Category: Archive

Marble Tile Side Table

Aandersson

DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
Marble Tile Side Table

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

Propped up with easy to install aluminum brackets, marble tiles are used as structural pieces in this 21in (53cm) tall side table. Assembly can be completed in less than 30 minutes and the parts cost less than 100 USD on average. Steps include sanding the edges and corners of the marble and screwing the tiles into place with four brackets. Each bracket comes with padded screws so that the tiles are firmly held without risk of cracking or scratching.

DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
DIY marble tile side table designed by Aandersson
Assembly

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1     Place the tiles on a soft surface and sand any markings off of the rough side of the tile. Wipe with damp cloth.
1     Place the tiles on a soft surface and sand any markings off of the rough side of the tile. Wipe with damp cloth.
2     Sand edges of the tile to get rid of chipping and sharp edges. Wipe with a damp cloth.
2     Sand edges of the tile to get rid of chipping and sharp edges. Wipe with a damp cloth.
3     Arrange two brackets on one end of each long tile so that the small part of the bracket is holding the tile.
3     Arrange two brackets on one end of each long tile so that the small part of the bracket is holding the tile.
4     Tighten the brackets to the long tiles. Do not over-tighten, but make sure the brackets are very firmly gripping the tile.
4     Tighten the brackets to the long tiles. Do not over-tighten, but make sure the brackets are very firmly gripping the tile.
5     Slide the brackets attached to the long tiles firmly onto place on the short tile. Tighten the brackets to the short tile. Do not over-tighten but make sure the brackets are firmly in place.
5     Slide the brackets attached to the long tiles firmly onto place on the short tile. Tighten the brackets to the short tile. Do not over-tighten but make sure the brackets are firmly in place.
Index
Parts
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 20in (20cm x 50cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 20in (20cm x 50cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Marble Floor Tile, Honed or Polished Finish, 8in x 18in (20cm x 45cm)
Quantity required: 1 full size sample
Glass Panel Bracket Clamp
Quantity required: 4
Tools
Sandpaper, 200 Grit
Screwdriver, Phillips Head
Help Each Other

Extrusion Bookends

Aandersson

DIY extrusion bookends designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Bookends

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

The lightweight and very strong framing material used in these bookends is a bit over-qualified to hold up a few books, but the beauty of the material’s form is something worth putting on display. The full assembly process for these two 7.3in x 5in (185mm x 125mm) bookends is easy and takes less than 30 minutes to complete. Steps include custom ordering parts, screwing them together, and applying some bumpers on the bottom for grip. The parts cost less than 50 USD on average.

DIY extrusion bookends designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion bookends designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     When purchasing the 100mm long frame part, have an end tap added to the left. This essentially adds threads in those holes for your screw to hold onto.
1     When purchasing the 100mm long frame part, have an end tap added to the left. This essentially adds threads in those holes for your screw to hold onto.
2     When purchasing the 185mm long frame part, have an access hole added in the middle (slot "VV") 12.5mm from the left.
2     When purchasing the 185mm long frame part, have an access hole added in the middle (slot "VV") 12.5mm from the left.
3     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Cut a strip of electrical tape and wrap it around the part of the fastener in the photo.
3     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Cut a strip of electrical tape and wrap it around the part of the fastener in the photo.
4     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Tuck in the edges of the tape.
4     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Tuck in the edges of the tape.
5     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. With scissors or an object with a point, poke through the tape where the screw's hole is.
5     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. With scissors or an object with a point, poke through the tape where the screw's hole is.
6     Loosely screw the fastener in the center hole of the 100mm long frame. Make sure to screw on the side with the end taps (threaded holes).
6     Loosely screw the fastener in the center hole of the 100mm long frame. Make sure to screw on the side with the end taps (threaded holes).
7     Align the fastener into the middle slot of the 185mm long frame.
7     Align the fastener into the middle slot of the 185mm long frame.
8     Place the Allen Key through the access hole and tighten the screw of the fastener.
8     Place the Allen Key through the access hole and tighten the screw of the fastener.
9     Make sure the sides are flush before tightening the fastener securely.
9     Make sure the sides are flush before tightening the fastener securely.
10     Place bumpers along the underside of the bookend, as photographed, and press down firmly. Repeat steps 1-10 to produce your second bookend.
10     Place bumpers along the underside of the bookend, as photographed, and press down firmly. Repeat steps 1-10 to produce your second bookend.
Index
Parts
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 100mm length, with Left End Tap Added
Quantity required: 2
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 185mm length, with Access Hole Added
Quantity required: 2
Standard End Fastener, M6
Quantity required: 2
Electrical Tape (needed for black frame only)
Quantity required: 1
Clear Self-adhesive Rubber Bumpers
Quantity required: 8
Tools
Allen Key, M6
Quantity required: 1
Alternative Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 100mm length, with Left End Tap Added
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 100mm length, with Left End Tap Added
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 185mm length, with Access Hole Added
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 185mm length, with Access Hole Added
Help Each Other

