Category: Furniture

Simple Joinery Daybed

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Daybed by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Daybed

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Sharing the same design as the Simple Joinery Long Bench, the assembly steps outlined below use modified instructions from the bench assembly. Much like a cot, the daybed utilizes tension straps in lieu of cushions. The timeless visual appeal and functionality of the canvas straps combine with the efficient engineering of reinforced wood joinery in this design. As with all of the Simple Joinery designs, the challenging assembly takes about 1-2 days to complete.

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Daybed by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Daybed by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Cut wood lengths listed in the parts index.
1     Cut wood lengths listed in the parts index.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 77in (196cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 77in (196cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
8     Along the spine of another 77in (196cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
8     Along the spine of another 77in (196cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 77in (196cm) long pieces of wood.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 77in (196cm) long pieces of wood.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 39in (99cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 39in (99cm) long piece.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 39in (99cm) long piece.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of 39in (99cm) long wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of 39in (99cm) long wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed daybed legs.
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed daybed legs.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 14in (35cm) from each end.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 14in (35cm) from each end.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 so that all straps are equally spaced, about 3/4in (2cm) apart.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 so that all straps are equally spaced, about 3/4in (2cm) apart.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the frame, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the frame.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the frame, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the frame.
35     Attach the frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the bed is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
35     Attach the frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the bed is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Poplar Wood, 1in x 4in (20.5mm x 95mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 77in (196cm) long, 4 pieces 39in (99cm) long
Smooth Planed Poplar Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 50 yards (46 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 50
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 24
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
Help Each Other

Simple Joinery Long Bench

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Bench by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Long Bench

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Because of the efficient use of wood in this design, costs to produce it are rather low. It’s generous 73in length can be made longer or shorter by changing a quick wood measurement during its production. Working with hardwood can be quite tough, though necessary in the case of this design, but poplar hardwood (or other equivalent wood on the Janka hardness test scale, like cherry) is just soft enough where cutting, sanding, and stapling are easy.

Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Bench by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Cotton Strap Bench by Ian Anderson
Assembly
Expand →
1     Saw these lengths of wood: 4 pieces 71in (180cm) long, 8 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long.
1     Saw these lengths of wood: 4 pieces 71in (180cm) long, 8 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
2     Saw each of the two 22in (56cm) long pieces in half at a 45 degree angle. Make sure all resulting pieces are exactly the same length.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 71in (180cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
3     A couple of inches from the end of a 71in (180cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the long edge.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Then with a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
5     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 4.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
6     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
7     Repeat steps 3-6 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
8     Along the spine of another 71in (180cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
8     Along the spine of another 71in (180cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels lie.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
9     As in step 5, drill holes along the center of the spine of the new piece of wood where the dowels line up.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
10     Glue along the spine and inside of the holes.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 71in (180cm) long pieces of wood.
11     Join the two pieces of wood, pushing the dowels inside of the holes. Wipe away excess glue. Repeat steps 3-11 with the remaining two 71in (180cm) long pieces of wood.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
12     As in step 5-6, drill 4 holes and glue in dowels at both ends of each piece from step 11.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
13     Positioning each piece from step 11 slightly inset from the edge of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, mark where the dowels touch the wood.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
14     Drill holes for the dowels in the 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood, then glue and join the pieces from step 13.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
15     Repeat step 13-14 on the other end.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece.
16     Glue and insert 2 dowel pins into both ends of a 17.5in (44cm) long piece.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
17     Align the end of the piece from step 16 on the center, and 1 width of wood from the end of a new 17.5in (44cm) long piece of wood. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
18     On each end of the piece from step 16, join a 17.5in (44cm) long piece at the points marked in step 17. Place on flat surface to dry.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
19     On two pieces from step 2, glue in dowel pins as pictured.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
20     Mark 8in (20cm) from where the two pieces of wood from step 18 meet each other, and draw a 45 degree line away from that point.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
21     Align your dowel pins from step 19 along that line.
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
22     Drill, glue and join the pieces together. The piece from step 19 should not hang off of the edge of the piece below it (the piece below it in the photo). Repeat with the other piece from step 19 (see next photo for result).
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed bench legs.
23     Repeat steps 16-22. Now you have your completed bench legs.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 10.5in (27cm) from each end.
24     On the underside of the piece completed in step 15, mark 10.5in (27cm) from each end.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
25     Line that mark up with the center of a piece completed in step 23, and drill 4 holes for your screws.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
26     Screw in 4 screws, as photographed.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
27     With 2 screws, drill and screw in the point where the 45 degree piece of the leg meets the seat frame. Secure the 3 other legs with the seat frame as in steps 25-27.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
28     Sand down the hard edges of the wood, especially along the seat frame, where the webbing will lie.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
29     Disassemble and apply two coats of varnish or paint.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
30     At one end of the seat frame, fold a piece of webbing under and staple it down with 6 staples.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
31     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
32     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 with 5 or 6 more straps, equally spaced.
33     Repeat steps 30-32 with 5 or 6 more straps, equally spaced.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the seat frame.
34     As in steps 30-32 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced about 3/4in (2cm) apart. Stop about where the legs screw into the seat frame.
35     Attach the seat frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the seat is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
35     Attach the seat frame to the legs, and continue applying horizontal webbing until the seat is done. Make sure to measure out your spacing in advance.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Poplar Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 71in (180cm) long, 8 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long, 2 pieces 22in (56cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 32 yards (29 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 50
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 24
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
Help Each Other

Simple Joinery Dining Table

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Dining Table by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Dining Table

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

The original prototype of this design was produced with 1in x 2in wood legs in an effort to push the limits on what a reinforced leg structure could do with the thinnest possible wood. Though it only tended to wobble slightly, because of the wood strength and not structure strength, it was best to upgrade to 1in x 3in legs. Thought it’s aesthetics suffered from the change, its structure triumphed – an all too common tradeoff in the design process. As with all of the Simple Joinery designs, the assembly process is difficult but rewarding.

