Category: Semi-hard to assemble

Rough and Ready Chair

Tord Boontje

Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Rough and Ready Chair

Designed by Tord Boontje
Published in Fall 2019

Tord Boontje’s visually striking Rough and Ready Chair utilizes a simple engineering trick, enhancing the strength of the brittle square frame by placing diagonal wooden pieces all around it. Its aesthetics are defined by whatever wood or spare blankets you happen to have on hand. The full assembly process takes up to 2 hours to complete, and the cost of parts really relies on how much you happen to already have. The design is also relatively easy to manipulate in order to make a bench or a stool.

Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Assembly

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1     Measure and cut the following lengths of 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm) wood: 2 pieces 33.5in (847mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long.
1     Measure and cut the following lengths of 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm) wood: 2 pieces 33.5in (847mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long.
2     Lay a 33.5in (847mm) long piece vertically. Horizontally, position one 18.5in (470mm) long piece 17.5in (440mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece. Then horizontally position one 18in (454mm) long piece 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece.
2     Lay a 33.5in (847mm) long piece vertically. Horizontally, position one 18.5in (470mm) long piece 17.5in (440mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece. Then horizontally position one 18in (454mm) long piece 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece.
3     Drill and countersink one hole where each horizontal piece overlaps with the vertical piece.
3     Drill and countersink one hole where each horizontal piece overlaps with the vertical piece.
4     Twist a screw into the holes to join the two horizontal pieces to the vertical one.
4     Twist a screw into the holes to join the two horizontal pieces to the vertical one.
5     Position one 18in (460mm) long piece under both horizontal pieces. Use the end of a spare piece as a spacer, and drill + screw the 18in (460mm) long piece to the 18.5in (470mm) long piece. Make right angles between all 4 overlapping pieces, and add one more screw to complete the square. Place and screw a 21in (538mm) long diagonal piece for stability.
5     Position one 18in (460mm) long piece under both horizontal pieces. Use the end of a spare piece as a spacer, and drill + screw the 18in (460mm) long piece to the 18.5in (470mm) long piece. Make right angles between all 4 overlapping pieces, and add one more screw to complete the square. Place and screw a 21in (538mm) long diagonal piece for stability.
6     Repeat a similar process as in steps 2-5, making a structure almost mirroring the one made in steps 2-5 (the diagonal piece placement is not mirrored).
6     Repeat a similar process as in steps 2-5, making a structure almost mirroring the one made in steps 2-5 (the diagonal piece placement is not mirrored).
7     Leaving 1 width of wood space on either side of the frame, position a 15in (380mm) long piece 4.5in (116mm) from the top of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
7     Leaving 1 width of wood space on either side of the frame, position a 15in (380mm) long piece 4.5in (116mm) from the top of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
8     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and against the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
8     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and against the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
9     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and at the very front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
9     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and at the very front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
10     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18in (454mm) long pieces, and 3in (80mm) from the front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
10     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18in (454mm) long pieces, and 3in (80mm) from the front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
11     Place the 13.5in (340mm) long piece across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces and 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
11     Place the 13.5in (340mm) long piece across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces and 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
12     Place the 17.5in (440mm) long piece diagonally across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces. Make sure the frame is straight on a flat surface. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
12     Place the 17.5in (440mm) long piece diagonally across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces. Make sure the frame is straight on a flat surface. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
13     Place the 14in (350mm) long piece diagonally across both 18in (460mm) long pieces. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
13     Place the 14in (350mm) long piece diagonally across both 18in (460mm) long pieces. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
14     Measure and cut the following rectangles of 1/2in (12mm) thick plywood: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm). Have these pre-cut at the store, if possible.
14     Measure and cut the following rectangles of 1/2in (12mm) thick plywood: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm). Have these pre-cut at the store, if possible.
15     Place the 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm) piece on the seat area and drill + screw it into place with 4 screws.
15     Place the 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm) piece on the seat area and drill + screw it into place with 4 screws.
16     Place the 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm) piece on the back rest area and drill + screw it into place on the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces with 2 screws.
16     Place the 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm) piece on the back rest area and drill + screw it into place on the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces with 2 screws.
17     Not part of the original design: If you are using softwood that is relatively thin, you may need to reinforce the back area, so it doesn’t break under pressure. To avoid this, use softwood that is at least (34mm x 34mm), or use hardwood (like maple).
17     Not part of the original design: If you are using softwood that is relatively thin, you may need to reinforce the back area, so it doesn’t break under pressure. To avoid this, use softwood that is at least (34mm x 34mm), or use hardwood (like maple).
18     To make the seat have a nice angle, cut 3/4in (17mm) from the bottom of the back legs. Then fold a blanket to about 44in x 16in (1100mm x 400mm) and place it on the chair.
18     To make the seat have a nice angle, cut 3/4in (17mm) from the bottom of the back legs. Then fold a blanket to about 44in x 16in (1100mm x 400mm) and place it on the chair.
19     Wrap one side of your Hook and Loop (or Velcro), with the flat side exposed, around the top of the back rest twice.
19     Wrap one side of your Hook and Loop (or Velcro), with the flat side exposed, around the top of the back rest twice.
20     Pull tight, and insert a small piece of the opposite side of the Hook and Loop (or Velcro) underneath to secure.
20     Pull tight, and insert a small piece of the opposite side of the Hook and Loop (or Velcro) underneath to secure.
21     Repeat steps 19-20 to secure the rest of the blanket to the seat and the back rest.
21     Repeat steps 19-20 to secure the rest of the blanket to the seat and the back rest.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 32.5in (830mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long
Plywood, 1/2in (12mm) thickness
 
Quantity required: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm)
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 64
Towel or Blanket
 
Quantity required: 1
Hook and Loop (or Velcro), 1/2in (13mm) wide
Quantity required: 15ft (4.5m)
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Help Each Other

Crate Chair

Gerrit Rietveld

Crate Chair DIY by Gerrit Rietveld
Crate Chair

Designed by Gerrit Rietveld
Published in Fall 2019

Rietveld’s Crate Chair (1934) was designed with a particular interest in using recycled materials. Building instructions for most of Rietveld’s designs have since been published in the 1986 book How to Construct Rietveld Furniture. Because this chair was originally produced, and it was not designed specifically as a DIY chair, it does require quite a lot of wood and more time spent with a saw. Assembly time is about 3 hours and the average cost is under 50 USD.