Translucent Fruit Bowl

Aandersson

DIY translucent fruit bowl designed by Aandersson
Translucent Fruit Bowl

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

It’s actually really fun to make this bowl. You are up against time because the hot plastic hardens as it cools, and while you can always re-heat and make adjustments, the ultimate form will reflect your quick movements to counteract gravity and the increasing tension in the plastic. The finished translucent bowl is roughly 13in (33cm) in diameter and it can be made larger by simply adding more plastic in step one. Assembly can be completed in about 1 hour and the parts cost less than 50 USD on average.

DIY translucent fruit bowl designed by Aandersson
DIY translucent fruit bowl designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     Place roughly 25oz of plastic pellets in a medium sized bowl along with 3 color granules of your choice and 30 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
1     Place roughly 25oz of plastic pellets in a medium sized bowl along with 3 color granules of your choice and 30 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
2     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
2     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
3     Push out large air pockets and roll plastic into a sphere. Place the plastic back into the medium bowl and immerse in boiling water.
3     Push out large air pockets and roll plastic into a sphere. Place the plastic back into the medium bowl and immerse in boiling water.
4     After a few minutes, take the plastic out of the bowl with tongs or spoons and place on coated butcher paper or a very smooth surface.
4     After a few minutes, take the plastic out of the bowl with tongs or spoons and place on coated butcher paper or a very smooth surface.
5     Flatten out to a roughly 14in (35cm) circle.
5     Flatten out to a roughly 14in (35cm) circle.
6     Turn up the edges of the circle as the plastic starts to harden.
6     Turn up the edges of the circle as the plastic starts to harden.
7     As you pinch the edges upward, keep in mind that the plastic will harden in within roughly 5 minutes from the time you began flattening the sphere.
7     As you pinch the edges upward, keep in mind that the plastic will harden in within roughly 5 minutes from the time you began flattening the sphere.
8     The profile of the bowl should look deep and rounded as pictured.
8     The profile of the bowl should look deep and rounded as pictured.
9     Lastly, pour boiling water in a pan and hold a portion of the bowl under the water for 1-2 minutes. Smooth the surface of the plastic with your hands to remove finger prints and small bumps. Repeat on the rest of the bowl and make sure to keep the water hot.
9     Lastly, pour boiling water in a pan and hold a portion of the bowl under the water for 1-2 minutes. Smooth the surface of the plastic with your hands to remove finger prints and small bumps. Repeat on the rest of the bowl and make sure to keep the water hot.
Index
Parts
Polydoh Moldable Plastic Pellets with Color Granules, 32oz
Quantity required: 1
Tools
Coated Butcher Paper or Smooth Clean Surface
Medium-sized Pot
Large Pan
Help Each Other

Translucent Pepper + Salt Mill

Aandersson

DIY plastic Pepper Mill designed by Aandersson
Translucent Pepper + Salt Mill

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

The ultimate form of this mill will be organic and somewhat unexpected, but thanks to the qualities of this plastic, it can be re-worked numerous times until you get the result you want. This roughly 8in (20cm) tall translucent salt + pepper mill can be assembled in a little over 1 hour with parts that cost less than 50 USD on average.