Simple Joinery Dining Table by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Dining Table by Ian Anderson
Assembly
Expand →
1     Measure and saw the lengths of wood specified in the parts index.
1     Measure and saw the lengths of wood specified in the parts index.
2     At a 45 degree angle, saw both 47.5in (121cm) long pieces exactly in half. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
2     At a 45 degree angle, saw both 47.5in (121cm) long pieces exactly in half. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
3     About 3in (8cm) from the end of the 76.5in (194cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the edge.
3     About 3in (8cm) from the end of the 76.5in (194cm) long piece, make a mark 3/8in (1cm) from the edge.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Do not drill through the other side of the wood.
4     Drill a small pilot hole in that mark. Do not drill through the other side of the wood.
5     With a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
5     With a 1/4in drill bit, mark about 1/2in (1.5cm) up the bit with a piece of tape.
6     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 5.
6     In the spot of the pilot hole, drill a hole up to the mark made in step 5.
7     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
7     Add glue to the hole, and insert a dowel pin as far in as possible. Wipe away excess glue.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 at the other end of the piece of wood, and at points about 12in (30cm) apart along the piece of wood.
9     Line up the piece from step 8 along the spine of the long side of the plywood, with 3/4in (20.5mm) hanging over. Mark where the dowels lie.
9     Line up the piece from step 8 along the spine of the long side of the plywood, with 3/4in (20.5mm) hanging over. Mark where the dowels lie.
10     Drill holes in the plywood where your dowel pins were marked, glue in the holes and along the plywood spine, and join the pieces. It is very important that the top of the plywood and the edge of the 76.5in (194cm) long piece are flush with each other.
10     Drill holes in the plywood where your dowel pins were marked, glue in the holes and along the plywood spine, and join the pieces. It is very important that the top of the plywood and the edge of the 76.5in (194cm) long piece are flush with each other.
11     Repeat steps 3-10 joining a 33in (84cm) long piece of wood to the short side of the plywood. Make sure to glue all areas where wood contacts other wood.
11     Repeat steps 3-10 joining a 33in (84cm) long piece of wood to the short side of the plywood. Make sure to glue all areas where wood contacts other wood.
12     Repeat steps 3-11 on the remaining two sides of the plywood.
12     Repeat steps 3-11 on the remaining two sides of the plywood.
13     Mark 8in (21cm) from the end of a 28.25in (72cm) long piece of wood, at the left edge.
13     Mark 8in (21cm) from the end of a 28.25in (72cm) long piece of wood, at the left edge.
14     Join a piece of wood from step 2 at the mark you made with 2 dowel pins and glue. The sharp point of the piece from step 2 should rest at the 8in (21cm) mark.
14     Join a piece of wood from step 2 at the mark you made with 2 dowel pins and glue. The sharp point of the piece from step 2 should rest at the 8in (21cm) mark.
15     Mark 10.5in (27cm) from the other end of the 28.25in (72cm) long piece of wood.
15     Mark 10.5in (27cm) from the other end of the 28.25in (72cm) long piece of wood.
16     Align the bottom of a 14in (35.5cm) long piece of wood at that mark at a 45 degree angle. Join the two pieces with 2 dowel pins and glue.
16     Align the bottom of a 14in (35.5cm) long piece of wood at that mark at a 45 degree angle. Join the two pieces with 2 dowel pins and glue.
17     Repeating the same method as steps 13-16, join a few more pieces (the assembly on the left is the new one).
17     Repeating the same method as steps 13-16, join a few more pieces (the assembly on the left is the new one).
18     Orient one piece from step 17 vertically, and attach a 33in (84cm) long piece to it with glue and two screws placed not more than 1.5in (4cm) from the end of the vertical piece. Be sure to drill pilot holes and countersink holes for the screw head.
18     Orient one piece from step 17 vertically, and attach a 33in (84cm) long piece to it with glue and two screws placed not more than 1.5in (4cm) from the end of the vertical piece. Be sure to drill pilot holes and countersink holes for the screw head.
19     Repeat step 18, joining the other piece from step 17 to the other side of the 33in (84cm) long piece. Then, drill pilot holes, glue and screw together the two pieces that cross the 33in (84cm) long piece (as pictured).
19     Repeat step 18, joining the other piece from step 17 to the other side of the 33in (84cm) long piece. Then, drill pilot holes, glue and screw together the two pieces that cross the 33in (84cm) long piece (as pictured).
20     Drilling 2 pilot holes and securing with 2 screws, attach the 49in (125cm) long piece at a 90 degree angle to the 33in (84cm) long piece from step 19.
20     Drilling 2 pilot holes and securing with 2 screws, attach the 49in (125cm) long piece at a 90 degree angle to the 33in (84cm) long piece from step 19.
21     Repeat steps 13-19 to make an extra pair of table legs, and attach them to the opposite end of the 49in (125cm) long piece, as in step 20.
21     Repeat steps 13-19 to make an extra pair of table legs, and attach them to the opposite end of the 49in (125cm) long piece, as in step 20.
22     Glue and screw each 7in (18cm) long piece to the ends of each 14in (35.5cm) long piece at a 45 degree angle. Again, drill pilot and countersink holes for the screw.
22     Glue and screw each 7in (18cm) long piece to the ends of each 14in (35.5cm) long piece at a 45 degree angle. Again, drill pilot and countersink holes for the screw.
23     Align the structure from steps 13-22 centered on the underside of your table top. With 2 screws, as photographed, attach each 7in (18cm) long piece to the table top.
23     Align the structure from steps 13-22 centered on the underside of your table top. With 2 screws, as photographed, attach each 7in (18cm) long piece to the table top.
24     With 2 screws, as photographed, attach each table leg to the table top.
24     With 2 screws, as photographed, attach each table leg to the table top.
25     Sand the whole table, rounding the edges.
25     Sand the whole table, rounding the edges.
26     Apply 2-3 coats of varnish to the entire table.
26     Apply 2-3 coats of varnish to the entire table.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, Ash, and Oak, but you will want it to match your plywood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 76.5in (194cm) long, 2 pieces 33in (84cm) long, 4 pieces 28.25in (72cm) long, 4 pieces 14in (35.5cm) long, 2 pieces 47.5in (121cm) long, 2 pieces 31.5in (79cm) long, 1 piece 49in (125cm) long
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, 1in x 2in (20.5mm x 34mm)
*Match the style of wood above.
 
Quantity required: 4 pieces 7in (18cm) long
Hard Wood Plywood, 3/4in (18mm or 25mm) thickness
*Any popular hardwood plywood can be used, but you will want the exterior laminate to match your 1in x 3in Hard Wood. Have your plywood cut to the size below at any lumber or hardware store before bringing home.
 
Quantity required: 1 piece 75in (190cm) x 33in (84cm)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 40
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/2 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 28
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Simple Joinery Scrap Wood Stool

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Poplar Stool by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Scrap Wood Stool

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

This stool, a collage of scrap wood made utilizing modern versions of joinery methods like those used by John Surlis for his Leitrim Stool, is quite easy on the eyes because of its organic form. Tools like the quick bar clamp and the hand block planer are fun to use, making the 1 full day assembly time fly by.

