fastener securely.
10     Place bumpers along the underside of the bookend, as photographed, and press down firmly. Repeat steps 1-10 to produce your second bookend.
10     Place bumpers along the underside of the bookend, as photographed, and press down firmly. Repeat steps 1-10 to produce your second bookend.
Index
Parts
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 100mm length, with Left End Tap Added
Quantity required: 2
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 185mm length, with Access Hole Added
Quantity required: 2
Standard End Fastener, M6
Quantity required: 2
Electrical Tape (needed for black frame only)
Quantity required: 1
Clear Self-adhesive Rubber Bumpers
Quantity required: 8
Tools
Allen Key, M6
Quantity required: 1
Alternative Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 100mm length, with Left End Tap Added
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 100mm length, with Left End Tap Added
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 185mm length, with Access Hole Added
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 185mm length, with Access Hole Added
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