DIY plastic Pepper Mill designed by Aandersson
DIY plastic Pepper Mill designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     Crumple a few pieces of paper.
1     Crumple a few pieces of paper.
2     Wrap foil around the paper to create a shape roughly 10in (25cm) long and 1.75in (4cm) wide. The form can be as lumpy as you would like.
2     Wrap foil around the paper to create a shape roughly 10in (25cm) long and 1.75in (4cm) wide. The form can be as lumpy as you would like.
3     Place about 12oz of plastic pellets in a medium-sized bowl. If you would like color, add 1 color granule and 10 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
3     Place about 12oz of plastic pellets in a medium-sized bowl. If you would like color, add 1 color granule and 10 white granules. Immerse the pellets in boiling water and let sit until pellets are clear.
4     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
4     Remove plastic from the bowl with tongs or spoons. If color was added, knead the plastic by folding it on itself. Do this until the color is mixed thoroughly. BE VERY CAREFUL, the plastic will be hot and hot water may squirt out.
5     Flatten out into 2 squares: about 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) and 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm)
5     Flatten out into 2 squares: about 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) and 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm)
6     Add boiling water to large pan and place the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) square (with coated butcher/baking paper underneath) into the pan to re-heat the plastic.
6     Add boiling water to large pan and place the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) square (with coated butcher/baking paper underneath) into the pan to re-heat the plastic.
7     Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) plastic and roll onto the tube.
7     Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm) plastic and roll onto the tube.
8     Re-heat the 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm) plastic like in step 6. Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the plastic and roll onto the tube.
8     Re-heat the 6in x 3.5in (15cm x 8cm) plastic like in step 6. Place the end of the aluminum foil tube onto the plastic and roll onto the tube.
9     Push the plastic over the end of the tube as well. Make sure both plastic pieces are not touching.
9     Push the plastic over the end of the tube as well. Make sure both plastic pieces are not touching.
10     Remove all foil and paper from the two pieces. Hold one end of the larger piece in hot water until about 2.5in (6cm) is soft.
10     Remove all foil and paper from the two pieces. Hold one end of the larger piece in hot water until about 2.5in (6cm) is soft.
11     Place the mechanism inside so the end shown is not sticking out at all, and press the plastic around the mechanism so it is secure.
11     Place the mechanism inside so the end shown is not sticking out at all, and press the plastic around the mechanism so it is secure.
12     Re-heat the other end like in step 10 and make the opening a clean circle with the rod centered in the circle.
12     Re-heat the other end like in step 10 and make the opening a clean circle with the rod centered in the circle.
13     Re-heat the open end of the smaller piece.
13     Re-heat the open end of the smaller piece.
14     Firmly press the plastic around the small mechanism piece as photographed. Make sure the area near the mechanism piece is a smooth circle.
14     Firmly press the plastic around the small mechanism piece as photographed. Make sure the area near the mechanism piece is a smooth circle.
15     Fold heavy duty aluminum foil into a roughly 4in x 8in (10cm x 20cm) rectangle
15     Fold heavy duty aluminum foil into a roughly 4in x 8in (10cm x 20cm) rectangle
16     Roll it up loosely and place it inside the large plastic piece.
16     Roll it up loosely and place it inside the large plastic piece.
17     To give the exterior a smooth look, re-heat it slightly and smooth the outside by rubbing.
17     To give the exterior a smooth look, re-heat it slightly and smooth the outside by rubbing.
18     If you want a shorter mill, you can also cut the center metal piece with a metal file.
18     If you want a shorter mill, you can also cut the center metal piece with a metal file.
Index
Parts
Polydoh Moldable Plastic Pellets with Color Granules, 12oz
Quantity required: 1
CrushGrind Pepper, Salt and Spice Mill Mechanism, 195 mm (7.6 in) length
Quantity required: 1
Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil
Tools
Coated Butcher or Baking Paper
Medium-sized Pot
Large Pan
Help Each Other

Extrusion Velvet Sofa

Aandersson

DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Velvet Sofa

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

This sofa employs one of the simplest production processes of any structured and refined sofa in production today. The design is a result of countless compromises, experiments, and simplifications to distill the assembly to 24 steps that can be done within the course of about 6 hours by anyone that has the right tools and enthusiasm. The 26 pieces of lightweight aluminum framing can be completely taken apart and re-assembled in 30 minutes for easy moving. Parts for this difficult to assemble design cost on average 700 USD.

DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
DIY velvet sofa couch designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     To assemble the frame with the small brackets, first slide the bracket onto the channel of each frame piece.
1     To assemble the frame with the small brackets, first slide the bracket onto the channel of each frame piece.
2     Then, when the frame is in place, firmly tighten the bolts on the small bracket with a hex key.
2     Then, when the frame is in place, firmly tighten the bolts on the small bracket with a hex key.
3     To attach the large brackets to the frame, first slide the spring-loaded nuts in place as pictured.
3     To attach the large brackets to the frame, first slide the spring-loaded nuts in place as pictured.
4     Then arrange all 4 nuts in the channels of the frame so that they line up with the holes in the large bracket.
4     Then arrange all 4 nuts in the channels of the frame so that they line up with the holes in the large bracket.
5     Then, insert the screws through the holes in the bracket and firmly tighten with a hex key.
5     Then, insert the screws through the holes in the bracket and firmly tighten with a hex key.
6     Arrange the following pieces of the frame on a large flat space as pictured. Four 1070mm pieces, Five 730 mm pieces, and Six 300mm pieces. Take care not to scratch the frame.
6     Arrange the following pieces of the frame on a large flat space as pictured. Four 1070mm pieces, Five 730 mm pieces, and Six 300mm pieces. Take care not to scratch the frame.
7     Secure the frame with small brackets where the arrows are pointing in the picture.
7     Secure the frame with small brackets where the arrows are pointing in the picture.
8     Repeat step 7 for the other side of the frame you have laid out. Also, place 1 large bracket on each of the 300mm parts in the center of the frame (shown at the top of the picture).
8     Repeat step 7 for the other side of the frame you have laid out. Also, place 1 large bracket on each of the 300mm parts in the center of the frame (shown at the top of the picture).
9     Tilt the frame you have assembled so far on its side, and place two 1070mm pieces and one 300mm pieces next to the frame as pictured. Secure them with two small brackets (see arrows) and one large bracket (see circle).
9     Tilt the frame you have assembled so far on its side, and place two 1070mm pieces and one 300mm pieces next to the frame as pictured. Secure them with two small brackets (see arrows) and one large bracket (see circle).
10     With a hand saw, trim your MDF board so it is only 108cm (42.5in) in length.
10     With a hand saw, trim your MDF board so it is only 108cm (42.5in) in length.
11     Stand the frame on its feet and place the MDF boards in the channels in the middle of the frame.
11     Stand the frame on its feet and place the MDF boards in the channels in the middle of the frame.
12     Arrange one 730mm piece, one 790mm piece, and two 630mm pieces as pictured. The top side of the 730mm piece should be placed exactly 300mm (11.8in) from the top of this arrangement. Also, position small brackets on the frame as pictured and noted by the L diagrams.
12     Arrange one 730mm piece, one 790mm piece, and two 630mm pieces as pictured. The top side of the 730mm piece should be placed exactly 300mm (11.8in) from the top of this arrangement. Also, position small brackets on the frame as pictured and noted by the L diagrams.
13     Repeat step 12 with four new frame pieces. The positioning of the small brackets will be the only difference with this step.
13     Repeat step 12 with four new frame pieces. The positioning of the small brackets will be the only difference with this step.
14     Attach your assemblage from step 12 to the frame you have assembled so far. Slide the MDF board into the channel and tighten the small brackets (see arrows). Make sure everything lines up nicely.
14     Attach your assemblage from step 12 to the frame you have assembled so far. Slide the MDF board into the channel and tighten the small brackets (see arrows). Make sure everything lines up nicely.
15     Repeat step 14 on the other side of the frame you have assembled so far with your assemblage from step 13. Also, wedge folded pieces of paper in the frame to keep the MDF board from sliding around and sand down any raw cut edges of aluminum on the frame.
15     Repeat step 14 on the other side of the frame you have assembled so far with your assemblage from step 13. Also, wedge folded pieces of paper in the frame to keep the MDF board from sliding around and sand down any raw cut edges of aluminum on the frame.