Simple Joinery Poplar Stool by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Poplar Stool by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Propping up one side on a piece of wood, saw lengths of wood for the following steps.
1     Propping up one side on a piece of wood, saw lengths of wood for the following steps.
2     Glue pieces of wood together to make a roughly 18in x 1.5in x 1.5in (46cm x 4cm x 4cm) piece.
2     Glue pieces of wood together to make a roughly 18in x 1.5in x 1.5in (46cm x 4cm x 4cm) piece.
3     Clamp the glued pieces together tightly and let dry. Repeat steps 2-3 two more times, to make 3 total legs.
3     Clamp the glued pieces together tightly and let dry. Repeat steps 2-3 two more times, to make 3 total legs.
4     Glue and clamp wood pieces together to make a roughly 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
4     Glue and clamp wood pieces together to make a roughly 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
5     Use the planer tool to shave the edges off of the legs, and shave one end of each leg down to a 1.25in (3cm) diameter. This measurement should match the size of the drill bit you are using.
5     Use the planer tool to shave the edges off of the legs, and shave one end of each leg down to a 1.25in (3cm) diameter. This measurement should match the size of the drill bit you are using.
6     Saw each corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
6     Saw each corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
7     Further saw each existing corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece to make a circular form.
7     Further saw each existing corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece to make a circular form.
8     Use caution with this step. With two firm hands on the drill, drill 3 holes through the top of the seat and out the bottom of the seat. Each hole angled outward.
8     Use caution with this step. With two firm hands on the drill, drill 3 holes through the top of the seat and out the bottom of the seat. Each hole angled outward.
9     Apply glue to the legs and twist through the seat holes until the leg emerges out the other end.
9     Apply glue to the legs and twist through the seat holes until the leg emerges out the other end.
10     Saw away the excess of the legs.
10     Saw away the excess of the legs.
11     Sand the rough edges and sand away the excess glue.
11     Sand the rough edges and sand away the excess glue.
12     Brush on two coats of varnish.
12     Brush on two coats of varnish.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, Various Sizes
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended.
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish
Quantity required: 1/2 Quart
Tools
Wood Glue
Quick Bar Clamp, Medium/Heavy Duty
Hand Block Planer
Hand Saw
Power Drill
1 1/4in Spade Drill Bit
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Simple Joinery Side Chair

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Side Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

Simple joinery techniques using glue and dowel pins are employed to assemble the efficient and sturdy frame for this chair. Heavyweight cotton tension straps across the seat and back hug your body as you sit. The entire assembly process takes about 2 days to complete.

Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Side Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Measure and saw the following lengths of wood: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long.
1     Measure and saw the following lengths of wood: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long.
2     Mark 1/2in (1.5cm) from the end of the 106in (270cm) long piece of wood. Draw a line from that mark to the opposite edge, as photographed.
2     Mark 1/2in (1.5cm) from the end of the 106in (270cm) long piece of wood. Draw a line from that mark to the opposite edge, as photographed.
3     Saw along the line from step 1.
3     Saw along the line from step 1.
4     Along each opposite edge, measure 25.5in (65cm) and make a mark. Draw a line connecting those two points. The line should parallel the line from step 1.
4     Along each opposite edge, measure 25.5in (65cm) and make a mark. Draw a line connecting those two points. The line should parallel the line from step 1.
5     Saw along the line from step 3. Using the piece just cut, line it up along the remaining piece of wood, marking and sawing. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
5     Saw along the line from step 3. Using the piece just cut, line it up along the remaining piece of wood, marking and sawing. You should end up with 4 identical pieces.
6     In one end of a piece from step 5, drill 2 pilot holes perpendicular to the angle of the wood edge. Drill larger holes inside of your pilot holes with a 1/4in drill bit.
6     In one end of a piece from step 5, drill 2 pilot holes perpendicular to the angle of the wood edge. Drill larger holes inside of your pilot holes with a 1/4in drill bit.
7     Repeat step 6 on a second pice of wood from step 5.
7     Repeat step 6 on a second pice of wood from step 5.
8     Add glue to holes and insert dowel pins until about 1/2in (1cm) of each pin is exposed. Wipe away excess glue.
8     Add glue to holes and insert dowel pins until about 1/2in (1cm) of each pin is exposed. Wipe away excess glue.
9     Along one side of a 20in (51cm) long piece of wood, make marks at 5.5in (14cm) and 13.25in (33.5cm).
9     Along one side of a 20in (51cm) long piece of wood, make marks at 5.5in (14cm) and 13.25in (33.5cm).
10     Line up your pieces from step 8 inside of your marks from step 9, as pictured. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
10     Line up your pieces from step 8 inside of your marks from step 9, as pictured. Mark where the dowel pins lie.
11     Tilt the piece from step 9 on its edge, and again mark where the dowel pins lie.
11     Tilt the piece from step 9 on its edge, and again mark where the dowel pins lie.
12     Drill pilot holes, then 1/4in holes exactly where the dowel pins lined up. The holes should only be 1/2in (1.5cm) deep. If you turn twist the drill bit around in the hole after drilling to your depth, you'll make a more generous opening for the dowel pins.
12     Drill pilot holes, then 1/4in holes exactly where the dowel pins lined up. The holes should only be 1/2in (1.5cm) deep. If you turn twist the drill bit around in the hole after drilling to your depth, you'll make a more generous opening for the dowel pins.
13     Glue inside the holes and where the wood will make contact.
13     Glue inside the holes and where the wood will make contact.
14     Connect the pieces from step 8 and step 12. To make sure the legs stay straight, clamp a piece of wood across both of them (or lay the piece flat on a table, with weight on the legs).
14     Connect the pieces from step 8 and step 12. To make sure the legs stay straight, clamp a piece of wood across both of them (or lay the piece flat on a table, with weight on the legs).
15     Repeat steps 6-14, but making a mirror image of what you produced in those steps.
15     Repeat steps 6-14, but making a mirror image of what you produced in those steps.
16     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the four 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces.
16     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the four 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces.
17     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 18.5in (47cm) long pieces, making the square form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
17     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 18.5in (47cm) long pieces, making the square form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
18     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 10.5in (26cm) long pieces, making the form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
18     Using the joining method from steps 10-14, connect two 17.5in (44.5cm) long pieces to two 10.5in (26cm) long pieces, making the form photographed. Angles should be 90 degrees.
19     Mark 15.25in (38cm) up the leg on the shorter side of the arm rest, and mark 14.5in (36cm) up the leg on the longer side of the arm rest.
19     Mark 15.25in (38cm) up the leg on the shorter side of the arm rest, and mark 14.5in (36cm) up the leg on the longer side of the arm rest.
20     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces.
20     As in steps 6-8, glue two dowel pins into each end of the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces.
21     As in steps 10-14, align the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces under the marks from step 19 and join them to the chair legs, as photographed.
21     As in steps 10-14, align the two 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces under the marks from step 19 and join them to the chair legs, as photographed.
22     Repeat steps 19 and 21, joining the other two legs to the 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces. On a level surface, make the legs completely vertical and ensure all 4 legs are touching the ground.
22     Repeat steps 19 and 21, joining the other two legs to the 19.25in (48.5cm) long pieces. On a level surface, make the legs completely vertical and ensure all 4 legs are touching the ground.
23     Align the piece from step 17 in the center of the chair legs. drill one hole from the square piece to each chair leg and insert a screw. Prop up the square on a piece of strap during this step.
23     Align the piece from step 17 in the center of the chair legs. drill one hole from the square piece to each chair leg and insert a screw. Prop up the square on a piece of strap during this step.
24     On the piece from step 18, make two marks: 3.5in (9cm) on one side and 3.75in (9.5cm) on the other. Make 2 more marks in a mirror image on the opposite side of the piece.
24     On the piece from step 18, make two marks: 3.5in (9cm) on one side and 3.75in (9.5cm) on the other. Make 2 more marks in a mirror image on the opposite side of the piece.
25     Drill and screw in the back rest into the long side of the arm rest. Make sure the positioning looks like the photograph before you drill.
25     Drill and screw in the back rest into the long side of the arm rest. Make sure the positioning looks like the photograph before you drill.
26     Take apart the assembly, and sand all three pieces, knocking off the edges and corners. You want the places around where the straps will like to be particularly rounded.
26     Take apart the assembly, and sand all three pieces, knocking off the edges and corners. You want the places around where the straps will like to be particularly rounded.
27     Brush on two coats of varnish.
27     Brush on two coats of varnish.
28     On the underside of your seat, fold under the end of your strap and place 6 staples through it.
28     On the underside of your seat, fold under the end of your strap and place 6 staples through it.
29     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
29     Stretch the webbing over the frame as tight as possible by pulling with one hand and cinching over the edge of the frame with the other. Hold the webbing tight with one hand, and apply 3 staples with the other hand.
30     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
30     Cut the webbing about 1in (3cm) from your 3 staples, tuck the excess webbing under, and apply 3 more staples on top.
31     Repeat steps 28-30 with 6 more straps, equally spaced. The harder the wood, the smaller staples you will have to use. You may also have to avoid stapling into wood knots.
31     Repeat steps 28-30 with 6 more straps, equally spaced. The harder the wood, the smaller staples you will have to use. You may also have to avoid stapling into wood knots.
32     As in steps 28-30 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced evenly apart.
32     As in steps 28-30 apply and weave in webbing along the width of the seat, spaced evenly apart.
33     As in steps 28-30 apply straps across the back rest as photographed. After cinching, it can help to use clamps to hold the strap in place while stapling.
33     As in steps 28-30 apply straps across the back rest as photographed. After cinching, it can help to use clamps to hold the strap in place while stapling.
34     Weave and staple in webbing across the other side of the back rest, as photographed. These straps should be medium tightness, not extra tight.
34     Weave and staple in webbing across the other side of the back rest, as photographed. These straps should be medium tightness, not extra tight.
35     Re-assemble the back rest and seat. You may have to screw through the webbing, that is ok.
35     Re-assemble the back rest and seat. You may have to screw through the webbing, that is ok.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, 1in x 3in (20.5mm x 70mm)
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal.
 