Crate Chair DIY by Gerrit Rietveld
Crate Chair DIY by Gerrit Rietveld
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 3 pieces 19.75in (500mm) long, 6 pieces 15.75in (400mm) long, 4 pieces 24.25in (620mm) long, 1 piece 17in (450mm) long, 1 piece 18.5in (491mm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 3 pieces 19.75in (500mm) long, 6 pieces 15.75in (400mm) long, 4 pieces 24.25in (620mm) long, 1 piece 17in (450mm) long, 1 piece 18.5in (491mm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Saw the 17in (450mm) long and 18.5in (491mm) long pieces in half lengthwise. Then saw one of the 19.75in (500mm) long pieces lengthwise, making 2 pieces 2.25in (54mm) wide. Sand the rough edges. It is easiest to have steps 1-3 done for you at the wood store.
3     Saw the 17in (450mm) long and 18.5in (491mm) long pieces in half lengthwise. Then saw one of the 19.75in (500mm) long pieces lengthwise, making 2 pieces 2.25in (54mm) wide. Sand the rough edges. It is easiest to have steps 1-3 done for you at the wood store.
4     Position a 19.75in (500mm) piece on top of and 5.5in (140mm) from the top edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Use your square tool to check the angle is 90 degrees.
4     Position a 19.75in (500mm) piece on top of and 5.5in (140mm) from the top edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Use your square tool to check the angle is 90 degrees.
5     Drill and countersink 4 holes, each 1in (25mm) from the corners where the wood pieces overlap. Be careful not to drill through the entire bottom piece.
5     Drill and countersink 4 holes, each 1in (25mm) from the corners where the wood pieces overlap. Be careful not to drill through the entire bottom piece.
6     Screw 4 screws into the holes you made in step 5.
6     Screw 4 screws into the holes you made in step 5.
7     Place a 24.25in (620mm) piece on top of the opposite end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. The top edge should be 5.5in (140mm) from the top side of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Repeat the same process to join the pieces as in steps 4-6.
7     Place a 24.25in (620mm) piece on top of the opposite end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. The top edge should be 5.5in (140mm) from the top side of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Repeat the same process to join the pieces as in steps 4-6.
8     Stand the piece from steps 4-7 on its end, with the 19.75in (500mm) piece nearest to the top. Align one 2.25in (54mm) wide piece directly on top, flush with both ends. Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure one end in place.
8     Stand the piece from steps 4-7 on its end, with the 19.75in (500mm) piece nearest to the top. Align one 2.25in (54mm) wide piece directly on top, flush with both ends. Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure one end in place.
9     Add 2 more screws on the other side of the 2.25in (54mm) wide piece, repeating the process from step 8.
9     Add 2 more screws on the other side of the 2.25in (54mm) wide piece, repeating the process from step 8.
10     Make a mirror image of the piece you just assembled, using a similar method to steps 4-9.
10     Make a mirror image of the piece you just assembled, using a similar method to steps 4-9.
11     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 18.5in (491mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
11     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 18.5in (491mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
12     Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (400mm) piece to the 18.5in (491mm) piece.
12     Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (400mm) piece to the 18.5in (491mm) piece.
13     Repeat the process in step 12, securing the rest of the pieces together with 6 more screws.
13     Repeat the process in step 12, securing the rest of the pieces together with 6 more screws.
14     Slide a 15.75in (400mm) piece in the gap, exactly in between the two other 15.75in (400mm) pieces. Secure in place, as in steps 12 and 13, with 4 screws.
14     Slide a 15.75in (400mm) piece in the gap, exactly in between the two other 15.75in (400mm) pieces. Secure in place, as in steps 12 and 13, with 4 screws.
15     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 17in (450mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
15     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 17in (450mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
16     Using the same process as in steps 12-14, secure the pieces together.
16     Using the same process as in steps 12-14, secure the pieces together.
17     Lay down one of your pieces from step 10, with the screws facing upwards. Disconnect the lowest 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make a mark 2in (50mm) from the top of the open end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece, and another 2.5in (65mm) from the top of the end that meets the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Draw a line connecting the marks.
17     Lay down one of your pieces from step 10, with the screws facing upwards. Disconnect the lowest 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make a mark 2in (50mm) from the top of the open end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece, and another 2.5in (65mm) from the top of the end that meets the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Draw a line connecting the marks.
18     Drill 5 perfectly equidistant holes along the line, starting 1in (25mm) from the beginning of the line and ending 1in (25mm) from the end.
18     Drill 5 perfectly equidistant holes along the line, starting 1in (25mm) from the beginning of the line and ending 1in (25mm) from the end.
19     Make a mark 1in (25mm) from the top corner of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make another mark 2.5in (63mm) from the outside edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece and aligned with the top edge of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Draw a line connecting those marks.
19     Make a mark 1in (25mm) from the top corner of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make another mark 2.5in (63mm) from the outside edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece and aligned with the top edge of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Draw a line connecting those marks.
20     Drill 3 holes along the line: one 1/2in (15mm), one 2in (50mm), and one 5in (130mm) from the top of the line.
20     Drill 3 holes along the line: one 1/2in (15mm), one 2in (50mm), and one 5in (130mm) from the top of the line.
21     Repeat a mirror image of the process in steps 17-20 to the other piece from step 10.
21     Repeat a mirror image of the process in steps 17-20 to the other piece from step 10.
22     Place the piece from step 14 on its side, draw a line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting 3/4in (18mm) from one side, drill 5 equidistant holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 18. Flip the piece over, and drill 5 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
22     Place the piece from step 14 on its side, draw a line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting 3/4in (18mm) from one side, drill 5 equidistant holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 18. Flip the piece over, and drill 5 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
23     Place the piece from step 16 on its side, draw a 6.5in (165mm) line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting at the end of the line, drill 3 holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 20. Flip the piece over, and drill 3 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
23     Place the piece from step 16 on its side, draw a 6.5in (165mm) line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting at the end of the line, drill 3 holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 20. Flip the piece over, and drill 3 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
24     With the piece from step 22 on its side, place the arm rest piece that aligns with your holes on top. Countersink the 5 holes and add screws.
24     With the piece from step 22 on its side, place the arm rest piece that aligns with your holes on top. Countersink the 5 holes and add screws.
25     Repeat the process from step 24, but with the other arm rest.
25     Repeat the process from step 24, but with the other arm rest.
26     Re-attach the 24.25in (620mm) pieces you took off in steps 17 and 21.
26     Re-attach the 24.25in (620mm) pieces you took off in steps 17 and 21.
27     Align the piece from step 23 with it's holes on the arm rests. Countersink and screw in the 6 screws to join the pieces.
27     Align the piece from step 23 with it's holes on the arm rests. Countersink and screw in the 6 screws to join the pieces.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 6in (20.5mm x 144mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 144mm wood can also be used, though arm and back rest measurements will need to be adjusted.
 
Quantity required: 3 pieces 19.75in (500mm) long, 6 pieces 15.75in (400mm) long, 4 pieces 24.25in (620mm) long, 1 piece 17in (450mm) long, 1 piece 18.5in (491mm) long
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 64
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Two by Two Chair

Ian Anderson

Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Fall 2019

The Two by Two Chair ambitiously utilizes a webbing system to form its seating surfaces. The builder is required to stretch and nail in each strap so that there is no slack when the chair is complete. Its shape is reminiscent of Rietveld chair designs, but it makes some ergonomic concessions learned from more modern chairs, where the back support cradles ones lower back with minimal pressure. The full assembly process takes a little over 3 hours to complete and the parts cost 50 USD on average.

Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 29.5in (75cm) long, 4 pieces 18in (46cm) long, 3 pieces 19in (48cm) long, 1 piece 16in (39cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 29.5in (75cm) long, 4 pieces 18in (46cm) long, 3 pieces 19in (48cm) long, 1 piece 16in (39cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
3     Arrange two 19in (48cm) long pieces horizontally and two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically on top.
3     Arrange two 19in (48cm) long pieces horizontally and two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically on top.
4     Using a spare piece of wood as a spacer, make sure the 19in (48cm) long pieces extend under the 18in (46cm) long pieces by one full width of wood. Also, the 18in (46cm) long pieces should hang over the 19in (48cm) long pieces on the top corners.
4     Using a spare piece of wood as a spacer, make sure the 19in (48cm) long pieces extend under the 18in (46cm) long pieces by one full width of wood. Also, the 18in (46cm) long pieces should hang over the 19in (48cm) long pieces on the top corners.
5     In the upper corner, using the square tool, confirm the pieces form a 90 degree angle, and drill two diagonal holes where they overlap. Drill countersink holes, wide enough the screw can be embedded in them, about 1/2in (1.5cm) deep.
5     In the upper corner, using the square tool, confirm the pieces form a 90 degree angle, and drill two diagonal holes where they overlap. Drill countersink holes, wide enough the screw can be embedded in them, about 1/2in (1.5cm) deep.
6     Twist in two screws to join the pieces.
6     Twist in two screws to join the pieces.
7     Repeat steps 5-6 on the other upper corner.
7     Repeat steps 5-6 on the other upper corner.
8     On the bottom 2 corners, repeat the process in step 5, drilling and countersinking holes.
8     On the bottom 2 corners, repeat the process in step 5, drilling and countersinking holes.
9     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) a 22.5in (57cm) length of polyester webbing. Fold one end under itself and nail that end down over the holes of the still unattached 19in (48cm) long piece from step 8.
9     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) a 22.5in (57cm) length of polyester webbing. Fold one end under itself and nail that end down over the holes of the still unattached 19in (48cm) long piece from step 8.
10     Repeat step 9 on the other end of the 19in (48cm) long piece. Place the previously assembled pieces back in place, and while placing a lot of pressure on where the pieces overlap, add 4 screws into the previously drilled holes, through the webbing, and into the holes on the 19in (48cm) long piece.
10     Repeat step 9 on the other end of the 19in (48cm) long piece. Place the previously assembled pieces back in place, and while placing a lot of pressure on where the pieces overlap, add 4 screws into the previously drilled holes, through the webbing, and into the holes on the 19in (48cm) long piece.
11     Stretch the webbing across the frame, fold the other end of the webbing underneath itself, push a nail through the end, and prepare to drive the nail in. The strap must be very tight on the frame, so use the nail to lever the strap tighter before driving it in.
11     Stretch the webbing across the frame, fold the other end of the webbing underneath itself, push a nail through the end, and prepare to drive the nail in. The strap must be very tight on the frame, so use the nail to lever the strap tighter before driving it in.
12     Drive the nail in.
12     Drive the nail in.
13     Add 4 more nails, and repeat the process in steps 11-13 to secure the other strap.
13     Add 4 more nails, and repeat the process in steps 11-13 to secure the other strap.
14     Position two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically at the lower corners of the frame.
14     Position two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically at the lower corners of the frame.
15     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to join the pieces. Repeat on the other 18in (46cm) long piece.
15     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to join the pieces. Repeat on the other 18in (46cm) long piece.
16     Repeat the process in step 15, but on the inside of the frame. The 18in (46cm) long pieces should each be secured to the frame by 2 pieces of wood and 4 screws.
16     Repeat the process in step 15, but on the inside of the frame. The 18in (46cm) long pieces should each be secured to the frame by 2 pieces of wood and 4 screws.
17     Lay down 29.5in (75cm) long pieces vertically and one 16in (39cm) long piece horizontally between them.
17     Lay down 29.5in (75cm) long pieces vertically and one 16in (39cm) long piece horizontally between them.
18     Join each 29.5in (75cm) long piece to the 16in (39cm) long piece with 2 screws each.
18     Join each 29.5in (75cm) long piece to the 16in (39cm) long piece with 2 screws each.
19     Place a 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
19     Place a 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
20     Drill 2 holes, countersink, and add 2 screws on each end to secure the 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
20     Drill 2 holes, countersink, and add 2 screws on each end to secure the 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
21     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) nine 16.5in (41cm) lengths of polyester webbing. Nail one end of each of the 9 straps, evenly spaced, to the 16in (39cm) long piece. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need 7 straps.
21     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) nine 16.5in (41cm) lengths of polyester webbing. Nail one end of each of the 9 straps, evenly spaced, to the 16in (39cm) long piece. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need 7 straps.
22     Stretch the straps across the frame, and secure them in place using the method from step 11.
22     Stretch the straps across the frame, and secure them in place using the method from step 11.
23     Position the frame from the previous step so that the top of the seat measures 18in (46cm) from the bottom of the 29.5in (75cm) long pieces.
23     Position the frame from the previous step so that the top of the seat measures 18in (46cm) from the bottom of the 29.5in (75cm) long pieces.
24     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 19in (48cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
24     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 19in (48cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
25     Drill two more diagonal holes, countersink, and add two more screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 18in (46cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
25     Drill two more diagonal holes, countersink, and add two more screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 18in (46cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
26     Using the method from steps 11-13, add 7 more 25in (64cm) straps parallel to the existing 2 on the seat. Then, thread two 26in (66cm) straps across the 9 seat straps. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need to add 5 straps parallel to the 2 existing on the seat.
26     Using the method from steps 11-13, add 7 more 25in (64cm) straps parallel to the existing 2 on the seat. Then, thread two 26in (66cm) straps across the 9 seat straps. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need to add 5 straps parallel to the 2 existing on the seat.
27     Tighten the 26in (66cm) straps and nail to the underside of the seat at each end.
27     Tighten the 26in (66cm) straps and nail to the underside of the seat at each end.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 2in x 2in (44mm x 44mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 29.5in (75cm) long, 4 pieces 18in (46cm) long, 3 pieces 19in (48cm) long, 1 piece 16in (39cm) long
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 2in (4 x 50mm)
 
Quantity required: 32
Polyester Webbing, 1.5in (38mm) Wide
Quantity required: 41ft (12.5m)
Wide Head Wire Nail, 3/4in (roughly 20mm) Length
 
Quantity required: 200
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Hammer
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Alternative Parts
Polyester Seatbelt Webbing, 2in (51mm) Wide
Quantity required: 36ft (11m)
Replaces: Polyester Webbing, 1.5in (38mm) Wide
Help Each Other

Two by One Chair

Ian Anderson

Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Fall 2019

Featured in the essay Make This Chair., the Two by One Chair design was used as a pretext to pursue a discussion on DIY and the modern condition. It requires a minimal amount of materials by utilizing the triangle to both enhance the structure of the chair and define its aesthetic (much in the same way Enzo Mari and Tord Boontje did with their DIY designs). The full assembly process takes about 2 hours to complete and the parts cost less than 20 USD on average.

Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 34.5in (88cm) long, 6 pieces 27.5in (70cm) long, 2 pieces 15.75in (40cm), 2 pieces 17.75in (45cm), 10 pieces 20in (50cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 34.5in (88cm) long, 6 pieces 27.5in (70cm) long, 2 pieces 15.75in (40cm), 2 pieces 17.75in (45cm), 10 pieces 20in (50cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after. If you would like your chair painted or finished, do this after step 2 and before step 3.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after. If you would like your chair painted or finished, do this after step 2 and before step 3.
3     Arrange two 27.5in (70cm) long pieces vertically, and one 17.75in (45cm) piece horizontally, as photographed.
3     Arrange two 27.5in (70cm) long pieces vertically, and one 17.75in (45cm) piece horizontally, as photographed.
4     On the left side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. Using a spare length of wood, make sure the horizontal piece extends a full width of wood beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
4     On the left side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. Using a spare length of wood, make sure the horizontal piece extends a full width of wood beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
5     Hold both pieces steady and drill two vertical holes, evenly spaced. Then countersink the holes (do this by drilling very shallow holes, the width of the screw head, in the first holes).
5     Hold both pieces steady and drill two vertical holes, evenly spaced. Then countersink the holes (do this by drilling very shallow holes, the width of the screw head, in the first holes).
6     Screw the two pieces of wood together with two screws. The screw head should be flush with the wood.
6     Screw the two pieces of wood together with two screws. The screw head should be flush with the wood.
7     On the right side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. The horizontal piece should extend 2.75in (7cm) beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
7     On the right side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. The horizontal piece should extend 2.75in (7cm) beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
8     Drill holes and screw the two pieces together, as outlined in step 5 and 6.
8     Drill holes and screw the two pieces together, as outlined in step 5 and 6.
9     Align a 15.75in (40cm) length piece of wood so so that it is resting on the top of the vertical pieces and is flush with the left piece.
9     Align a 15.75in (40cm) length piece of wood so so that it is resting on the top of the vertical pieces and is flush with the left piece.
10     Hold the wood in place, vertically drill one hole, countersink and add one screw to attach the left vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
10     Hold the wood in place, vertically drill one hole, countersink and add one screw to attach the left vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
11     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the right vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece. Make sure both form a 90 degree angle.
11     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the right vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece. Make sure both form a 90 degree angle.
12     Place one 27.5in (70cm) piece to the right of the left vertical piece. Place one 34.5in (88cm) piece to the right of the right vertical piece, as photographed.
12     Place one 27.5in (70cm) piece to the right of the left vertical piece. Place one 34.5in (88cm) piece to the right of the right vertical piece, as photographed.
13     Use the width of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, and pinch the two vertical pieces together on the bottom, making sure the ends of the angled pieces are flush with the ends of the straight pieces.
13     Use the width of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, and pinch the two vertical pieces together on the bottom, making sure the ends of the angled pieces are flush with the ends of the straight pieces.
14     Hold the wood in place, drill holes and add two screws to secure the new 27.5in (70cm) piece.
14     Hold the wood in place, drill holes and add two screws to secure the new 27.5in (70cm) piece.
15     Repeat steps 13 and 14 to secure the new 34.5in (88cm) piece.
15     Repeat steps 13 and 14 to secure the new 34.5in (88cm) piece.
16     On the angled side of where the set of vertical pieces come together, drill two holes, countersink, and add screws. Screw heads should be flush.
16     On the angled side of where the set of vertical pieces come together, drill two holes, countersink, and add screws. Screw heads should be flush.
17     Repeat step 16 on the second set of vertical pieces. Make sure the two pieces are pinched together firmly.
17     Repeat step 16 on the second set of vertical pieces. Make sure the two pieces are pinched together firmly.
18     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the angled vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
18     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the angled vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
19     Repeat steps 3 through 18, but this time making a mirror image of what you made.
19     Repeat steps 3 through 18, but this time making a mirror image of what you made.
20     Place one 20in (50cm) piece between each vertical triangle. Make sure each piece is flush with the outside of the frame.
20     Place one 20in (50cm) piece between each vertical triangle. Make sure each piece is flush with the outside of the frame.
21     Drill vertical holes, countersink, and add two screws to the 20in (50cm) piece, securing it to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
21     Drill vertical holes, countersink, and add two screws to the 20in (50cm) piece, securing it to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
22     Drill holes, countersink, and add two screws to the vertical 27.5in (70cm) piece, securing it to the 20in (50cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
22     Drill holes, countersink, and add two screws to the vertical 27.5in (70cm) piece, securing it to the 20in (50cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
23     Arrange three 20in (50cm) pieces. They should be touching the vertical 27.5in (70cm) pieces, as pictured.
23     Arrange three 20in (50cm) pieces. They should be touching the vertical 27.5in (70cm) pieces, as pictured.
24     Drill one hole, countersink, and add one screw to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat on both sides until all 20in (50cm) pieces are secure.
24     Drill one hole, countersink, and add one screw to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat on both sides until all 20in (50cm) pieces are secure.
25     Place three 20in (50cm) pieces, evenly spaced in the remaining section of the frame. Attach to the frame, as done in step 24.
25     Place three 20in (50cm) pieces, evenly spaced in the remaining section of the frame. Attach to the frame, as done in step 24.
26     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (40cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
26     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (40cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
27     Align one 20in (50cm) piece to the ends of the 34.5in (88cm) pieces, as pictured.
27     Align one 20in (50cm) piece to the ends of the 34.5in (88cm) pieces, as pictured.
28     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Be careful the screw and/or holes are not too deep. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
28     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Be careful the screw and/or holes are not too deep. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
29     Arrange a 20in (50cm) piece about 3/4in (2cm) below the one from step 27, and repeat the process in step 28.
29     Arrange a 20in (50cm) piece about 3/4in (2cm) below the one from step 27, and repeat the process in step 28.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (20mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 34mm or 19mm x 38mm wood cuts will also work.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 34.5in (88cm) long, 6 pieces 27.5in (70cm) long, 2 pieces 15.75in (40cm) long, 2 pieces 17.75in (45cm) long, 10 pieces 20in (50cm) long
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 70
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

DIY Chair

Max Lamb

DIY Chair by Max Lamb
DIY Chair

Designed by Max Lamb
Published in Fall 2019

A DIY chair’s instructions are just as significant as the design of the DIY chair itself. The DIY Chair by Max Lamb, designed in 2008, is one of the more modern DIY chairs around, mainly because of the way Max chose to communicate the process of making the chair. The simple step-by-step method that he employed meticulously controls the process of production with detailed notes. The simple but time consuming assembly process takes up to 4 hours to complete. Parts cost under 50 USD on average.