Quantity required: 1 pieces 106in (270cm) long, 2 pieces 20in (51cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44.5cm) long, 2 pieces 10.5in (26cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long, 2 pieces 19.25in (48.5cm) long
Heavyweight Cotton Webbing, 2in (50mm) width, 2mm thick
Quantity required: 30 yards (29 meters)
1/4in Dowel Pins
Quantity required: 40
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish (or paint)
Quantity required: 1/4 Quart
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 8
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Wood Glue
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Heavy Duty Upholstery Staple Gun w/ Staples
Help Each Other

Rough and Ready Chair

Tord Boontje

Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Rough and Ready Chair

Designed by Tord Boontje
Published in Fall 2019

Tord Boontje’s visually striking Rough and Ready Chair utilizes a simple engineering trick, enhancing the strength of the brittle square frame by placing diagonal wooden pieces all around it. Its aesthetics are defined by whatever wood or spare blankets you happen to have on hand. The full assembly process takes up to 2 hours to complete, and the cost of parts really relies on how much you happen to already have. The design is also relatively easy to manipulate in order to make a bench or a stool.

Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Assembly

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1     Measure and cut the following lengths of 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm) wood: 2 pieces 33.5in (847mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long.
1     Measure and cut the following lengths of 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm) wood: 2 pieces 33.5in (847mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long.
2     Lay a 33.5in (847mm) long piece vertically. Horizontally, position one 18.5in (470mm) long piece 17.5in (440mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece. Then horizontally position one 18in (454mm) long piece 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece.
2     Lay a 33.5in (847mm) long piece vertically. Horizontally, position one 18.5in (470mm) long piece 17.5in (440mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece. Then horizontally position one 18in (454mm) long piece 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece.
3     Drill and countersink one hole where each horizontal piece overlaps with the vertical piece.
3     Drill and countersink one hole where each horizontal piece overlaps with the vertical piece.
4     Twist a screw into the holes to join the two horizontal pieces to the vertical one.
4     Twist a screw into the holes to join the two horizontal pieces to the vertical one.
5     Position one 18in (460mm) long piece under both horizontal pieces. Use the end of a spare piece as a spacer, and drill + screw the 18in (460mm) long piece to the 18.5in (470mm) long piece. Make right angles between all 4 overlapping pieces, and add one more screw to complete the square. Place and screw a 21in (538mm) long diagonal piece for stability.
5     Position one 18in (460mm) long piece under both horizontal pieces. Use the end of a spare piece as a spacer, and drill + screw the 18in (460mm) long piece to the 18.5in (470mm) long piece. Make right angles between all 4 overlapping pieces, and add one more screw to complete the square. Place and screw a 21in (538mm) long diagonal piece for stability.
6     Repeat a similar process as in steps 2-5, making a structure almost mirroring the one made in steps 2-5 (the diagonal piece placement is not mirrored).
6     Repeat a similar process as in steps 2-5, making a structure almost mirroring the one made in steps 2-5 (the diagonal piece placement is not mirrored).
7     Leaving 1 width of wood space on either side of the frame, position a 15in (380mm) long piece 4.5in (116mm) from the top of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
7     Leaving 1 width of wood space on either side of the frame, position a 15in (380mm) long piece 4.5in (116mm) from the top of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
8     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and against the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
8     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and against the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
9     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and at the very front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
9     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and at the very front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
10     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18in (454mm) long pieces, and 3in (80mm) from the front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
10     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18in (454mm) long pieces, and 3in (80mm) from the front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
11     Place the 13.5in (340mm) long piece across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces and 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
11     Place the 13.5in (340mm) long piece across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces and 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
12     Place the 17.5in (440mm) long piece diagonally across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces. Make sure the frame is straight on a flat surface. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
12     Place the 17.5in (440mm) long piece diagonally across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces. Make sure the frame is straight on a flat surface. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
13     Place the 14in (350mm) long piece diagonally across both 18in (460mm) long pieces. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
13     Place the 14in (350mm) long piece diagonally across both 18in (460mm) long pieces. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
14     Measure and cut the following rectangles of 1/2in (12mm) thick plywood: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm). Have these pre-cut at the store, if possible.
14     Measure and cut the following rectangles of 1/2in (12mm) thick plywood: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm). Have these pre-cut at the store, if possible.
15     Place the 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm) piece on the seat area and drill + screw it into place with 4 screws.
15     Place the 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm) piece on the seat area and drill + screw it into place with 4 screws.
16     Place the 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm) piece on the back rest area and drill + screw it into place on the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces with 2 screws.