DIY Chair by Max Lamb
DIY Chair by Max Lamb
Assembly

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1     Measure a length of wood at 18.5in (47cm) long and mark a line with your square tool.
1     Measure a length of wood at 18.5in (47cm) long and mark a line with your square tool.
2     Elevate the wood from the table and saw along the line you just made. Repeat step 1 and 2 until you have 30 pieces (31 pieces if using 18mm x 34mm wood).
2     Elevate the wood from the table and saw along the line you just made. Repeat step 1 and 2 until you have 30 pieces (31 pieces if using 18mm x 34mm wood).
3     Sand the rough edges and paint the pieces at this time if you would like. If painting, apply 2-3 light coats.
3     Sand the rough edges and paint the pieces at this time if you would like. If painting, apply 2-3 light coats.
4     Place two pieces of wood at a right angle with the wide side on top of the narrow side. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
4     Place two pieces of wood at a right angle with the wide side on top of the narrow side. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
5     Use the square to confirm a 90 degree angle, hold the two pieces down, and drill two vertical holes beside each other.
5     Use the square to confirm a 90 degree angle, hold the two pieces down, and drill two vertical holes beside each other.
6     Using a larger drill bit, countersink the holes. Then screw the two pieces together with wood screws until the screw heads are flush with the wood.
6     Using a larger drill bit, countersink the holes. Then screw the two pieces together with wood screws until the screw heads are flush with the wood.
7     Position the lower piece to be vertical. Place a third piece on top of the horizontal piece, and aligned with the edge of the vertical piece. Drill and screw the pieces together.
7     Position the lower piece to be vertical. Place a third piece on top of the horizontal piece, and aligned with the edge of the vertical piece. Drill and screw the pieces together.
8     Drill and add two more screws, through the wide side of the vertical piece, forming a triangular form secured with 6 screws.
8     Drill and add two more screws, through the wide side of the vertical piece, forming a triangular form secured with 6 screws.
9     Similarly to the process in step 5, 6, 7, and 8, secure two more pieces of wood at the end of the third piece.
9     Similarly to the process in step 5, 6, 7, and 8, secure two more pieces of wood at the end of the third piece.
10     Secure a sixth piece at the ends of the two parallel horizontal pieces. It should hang over each horizontal piece by 1 full width of wood.
10     Secure a sixth piece at the ends of the two parallel horizontal pieces. It should hang over each horizontal piece by 1 full width of wood.
11     Add two more legs to the frame.
11     Add two more legs to the frame.
12     By this stage, you should have a square frame with four legs.
12     By this stage, you should have a square frame with four legs.
13     Turn the frame over, and using one length of wood as a measuring spacer, secure a piece of wood parallel to the edge of the frame. Drill and screw each end.
13     Turn the frame over, and using one length of wood as a measuring spacer, secure a piece of wood parallel to the edge of the frame. Drill and screw each end.
14     Repeat step 13 for seven (eight if using 18mm x 34mm wood) more times.
14     Repeat step 13 for seven (eight if using 18mm x 34mm wood) more times.
15     Turn the frame over. There should be a gap left open on the seat.
15     Turn the frame over. There should be a gap left open on the seat.
16     Lay out another square frame with four wood pieces. Two parallel pieces on their narrow edge, and on top of them two parallel pieces on their wide edge.
16     Lay out another square frame with four wood pieces. Two parallel pieces on their narrow edge, and on top of them two parallel pieces on their wide edge.
17     The top pieces should overlap by 1 full width of wood.
17     The top pieces should overlap by 1 full width of wood.
18     Check that all corners form right angles, and join the pieces together with eight screws.
18     Check that all corners form right angles, and join the pieces together with eight screws.
19     Slide the new frame up the old one, positioning it 4 widths of wood below the seat base. Drill and screw two screws through each wide edge of wood.
19     Slide the new frame up the old one, positioning it 4 widths of wood below the seat base. Drill and screw two screws through each wide edge of wood.
20     This will secure the new frame to the old one using 16 screws total, 4 per corner.
20     This will secure the new frame to the old one using 16 screws total, 4 per corner.
21     To assemble the backrest, make a right angle with two wood pieces, as in step 4. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
21     To assemble the backrest, make a right angle with two wood pieces, as in step 4. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
22     Drill two holes, countersink the holes, and screw the pieces together. As in step 21, place a second piece at the other end of the upper piece. Drill and screw in place.
22     Drill two holes, countersink the holes, and screw the pieces together. As in step 21, place a second piece at the other end of the upper piece. Drill and screw in place.
23     Using the narrow side of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, place another horizontal piece across the narrow edges of the lower pieces.
23     Using the narrow side of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, place another horizontal piece across the narrow edges of the lower pieces.
24     Align with the edge of the first top piece, hold the wood in place, then drill and countersink two holes on each end of the piece you placed in step 23.
24     Align with the edge of the first top piece, hold the wood in place, then drill and countersink two holes on each end of the piece you placed in step 23.
25     Screw the piece in place at both ends.
25     Screw the piece in place at both ends.
26     Repeat steps 23-25, securing two more pieces. The backrest should have four pieces running perpendicular to two pieces holding them in place.
26     Repeat steps 23-25, securing two more pieces. The backrest should have four pieces running perpendicular to two pieces holding them in place.
27     Turn the backrest on its side, and place a piece of wood beneath the lowest of the 4 slats. With 2 screws, secure it to the piece running perpendicular to the 4 slats.
27     Turn the backrest on its side, and place a piece of wood beneath the lowest of the 4 slats. With 2 screws, secure it to the piece running perpendicular to the 4 slats.
28     With 2 more screws, secure the piece you added in step 27 to the lowest of the 4 slats.
28     With 2 more screws, secure the piece you added in step 27 to the lowest of the 4 slats.
29     Repeat steps 27-28, securing another piece of wood on the other side of the backrest.
29     Repeat steps 27-28, securing another piece of wood on the other side of the backrest.
30     Turn the chair frame in its side, place a piece of wood parallel to the front leg (opposite of the leg near the seat gap). Secure to the upper frame with 2 screws.
30     Turn the chair frame in its side, place a piece of wood parallel to the front leg (opposite of the leg near the seat gap). Secure to the upper frame with 2 screws.
31     Secure to the lower part of the frame with 2 more screws. The bottom of the piece you secured should be positioned no lower than the lower part of the frame.
31     Secure to the lower part of the frame with 2 more screws. The bottom of the piece you secured should be positioned no lower than the lower part of the frame.
32     Repeat step 30-31 with another piece of wood on the opposite side of the frame.
32     Repeat step 30-31 with another piece of wood on the opposite side of the frame.
33     Slide the back of the chair in place through the seat gap. Lean the back rest as far back as it will go, and align the arms with the top of the arm supports.
33     Slide the back of the chair in place through the seat gap. Lean the back rest as far back as it will go, and align the arms with the top of the arm supports.
34     Join the backrest to the inside of the frame using 2 screws on each side.
34     Join the backrest to the inside of the frame using 2 screws on each side.
35     Join the arms to the arm supports with two screws on each side.
35     Join the arms to the arm supports with two screws on each side.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (18mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 30 pieces, 18.5in in length (31 pieces, 47cm in length, if using 18mm x 34mm wood)
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 124
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Utility Pendant Light

Aandersson

DIY globe pendant light designed by Aandersson
Utility Pendant Light

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

Designed alongside the One Gallon Floor Lamp and using similar utility-oriented parts, this pendant light replaces the standard pull chain switch and exaggerates the simple task of turning on a light. The full assembly process takes about 2 hours to complete. Steps include drilling a hole in the acrylic ball shade, wiring the lamp, and installing the moving strap switch. The parts cost a little over 100 USD on average.