16     Place the 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm) piece on the back rest area and drill + screw it into place on the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces with 2 screws.
17     Not part of the original design: If you are using softwood that is relatively thin, you may need to reinforce the back area, so it doesn’t break under pressure. To avoid this, use softwood that is at least (34mm x 34mm), or use hardwood (like maple).
17     Not part of the original design: If you are using softwood that is relatively thin, you may need to reinforce the back area, so it doesn’t break under pressure. To avoid this, use softwood that is at least (34mm x 34mm), or use hardwood (like maple).
18     To make the seat have a nice angle, cut 3/4in (17mm) from the bottom of the back legs. Then fold a blanket to about 44in x 16in (1100mm x 400mm) and place it on the chair.
18     To make the seat have a nice angle, cut 3/4in (17mm) from the bottom of the back legs. Then fold a blanket to about 44in x 16in (1100mm x 400mm) and place it on the chair.
19     Wrap one side of your Hook and Loop (or Velcro), with the flat side exposed, around the top of the back rest twice.
19     Wrap one side of your Hook and Loop (or Velcro), with the flat side exposed, around the top of the back rest twice.
20     Pull tight, and insert a small piece of the opposite side of the Hook and Loop (or Velcro) underneath to secure.
20     Pull tight, and insert a small piece of the opposite side of the Hook and Loop (or Velcro) underneath to secure.
21     Repeat steps 19-20 to secure the rest of the blanket to the seat and the back rest.
21     Repeat steps 19-20 to secure the rest of the blanket to the seat and the back rest.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 32.5in (830mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long
Plywood, 1/2in (12mm) thickness
 
Quantity required: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm)
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 64
Towel or Blanket
 
Quantity required: 1
Hook and Loop (or Velcro), 1/2in (13mm) wide
Quantity required: 15ft (4.5m)
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Help Each Other

Hempcrete Stool

Ian Anderson

Hempcrete DIY Stool by Ian Anderson
Hempcrete Stool

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Fall 2019

In making this stool, you will be producing an unconventional yet efficient building material with both insulation and thermal mass properties. Made up of hemp hurd, lime, and a binder material, hempcrete (as a single material) is a natural and carbon negative alternative to the abundant layers of insulation, drywall, cladding, etc… that cover the walls of our homes today. In some ways, the simple instructions for this stool are the same as instructions for building a wall of your home with this material. More on hempcrete here. The simple assembly process takes up to 1 hour to complete.

Hempcrete DIY Stool by Ian Anderson
Hempcrete DIY Stool by Ian Anderson
Assembly

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1     Cut a piece of cardboard 18.5in x 44in (47cm x 112cm) so that the corrugated lines run along the 18.5in (47cm) side. Roll up the cardboard to create a cylindrical form.
1     Cut a piece of cardboard 18.5in x 44in (47cm x 112cm) so that the corrugated lines run along the 18.5in (47cm) side. Roll up the cardboard to create a cylindrical form.
2     Tape the cardboard together, forming a cylinder. Also tape the cylinder to a wooden board (or anything sturdy you don't mind getting messy).
2     Tape the cardboard together, forming a cylinder. Also tape the cylinder to a wooden board (or anything sturdy you don't mind getting messy).
3     Use your disposable cup to add 1/2 cup of portland cement, and 1.5 cups of hydrated lime (or 1 cup of metakaolin and 1 cup of hydrated lime) to the mixing bucket. Make sure not to inhale any dust from these materials.
3     Use your disposable cup to add 1/2 cup of portland cement, and 1.5 cups of hydrated lime (or 1 cup of metakaolin and 1 cup of hydrated lime) to the mixing bucket. Make sure not to inhale any dust from these materials.
4     Use your disposable cup to add 2 cups of water to the mixing bucket.
4     Use your disposable cup to add 2 cups of water to the mixing bucket.
5     Use your disposable cup to add 7 cups of hemp hurd to the mixing bucket.
5     Use your disposable cup to add 7 cups of hemp hurd to the mixing bucket.
6     Wearing protective gloves, mix everything together in the mixing bucket.
6     Wearing protective gloves, mix everything together in the mixing bucket.
7     Transfer the mix to the cardboard cylinder and press relatively firmly, filling the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder will be hard to move when all steps are complete, so make sure it is in a location you are ok with it staying for weeks.
7     Transfer the mix to the cardboard cylinder and press relatively firmly, filling the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder will be hard to move when all steps are complete, so make sure it is in a location you are ok with it staying for weeks.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, until the cylinder is about 1/3 full.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, until the cylinder is about 1/3 full.
9     Place a smaller cardboard cylinder, about 6in (16cm) in diameter, in the center of the larger one.
9     Place a smaller cardboard cylinder, about 6in (16cm) in diameter, in the center of the larger one.
10     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, filling the gap between the smaller cylinder and the larger one.
10     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, filling the gap between the smaller cylinder and the larger one.
11     Fill the cylinder almost to the top. The last mix you make, use slightly less hemp (6 or 6.5 cups). Pat down the mix so that it is perfectly level all around the cylinder.
11     Fill the cylinder almost to the top. The last mix you make, use slightly less hemp (6 or 6.5 cups). Pat down the mix so that it is perfectly level all around the cylinder.
12     Let everything dry for 2 days, and remove the cardboard cylinders very gently. Then Let the stool dry for about 6 weeks. Over that time, the hemp dries out, and the lime slowly hardens by absorbing carbon from the air.
12     Let everything dry for 2 days, and remove the cardboard cylinders very gently. Then Let the stool dry for about 6 weeks. Over that time, the hemp dries out, and the lime slowly hardens by absorbing carbon from the air.
13     Boil some water in a saucepan and mix in some all purpose flour, making a thin papier-mâché paste. Wait for the mix to cool, and brush it all over the stool. It should dry clear and help keep the hemp from flaking off.
13     Boil some water in a saucepan and mix in some all purpose flour, making a thin papier-mâché paste. Wait for the mix to cool, and brush it all over the stool. It should dry clear and help keep the hemp from flaking off.
Index
Parts
Hemp Hurd (Shiv)
Quantity required: 2.5 Cubic Ft (roughly 17lb, 7.5kg)
Hydrated Lime
 