DIY globe pendant light designed by Aandersson
DIY globe pendant light designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     Cut both ends of the white power cord exterior shell and interior wires to look as pictured. Make sure this is done delicately and cleanly, so no metal wire is cut/exposed except at the ends.
1     Cut both ends of the white power cord exterior shell and interior wires to look as pictured. Make sure this is done delicately and cleanly, so no metal wire is cut/exposed except at the ends.
2     Wrap excess wire around the top of the socket. Match up white “neutral” wires and screw wire nut onto them. Match up black “hot” wires and screw the other wire nut onto them. Make sure no metal wire is exposed. USE CAUTION...Please research how to do this exactly the right way with the socket and cord you have. All parts will be slightly different than those pictured.
2     Wrap excess wire around the top of the socket. Match up white “neutral” wires and screw wire nut onto them. Match up black “hot” wires and screw the other wire nut onto them. Make sure no metal wire is exposed. USE CAUTION...Please research how to do this exactly the right way with the socket and cord you have. All parts will be slightly different than those pictured.
3     Thread parts onto the white power cord in this order: Socket, straight coupling, threaded nipple, neckless ball insert and holder, 6in pipe, male threaded strain relief.
3     Thread parts onto the white power cord in this order: Socket, straight coupling, threaded nipple, neckless ball insert and holder, 6in pipe, male threaded strain relief.
4     Tighten the straight coupling onto the socket, then tighten the threaded nipple onto the straight coupling.
4     Tighten the straight coupling onto the socket, then tighten the threaded nipple onto the straight coupling.
5     Cut the nylon sling to the length of your choice. The standard length is about 17in (43cm).
5     Cut the nylon sling to the length of your choice. The standard length is about 17in (43cm).
6     Seal the cut end of the nylon strap by melting it for a few seconds with a lighter or match. Please use caution.
6     Seal the cut end of the nylon strap by melting it for a few seconds with a lighter or match. Please use caution.
7     Thread a straightened paper clip through the nylon strap and twist it to the beaded string on the bottom of the socket. Make sure the strap is very well secured.
7     Thread a straightened paper clip through the nylon strap and twist it to the beaded string on the bottom of the socket. Make sure the strap is very well secured.
8     Find the very bottom of the acrylic ball and drill into it using the hole saw. Use a very minimal amount of force with a medium drill speed. USE CAUTION. This will take time, patience and a steady hand on the drill.
8     Find the very bottom of the acrylic ball and drill into it using the hole saw. Use a very minimal amount of force with a medium drill speed. USE CAUTION. This will take time, patience and a steady hand on the drill.
9     Insert the light bulbs in the socket and place everything except the neckless ball holder inside the acrylic ball. Pull the nylon strap through the small hole.
9     Insert the light bulbs in the socket and place everything except the neckless ball holder inside the acrylic ball. Pull the nylon strap through the small hole.
10     Place the neckless ball holder on the ball, tighten the 6in pipe to the threaded nipple and tighten the male threaded strain relief to the 6in pipe. Tighten the plastic screw on the strain relief.
10     Place the neckless ball holder on the ball, tighten the 6in pipe to the threaded nipple and tighten the male threaded strain relief to the 6in pipe. Tighten the plastic screw on the strain relief.
11     To install, please do research and follow professional instructions. USE CAUTION...before you install make sure power is fully shut off in the ceiling. To prepare for installation (step 11 and 12), thread the canopy crossbar set onto the white power cord as pictured.
11     To install, please do research and follow professional instructions. USE CAUTION...before you install make sure power is fully shut off in the ceiling. To prepare for installation (step 11 and 12), thread the canopy crossbar set onto the white power cord as pictured.
12     Once you have installed the wire and crossbar to the ceiling (by using caution and following professional guidance not given here) tighten the female strain relief to the threaded nipple and tighten the plastic screw on the strain relief.
12     Once you have installed the wire and crossbar to the ceiling (by using caution and following professional guidance not given here) tighten the female strain relief to the threaded nipple and tighten the plastic screw on the strain relief.
Note: Some parts will need to be replaced for lighting being used outside of USA, Canada and Mexico.
Index
Parts
Nylon Eye-and-Eye Yellow Strap, 3ft (92cm) Length, 1in (2.5cm) Width
Quantity required: 1
Neckless Acrylic Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Quantity required: 1
Satin Nickel 1/8 ips Slip Canopy Crossbar Set
Quantity required: 1
Vacuum Chrome Canopy with 1/8ips Slip Through Hole
Quantity required: 1
Phenolic Socket Cluster with Pull Chain Switch
Quantity required: 1
Polished Nickel Plated Neckless Ball Holder w/ Insert for 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Quantity required: 1
White 18/2 SVT Power Cord, 8ft (3m) length
Quantity required: 1
Large Wire Nut with Spring Insert
Quantity required: 2
Straight Female Threaded Coupling, Nickel Plated, 1/2in W X 9/16in H, 1/8IPS
Quantity required: 1
Male Threaded Strain Relief, Polished Nickel, 1/8ips
Quantity required: 1
Pipe with 1/8ips female thread, Nickel Finish, 6in (15cm) length
Quantity required: 1
Threaded Hollow Nipple, 1.25in (3cm) length, 1/8 IPS
Quantity required: 1
Light Bulb for Medium Socket, Small, LED: 2-4 Watts
Quantity required: 2
Tools
Power Drill
Hole Saw, 1.5in (4cm)
Utility Knife
Screwdriver, Flat Head
Help Each Other

Extrusion Large Vase

Aandersson

DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Large Vase

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

Hollow 80mm T-slotted framing is a natural form for a vessel. The extrusion process creates beautiful and functional grooves on the exterior as well as weight and material saving cavities on the interior. The full assembly process for the 9.5in (24cm) tall vase takes less than 1 hour to complete. Steps include applying a rubber pad and sealer to the bottom and filling the cavities with some epoxy glue. The parts cost less than 100 USD on average. While caring for your anodized (non-black) vase, clean and re-fresh water regularly to prevent oxidization.

DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     Sand around the inside of the large and medium cavities near the lip of the aluminum framing, then wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. This is so that the glue holds on tightly.
1     Sand around the inside of the large and medium cavities near the lip of the aluminum framing, then wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. This is so that the glue holds on tightly.
2     With scissors, cut a 8cm x 16cm rectangle from the rubber sheet. Then draw the pattern shown in the image according to the dimensions in the image.
2     With scissors, cut a 8cm x 16cm rectangle from the rubber sheet. Then draw the pattern shown in the image according to the dimensions in the image.
3     With scissors, cut 3mm outside of the line you drew.
3     With scissors, cut 3mm outside of the line you drew.
4     Peel the backing off of the rubber sheet and place the on the end of the aluminum framing where you sanded. Take extra care to make sure all of the large and medium cavities are fully covered and press down on the rubber to make sure they are sealed.
4     Peel the backing off of the rubber sheet and place the on the end of the aluminum framing where you sanded. Take extra care to make sure all of the large and medium cavities are fully covered and press down on the rubber to make sure they are sealed.
5     Squeeze all 3 packages of epoxy into a disposable cup.
5     Squeeze all 3 packages of epoxy into a disposable cup.
6     Mix thoroughly with a disposable mixer.
6     Mix thoroughly with a disposable mixer.
7     In the open end of the aluminum framing, pour the epoxy evenly between both large cavities and both medium cavities, including excess on the cup sides. The epoxy should be about 2cm deep in each cavity. Then tilt framing slightly in all directions to help the glue settle. Let set for 24 hours before use.
7     In the open end of the aluminum framing, pour the epoxy evenly between both large cavities and both medium cavities, including excess on the cup sides. The epoxy should be about 2cm deep in each cavity. Then tilt framing slightly in all directions to help the glue settle. Let set for 24 hours before use.
Index
Parts
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 160mm, 240mm length
Quantity required: 1
Adhesive Backed Rubber Sheet, 12in x 12in (30cm x 30cm)
Quantity required: 1
Clear Epoxy Glue, Devcon Two Ton recommended
Quantity required: 3 (75ml or more in total)
Tools
Sandpaper, 200 Grit
Scissors
Disposable Cup and Mixing Stick
Alternative Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 160mm, 240mm length
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 160mm, 240mm length
Help Each Other

Translucent Fruit Bowl

Aandersson

DIY translucent fruit bowl designed by Aandersson
Translucent Fruit Bowl

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

It’s actually really fun to make this bowl. You are up against time because the hot plastic hardens as it cools, and while you can always re-heat and make adjustments, the ultimate form will reflect your quick movements to counteract gravity and the increasing tension in the plastic. The finished translucent bowl is roughly 13in (33cm) in diameter and it can be made larger by simply adding more plastic in step one. Assembly can be completed in about 1 hour and the parts cost less than 50 USD on average.

DIY translucent fruit bowl designed by Aandersson
DIY translucent fruit bowl designed by Aandersson
Assembly
Expand →
1     Place roughly 25oz of plastic pellets in a medium sized bowl along with 3 color granules of your choice and 30 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
1     Place roughly 25oz of plastic pellets in a medium sized bowl along with 3 color granules of your choice and 30 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
2     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
2     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
3     Push out large air pockets and roll plastic into a sphere. Place the plastic back into the medium bowl and immerse in boiling water.
3     Push out large air pockets and roll plastic into a sphere. Place the plastic back into the medium bowl and immerse in boiling water.
4     After a few minutes, take the plastic out of the bowl with tongs or spoons and place on coated butcher paper or a very smooth surface.
4     After a few minutes, take the plastic out of the bowl with tongs or spoons and place on coated butcher paper or a very smooth surface.
5     Flatten out to a roughly 14in (35cm) circle.
5     Flatten out to a roughly 14in (35cm) circle.
6     Turn up the edges of the circle as the plastic starts to harden.
6     Turn up the edges of the circle as the plastic starts to harden.
7     As you pinch the edges upward, keep in mind that the plastic will harden in within roughly 5 minutes from the time you began flattening the sphere.
7     As you pinch the edges upward, keep in mind that the plastic will harden in within roughly 5 minutes from the time you began flattening the sphere.
8     The profile of the bowl should look deep and rounded as pictured.
8     The profile of the bowl should look deep and rounded as pictured.
9     Lastly, pour boiling water in a pan and hold a portion of the bowl under the water for 1-2 minutes. Smooth the surface of the plastic with your hands to remove finger prints and small bumps. Repeat on the rest of the bowl and make sure to keep the water hot.
9     Lastly, pour boiling water in a pan and hold a portion of the bowl under the water for 1-2 minutes. Smooth the surface of the plastic with your hands to remove finger prints and small bumps. Repeat on the rest of the bowl and make sure to keep the water hot.
Index
Parts
Polydoh Moldable Plastic Pellets with Color Granules, 32oz
Quantity required: 1
Tools
Coated Butcher Paper or Smooth Clean Surface
Medium-sized Pot
Large Pan
Help Each Other

Translucent Pepper + Salt Mill

Aandersson

DIY plastic Pepper Mill designed by Aandersson
Translucent Pepper + Salt Mill

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

The ultimate form of this mill will be organic and somewhat unexpected, but thanks to the qualities of this plastic, it can be re-worked numerous times until you get the result you want. This roughly 8in (20cm) tall translucent salt + pepper mill can be assembled in a little over 1 hour with parts that cost less than 50 USD on average.

DIY plastic Pepper Mill designed by Aandersson
DIY plastic Pepper Mill designed by Aandersson
Assembly
Expand →
1     Crumple a few pieces of paper.
1     Crumple a few pieces of paper.
2     Wrap foil around the paper to create a shape roughly 10in (25cm) long and 1.75in (4cm) wide. The form can be as lumpy as you would like.
2     Wrap foil around the paper to create a shape roughly 10in (25cm) long and 1.75in (4cm) wide. The form can be as lumpy as you would like.
3     Place about 12oz of plastic pellets in a medium-sized bowl. If you would like color, add 1 color granule and 10 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
3     Place about 12oz of plastic pellets in a medium-sized bowl. If you would like color, add 1 color granule and 10 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
4     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
4     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
5     Flatten out into 2 squares: about 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) and 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm)
5     Flatten out into 2 squares: about 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) and 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm)
6     Add boiling water to large pan and place the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) square (with coated butcher/baking paper underneath) into the pan to re-heat the plastic.
6     Add boiling water to large pan and place the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) square (with coated butcher/baking paper underneath) into the pan to re-heat the plastic.
7     Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) plastic and roll onto the tube.
7     Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) plastic and roll onto the tube.
8     Re-heat the 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm) plastic like in step 6. Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the plastic and roll onto the tube.
8     Re-heat the 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm) plastic like in step 6. Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the plastic and roll onto the tube.
9     Push the plastic over the end of the tube as well. Make sure both plastic pieces are not touching.
9     Push the plastic over the end of the tube as well. Make sure both plastic pieces are not touching.
10     Remove all foil and paper from the two pieces. Hold one end of the larger piece in hot water until about 2.5in (6cm) is soft.
10     Remove all foil and paper from the two pieces. Hold one end of the larger piece in hot water until about 2.5in (6cm) is soft.
11     Place the mechanism inside so the end shown is not sticking out at all, and press the plastic around the mechanism so it is secure.
11     Place the mechanism inside so the end shown is not sticking out at all, and press the plastic around the mechanism so it is secure.
12     Re-heat the other end like in step 10 and make the opening a clean circle with the rod centered in the circle.
12     Re-heat the other end like in step 10 and make the opening a clean circle with the rod centered in the circle.
13     Re-heat the open end of the smaller piece.
13     Re-heat the open end of the smaller piece.
14     Firmly press the plastic around the small mechanism piece as photographed. Make sure the area near the mechanism piece is a smooth circle.
14     Firmly press the plastic around the small mechanism piece as photographed. Make sure the area near the mechanism piece is a smooth circle.
15     Fold heavy duty aluminum foil into a roughly 4in x 8in (10cm x 20cm) rectangle
15     Fold heavy duty aluminum foil into a roughly 4in x 8in (10cm x 20cm) rectangle
16     Roll it up loosely and place it inside the large plastic piece.
16     Roll it up loosely and place it inside the large plastic piece.
17     To give the exterior a smooth look, re-heat it slightly and smooth the outside by rubbing.
17     To give the exterior a smooth look, re-heat it slightly and smooth the outside by rubbing.
18     If you want a shorter mill, you can also cut the center metal piece with a metal file.
18     If you want a shorter mill, you can also cut the center metal piece with a metal file.
Index
Parts
Polydoh Moldable Plastic Pellets with Color Granules, 12oz
Quantity required: 1
CrushGrind Pepper, Salt and Spice Mill Mechanism, 195 mm (7.6 in) length
Quantity required: 1
Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil
Tools
Coated Butcher or Baking Paper
Medium-sized Pot
Large Pan
Help Each Other