Quantity required: 20lb (9kg)
Portland Cement
 
Quantity required: 5lb (2.3kg)
All Purpose Flour
 
Quantity required: A small hand full
Tools
Cardboard
Packaging Tape
Mixing Bucket
Protective Plastic or Rubber Gloves
Disposable Cup
Alternative Parts
Metakaolin
*This material is much harder to obtain, but it is a by-product of some glass production, so less ecologically destructive to use than portland cement.
Replaces: Portland Cement
Quantity required: 10lb (4.5kg)
Help Each Other

Sedia 1 Chair

Enzo Mari

Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Sedia 1 Chair

Designed by Enzo Mari
Published in Fall 2019

Originally published in Enzo Mari’s Autoprogettazione, alongside a full collection of easy to assemble furniture, the Sedia 1 Chair has emerged as the most recognized piece from the collection. It requires the simple manual processes of sawing lengths of softwood and hammering the pieces together with nails. The full assembly process takes up to 2 hours to complete. Each chair costs under 25 USD on average to produce.

Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 44mm) wood: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 44mm) wood: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 194mm) wood: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long. Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 194mm) wood: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long. Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
4     Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
4     Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
5     Place one 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the left side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece.
5     Place one 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the left side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece.
6     Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
6     Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
7     Place one more 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the right side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
7     Place one more 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the right side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
8     Place one 24in (61cm) long piece aligned with the bottom and left edge of the 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
8     Place one 24in (61cm) long piece aligned with the bottom and left edge of the 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
9     Create a piece that mirrors the one you just made in steps 5-8.
9     Create a piece that mirrors the one you just made in steps 5-8.
10     Place the two pieces from step 9 on their sides, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top.
10     Place the two pieces from step 9 on their sides, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top.
11     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
11     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
12     Flip over the piece from step 11, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top, 1in (2.5cm) from the top of the chair leg.
12     Flip over the piece from step 11, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top, 1in (2.5cm) from the top of the chair leg.
13     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
13     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
14     Turn the chair on its back, and place a 19.5in (50cm) long piece across the two 24in (61cm) long pieces.
14     Turn the chair on its back, and place a 19.5in (50cm) long piece across the two 24in (61cm) long pieces.
15     Place a spare piece of wood underneath for support, align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the 24in (61cm) long piece, and hammer in 3 nails to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
15     Place a spare piece of wood underneath for support, align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the 24in (61cm) long piece, and hammer in 3 nails to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
16     Place two 20.5in (52cm) long pieces next to each other, flush with the front of the chair, and across the two 19.5in (50cm) long pieces.
16     Place two 20.5in (52cm) long pieces next to each other, flush with the front of the chair, and across the two 19.5in (50cm) long pieces.
17     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the front of the chair with 3 nails.
17     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the front of the chair with 3 nails.
18     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the back of the chair with 3 nails.
18     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the back of the chair with 3 nails.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 8in (20.5mm x 194mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 194mm wood can also be used though it is not preferred.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (20.5mm x 44mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 44mm wood can also be used though it is not preferred.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long
Nails, 1-1/2in (40mm) Length
 
Quantity required: 48
Tools
Hand Saw
Ruler or Tape Measure
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Hammer
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Crate Chair

Gerrit Rietveld

Crate Chair DIY by Gerrit Rietveld
Crate Chair

Designed by Gerrit Rietveld
Published in Fall 2019

Rietveld’s Crate Chair (1934) was designed with a particular interest in using recycled materials. Building instructions for most of Rietveld’s designs have since been published in the 1986 book How to Construct Rietveld Furniture. Because this chair was originally produced, and it was not designed specifically as a DIY chair, it does require quite a lot of wood and more time spent with a saw. Assembly time is about 3 hours and the average cost is under 50 USD.