One Gallon Floor Lamp

Aandersson

DIY floor lamp designed by Aandersson
One Gallon Floor Lamp

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

A tall grey portable canopy weight tank conceals the one gallon of sand that anchors this 6ft (1.8m) high fixture to the ground. The full assembly process takes about 2 hours to complete. Steps include filling the tank with roughly one gallon (3.7 L) of sand or small stones, wiring the lamp, and installing the globe. Only two tools are required for this process and the parts cost 100 USD on average.

DIY floor lamp designed by Aandersson
DIY floor lamp designed by Aandersson
Assembly
Expand →
1     Place 4 vinyl bumpers on the lower portion of the bottom of the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
1     Place 4 vinyl bumpers on the lower portion of the bottom of the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
2     Fill the Eurmax canopy feet weight with sand up to slightly above the bottom of the handle, roughly 1 gallon (3.7 liter). Screw the lid back on.
2     Fill the Eurmax canopy feet weight with sand up to slightly above the bottom of the handle, roughly 1 gallon (3.7 liter). Screw the lid back on.
3     Pull the white power cord through the polished steel tube.
3     Pull the white power cord through the polished steel tube.
4     Thread pieces onto the white power cord in the order pictured: rubber washers and hex nuts (n,w,n,n,w,n,n,w,n), neckless ball holder and insert, threaded nipple, bottom of phenolic socket.
4     Thread pieces onto the white power cord in the order pictured: rubber washers and hex nuts (n,w,n,n,w,n,n,w,n), neckless ball holder and insert, threaded nipple, bottom of phenolic socket.
5     Screw threaded nipple into bottom of phenolic socket with your hands until tight. Use cutting pliers to trim ends of the white power cord so about 1/4in (7mm) of exposed wire is showing on each end.
5     Screw threaded nipple into bottom of phenolic socket with your hands until tight. Use cutting pliers to trim ends of the white power cord so about 1/4in (7mm) of exposed wire is showing on each end.
6     On the interior piece of the phenolic socket, insert the black wire into the “hot” (brass) terminal and the white wire into the “neutral” (silver) terminal. Make sure almost no wire is exposed and tighten screws with a screwdriver. USE CAUTION...Please research how to do this exactly the right way with the socket and cord you have. All parts will be slightly different than those pictured.
6     On the interior piece of the phenolic socket, insert the black wire into the “hot” (brass) terminal and the white wire into the “neutral” (silver) terminal. Make sure almost no wire is exposed and tighten screws with a screwdriver. USE CAUTION...Please research how to do this exactly the right way with the socket and cord you have. All parts will be slightly different than those pictured.
7     Reassemble the phenolic socket and screw on the light bulb.
7     Reassemble the phenolic socket and screw on the light bulb.
8     Stabilize the ball on a box with padding. Place the socket and neckless ball holder insert inside the white ball.
8     Stabilize the ball on a box with padding. Place the socket and neckless ball holder insert inside the white ball.
9     Guide the ball holder onto the threaded nipple and with your hands arrange the hex nuts and washers as pictured on the threaded nipple. Make sure not to over-tighten hex nut against holder and ball.
9     Guide the ball holder onto the threaded nipple and with your hands arrange the hex nuts and washers as pictured on the threaded nipple. Make sure not to over-tighten hex nut against holder and ball.
10     Push the polished tube over the part you just assembled.
10     Push the polished tube over the part you just assembled.
11     Unstrap the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
11     Unstrap the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
12     Arrange the polished tube onto the Eurmax canopy feet weight with the ball oriented upwards. Strap the polished tube down firmly.
12     Arrange the polished tube onto the Eurmax canopy feet weight with the ball oriented upwards. Strap the polished tube down firmly.
13     Stack two vinyl bumpers and place them under the polished tube. Let the tube rim rest on the bumper.
13     Stack two vinyl bumpers and place them under the polished tube. Let the tube rim rest on the bumper.
Note: Some parts will need to be replaced for lighting being used outside of USA, Canada and Mexico.
Index
Parts
Eurmax Hard Plastic Canopy Feet Weight
Quantity required: 1
Polished Stainless Steel Tube, 5ft (1.5m) length, 1in (26mm) diameter
Quantity required: 1
Sand or Small Stones, roughly 1 gallon (3.7 liter)
Quantity required: 1
Self-adhesive Vinyl Bumpers, 1/2in (2.5cm) width
Quantity required: 6
Phenolic Socket with 1/8IPS Cap, E-26 (E-27 for europe) size
Quantity required: 1
White 18/2 SVT Power Cord w/ Switch, 18ft (5m) length
Quantity required: 1
Neckless Gloss Glass Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Quantity required: 1
Polished Nickel Plated Neckless Ball Holder w/ Insert for 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Quantity required: 1
Hex Nut for 1/8-27 IPS
Quantity required: 6
Threaded Hollow Nipple, 6in (15cm) length, 1/8 IPS
Quantity required: 1
Rubber Washer, 1in (2.5cm) diameter, 1/8 IPS Hole
Quantity required: 3
Light Bulb for Medium Socket, LED: 5-6 Watts
Quantity required: 1
Tools
Screwdriver, Flat Head
Cutting Pliers
Alternative Parts
Neckless Acrylic Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Replaces: Neckless Gloss Glass Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in
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