Crate Chair DIY by Gerrit Rietveld
Crate Chair DIY by Gerrit Rietveld
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 3 pieces 19.75in (500mm) long, 6 pieces 15.75in (400mm) long, 4 pieces 24.25in (620mm) long, 1 piece 17in (450mm) long, 1 piece 18.5in (491mm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 3 pieces 19.75in (500mm) long, 6 pieces 15.75in (400mm) long, 4 pieces 24.25in (620mm) long, 1 piece 17in (450mm) long, 1 piece 18.5in (491mm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Saw the 17in (450mm) long and 18.5in (491mm) long pieces in half lengthwise. Then saw one of the 19.75in (500mm) long pieces lengthwise, making 2 pieces 2.25in (54mm) wide. Sand the rough edges. It is easiest to have steps 1-3 done for you at the wood store.
3     Saw the 17in (450mm) long and 18.5in (491mm) long pieces in half lengthwise. Then saw one of the 19.75in (500mm) long pieces lengthwise, making 2 pieces 2.25in (54mm) wide. Sand the rough edges. It is easiest to have steps 1-3 done for you at the wood store.
4     Position a 19.75in (500mm) piece on top of and 5.5in (140mm) from the top edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Use your square tool to check the angle is 90 degrees.
4     Position a 19.75in (500mm) piece on top of and 5.5in (140mm) from the top edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Use your square tool to check the angle is 90 degrees.
5     Drill and countersink 4 holes, each 1in (25mm) from the corners where the wood pieces overlap. Be careful not to drill through the entire bottom piece.
5     Drill and countersink 4 holes, each 1in (25mm) from the corners where the wood pieces overlap. Be careful not to drill through the entire bottom piece.
6     Screw 4 screws into the holes you made in step 5.
6     Screw 4 screws into the holes you made in step 5.
7     Place a 24.25in (620mm) piece on top of the opposite end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. The top edge should be 5.5in (140mm) from the top side of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Repeat the same process to join the pieces as in steps 4-6.
7     Place a 24.25in (620mm) piece on top of the opposite end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. The top edge should be 5.5in (140mm) from the top side of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Repeat the same process to join the pieces as in steps 4-6.
8     Stand the piece from steps 4-7 on its end, with the 19.75in (500mm) piece nearest to the top. Align one 2.25in (54mm) wide piece directly on top, flush with both ends. Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure one end in place.
8     Stand the piece from steps 4-7 on its end, with the 19.75in (500mm) piece nearest to the top. Align one 2.25in (54mm) wide piece directly on top, flush with both ends. Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure one end in place.
9     Add 2 more screws on the other side of the 2.25in (54mm) wide piece, repeating the process from step 8.
9     Add 2 more screws on the other side of the 2.25in (54mm) wide piece, repeating the process from step 8.
10     Make a mirror image of the piece you just assembled, using a similar method to steps 4-9.
10     Make a mirror image of the piece you just assembled, using a similar method to steps 4-9.
11     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 18.5in (491mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
11     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 18.5in (491mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
12     Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (400mm) piece to the 18.5in (491mm) piece.
12     Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (400mm) piece to the 18.5in (491mm) piece.
13     Repeat the process in step 12, securing the rest of the pieces together with 6 more screws.
13     Repeat the process in step 12, securing the rest of the pieces together with 6 more screws.
14     Slide a 15.75in (400mm) piece in the gap, exactly in between the two other 15.75in (400mm) pieces. Secure in place, as in steps 12 and 13, with 4 screws.
14     Slide a 15.75in (400mm) piece in the gap, exactly in between the two other 15.75in (400mm) pieces. Secure in place, as in steps 12 and 13, with 4 screws.
15     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 17in (450mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
15     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 17in (450mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
16     Using the same process as in steps 12-14, secure the pieces together.
16     Using the same process as in steps 12-14, secure the pieces together.
17     Lay down one of your pieces from step 10, with the screws facing upwards. Disconnect the lowest 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make a mark 2in (50mm) from the top of the open end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece, and another 2.5in (65mm) from the top of the end that meets the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Draw a line connecting the marks.
17     Lay down one of your pieces from step 10, with the screws facing upwards. Disconnect the lowest 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make a mark 2in (50mm) from the top of the open end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece, and another 2.5in (65mm) from the top of the end that meets the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Draw a line connecting the marks.
18     Drill 5 perfectly equidistant holes along the line, starting 1in (25mm) from the beginning of the line and ending 1in (25mm) from the end.
18     Drill 5 perfectly equidistant holes along the line, starting 1in (25mm) from the beginning of the line and ending 1in (25mm) from the end.
19     Make a mark 1in (25mm) from the top corner of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make another mark 2.5in (63mm) from the outside edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece and aligned with the top edge of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Draw a line connecting those marks.
19     Make a mark 1in (25mm) from the top corner of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make another mark 2.5in (63mm) from the outside edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece and aligned with the top edge of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Draw a line connecting those marks.
20     Drill 3 holes along the line: one 1/2in (15mm), one 2in (50mm), and one 5in (130mm) from the top of the line.
20     Drill 3 holes along the line: one 1/2in (15mm), one 2in (50mm), and one 5in (130mm) from the top of the line.
21     Repeat a mirror image of the process in steps 17-20 to the other piece from step 10.
21     Repeat a mirror image of the process in steps 17-20 to the other piece from step 10.
22     Place the piece from step 14 on its side, draw a line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting 3/4in (18mm) from one side, drill 5 equidistant holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 18. Flip the piece over, and drill 5 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
22     Place the piece from step 14 on its side, draw a line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting 3/4in (18mm) from one side, drill 5 equidistant holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 18. Flip the piece over, and drill 5 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
23     Place the piece from step 16 on its side, draw a 6.5in (165mm) line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting at the end of the line, drill 3 holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 20. Flip the piece over, and drill 3 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
23     Place the piece from step 16 on its side, draw a 6.5in (165mm) line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting at the end of the line, drill 3 holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 20. Flip the piece over, and drill 3 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
24     With the piece from step 22 on its side, place the arm rest piece that aligns with your holes on top. Countersink the 5 holes and add screws.
24     With the piece from step 22 on its side, place the arm rest piece that aligns with your holes on top. Countersink the 5 holes and add screws.
25     Repeat the process from step 24, but with the other arm rest.
25     Repeat the process from step 24, but with the other arm rest.
26     Re-attach the 24.25in (620mm) pieces you took off in steps 17 and 21.
26     Re-attach the 24.25in (620mm) pieces you took off in steps 17 and 21.
27     Align the piece from step 23 with it's holes on the arm rests. Countersink and screw in the 6 screws to join the pieces.
27     Align the piece from step 23 with it's holes on the arm rests. Countersink and screw in the 6 screws to join the pieces.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 6in (20.5mm x 144mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 144mm wood can also be used, though arm and back rest measurements will need to be adjusted.
 
Quantity required: 3 pieces 19.75in (500mm) long, 6 pieces 15.75in (400mm) long, 4 pieces 24.25in (620mm) long, 1 piece 17in (450mm) long, 1 piece 18.5in (491mm) long
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 64
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Two by Two Chair

Ian Anderson

Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Fall 2019

The Two by Two Chair ambitiously utilizes a webbing system to form its seating surfaces. The builder is required to stretch and nail in each strap so that there is no slack when the chair is complete. Its shape is reminiscent of Rietveld chair designs, but it makes some ergonomic concessions learned from more modern chairs, where the back support cradles ones lower back with minimal pressure. The full assembly process takes a little over 3 hours to complete and the parts cost 50 USD on average.

Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly

Expand →

1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 29.5in (75cm) long, 4 pieces 18in (46cm) long, 3 pieces 19in (48cm) long, 1 piece 16in (39cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 29.5in (75cm) long, 4 pieces 18in (46cm) long, 3 pieces 19in (48cm) long, 1 piece 16in (39cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
3     Arrange two 19in (48cm) long pieces horizontally and two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically on top.
3     Arrange two 19in (48cm) long pieces horizontally and two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically on top.
4     Using a spare piece of wood as a spacer, make sure the 19in (48cm) long pieces extend under the 18in (46cm) long pieces by one full width of wood. Also, the 18in (46cm) long pieces should hang over the 19in (48cm) long pieces on the top corners.
4     Using a spare piece of wood as a spacer, make sure the 19in (48cm) long pieces extend under the 18in (46cm) long pieces by one full width of wood. Also, the 18in (46cm) long pieces should hang over the 19in (48cm) long pieces on the top corners.
5     In the upper corner, using the square tool, confirm the pieces form a 90 degree angle, and drill two diagonal holes where they overlap. Drill countersink holes, wide enough the screw can be embedded in them, about 1/2in (1.5cm) deep.
5     In the upper corner, using the square tool, confirm the pieces form a 90 degree angle, and drill two diagonal holes where they overlap. Drill countersink holes, wide enough the screw can be embedded in them, about 1/2in (1.5cm) deep.
6     Twist in two screws to join the pieces.
6     Twist in two screws to join the pieces.
7     Repeat steps 5-6 on the other upper corner.
7     Repeat steps 5-6 on the other upper corner.
8     On the bottom 2 corners, repeat the process in step 5, drilling and countersinking holes.
8     On the bottom 2 corners, repeat the process in step 5, drilling and countersinking holes.
9     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) a 22.5in (57cm) length of polyester webbing. Fold one end under itself and nail that end down over the holes of the still unattached 19in (48cm) long piece from step 8.
9     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) a 22.5in (57cm) length of polyester webbing. Fold one end under itself and nail that end down over the holes of the still unattached 19in (48cm) long piece from step 8.
10     Repeat step 9 on the other end of the 19in (48cm) long piece. Place the previously assembled pieces back in place, and while placing a lot of pressure on where the pieces overlap, add 4 screws into the previously drilled holes, through the webbing, and into the holes on the 19in (48cm) long piece.
10     Repeat step 9 on the other end of the 19in (48cm) long piece. Place the previously assembled pieces back in place, and while placing a lot of pressure on where the pieces overlap, add 4 screws into the previously drilled holes, through the webbing, and into the holes on the 19in (48cm) long piece.
11     Stretch the webbing across the frame, fold the other end of the webbing underneath itself, push a nail through the end, and prepare to drive the nail in. The strap must be very tight on the frame, so use the nail to lever the strap tighter before driving it in.
11     Stretch the webbing across the frame, fold the other end of the webbing underneath itself, push a nail through the end, and prepare to drive the nail in. The strap must be very tight on the frame, so use the nail to lever the strap tighter before driving it in.
12     Drive the nail in.
12     Drive the nail in.
13     Add 4 more nails, and repeat the process in steps 11-13 to secure the other strap.
13     Add 4 more nails, and repeat the process in steps 11-13 to secure the other strap.
14     Position two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically at the lower corners of the frame.
14     Position two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically at the lower corners of the frame.
15     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to join the pieces. Repeat on the other 18in (46cm) long piece.
15     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to join the pieces. Repeat on the other 18in (46cm) long piece.
16     Repeat the process in step 15, but on the inside of the frame. The 18in (46cm) long pieces should each be secured to the frame by 2 pieces of wood and 4 screws.
16     Repeat the process in step 15, but on the inside of the frame. The 18in (46cm) long pieces should each be secured to the frame by 2 pieces of wood and 4 screws.
17     Lay down 29.5in (75cm) long pieces vertically and one 16in (39cm) long piece horizontally between them.
17     Lay down 29.5in (75cm) long pieces vertically and one 16in (39cm) long piece horizontally between them.
18     Join each 29.5in (75cm) long piece to the 16in (39cm) long piece with 2 screws each.
18     Join each 29.5in (75cm) long piece to the 16in (39cm) long piece with 2 screws each.
19     Place a 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
19     Place a 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
20     Drill 2 holes, countersink, and add 2 screws on each end to secure the 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
20     Drill 2 holes, countersink, and add 2 screws on each end to secure the 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
21     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) nine 16.5in (41cm) lengths of polyester webbing. Nail one end of each of the 9 straps, evenly spaced, to the 16in (39cm) long piece. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need 7 straps.
21     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) nine 16.5in (41cm) lengths of polyester webbing. Nail one end of each of the 9 straps, evenly spaced, to the 16in (39cm) long piece. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need 7 straps.
22     Stretch the straps across the frame, and secure them in place using the method from step 11.
22     Stretch the straps across the frame, and secure them in place using the method from step 11.
23     Position the frame from the previous step so that the top of the seat measures 18in (46cm) from the bottom of the 29.5in (75cm) long pieces.
23     Position the frame from the previous step so that the top of the seat measures 18in (46cm) from the bottom of the 29.5in (75cm) long pieces.
24     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 19in (48cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
24     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 19in (48cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
25     Drill two more diagonal holes, countersink, and add two more screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 18in (46cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
25     Drill two more diagonal holes, countersink, and add two more screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 18in (46cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
26     Using the method from steps 11-13, add 7 more 25in (64cm) straps parallel to the existing 2 on the seat. Then, thread two 26in (66cm) straps across the 9 seat straps. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need to add 5 straps parallel to the 2 existing on the seat.
26     Using the method from steps 11-13, add 7 more 25in (64cm) straps parallel to the existing 2 on the seat. Then, thread two 26in (66cm) straps across the 9 seat straps. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need to add 5 straps parallel to the 2 existing on the seat.
27     Tighten the 26in (66cm) straps and nail to the underside of the seat at each end.
27     Tighten the 26in (66cm) straps and nail to the underside of the seat at each end.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 2in x 2in (44mm x 44mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 29.5in (75cm) long, 4 pieces 18in (46cm) long, 3 pieces 19in (48cm) long, 1 piece 16in (39cm) long
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 2in (4 x 50mm)
 
Quantity required: 32
Polyester Webbing, 1.5in (38mm) Wide
Quantity required: 41ft (12.5m)
Wide Head Wire Nail, 3/4in (roughly 20mm) Length
 
Quantity required: 200
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Hammer
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Alternative Parts
Polyester Seatbelt Webbing, 2in (51mm) Wide
Quantity required: 36ft (11m)
Replaces: Polyester Webbing, 1.5in (38mm) Wide
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