16     On all of the 10 legs of the frame, stick felt bumpers.
16     On all of the 10 legs of the frame, stick felt bumpers.
17     Cut two pieces of velvet fabric in each of the following dimensions: 62in x 44in (158cm x 112cm), 48in x 37in (122cm x 94cm), 48in x 44in (122cm x 112cm). So, you should have cut 6 pieces in total.
17     Cut two pieces of velvet fabric in each of the following dimensions: 62in x 44in (158cm x 112cm), 48in x 37in (122cm x 94cm), 48in x 44in (122cm x 112cm). So, you should have cut 6 pieces in total.
18     Fold each piece in half, with the velvet on the inside, so two measure 31in x 44in (79cm x 112cm), two measure 24in x 37in (61cm x 94cm), and two measure 24in x 44in (61cm x 112cm). Sew, either by hand or with a machine, 1in (2.5cm) from the edge along the black line in the photograph (the folded edge of the fabric is the long side on the right).
18     Fold each piece in half, with the velvet on the inside, so two measure 31in x 44in (79cm x 112cm), two measure 24in x 37in (61cm x 94cm), and two measure 24in x 44in (61cm x 112cm). Sew, either by hand or with a machine, 1in (2.5cm) from the edge along the black line in the photograph (the folded edge of the fabric is the long side on the right).
19     Take one corner and line up the seams so that they are exactly in the middle of the corner. Sew across, as pictured, so that your sewing line is exactly 5in (13cm) long from one end of the fabric to the other.
19     Take one corner and line up the seams so that they are exactly in the middle of the corner. Sew across, as pictured, so that your sewing line is exactly 5in (13cm) long from one end of the fabric to the other.
20     Repeat this process for the remaining 3 corners and the remaining 5 pieces of fabric. To visualize how this will affect your fabric's shape before you sew, pin or clip along the sewing lines and turn the fabric inside out.
20     Repeat this process for the remaining 3 corners and the remaining 5 pieces of fabric. To visualize how this will affect your fabric's shape before you sew, pin or clip along the sewing lines and turn the fabric inside out.
21     Cut out pieces of batting that wrap fully around the length of the foam cushions, as pictured. The batting should not cover much, if any, of the shorter sides of the cushion, as pictured.
21     Cut out pieces of batting that wrap fully around the length of the foam cushions, as pictured. The batting should not cover much, if any, of the shorter sides of the cushion, as pictured.
22     Turn your sewn fabric inside out and stuff each cushion cover with the appropriately sized foam cushion wrapped in batting.
22     Turn your sewn fabric inside out and stuff each cushion cover with the appropriately sized foam cushion wrapped in batting.
23     Fold excess fabric under and staple or sew (sewing is preferred) opposite strips of Velcro to the open area of the cushion covers as pictured. Add these about every 2in (5cm).
23     Fold excess fabric under and staple or sew (sewing is preferred) opposite strips of Velcro to the open area of the cushion covers as pictured. Add these about every 2in (5cm).
24     Select a few Velcro strips to extend and attach a long piece of Velcro. Glue opposing sides of Velcro in the same length to the MDF board and attach the Velcro from the cushion to the board. This should will help keep the cushions from sliding out of place.
24     Select a few Velcro strips to extend and attach a long piece of Velcro. Glue opposing sides of Velcro in the same length to the MDF board and attach the Velcro from the cushion to the board. This should will help keep the cushions from sliding out of place.
Index
Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 30mm x 30mm
Quantity required: 6 x 1070mm length, 7 x 730mm length, 7 x 300mm length, 2 x 790mm length, 4 x 630mm length
Large T-slotted Framing Gusset Bracket
Quantity required: 3
Small T-slotted Framing L-shaped Bracket
Quantity required: 50
Felt Bumper, 3/4in (2cm)
Quantity required: 10
MDF Board, 1/4in (8mm) thick, 2ft x 4ft (61cm x 122cm)
Quantity required: 2
HD36 High Quality Cushion Foam, 5in (13cm) thickness
Quantity required: Two of each: 25in x 37in (63cm x 94cm), 18in x 30in (46cm x 76cm), 18in x 37in (46cm x 94cm)
Polyester Fiberfill Batting, 60in x 15ft (1.5m x 4.5m), 1in (2.5cm) Thick
Quantity required: 1
Hook and Loop (or Velcro), 3/4in (2cm) wide, 15ft (4.5m) long
Quantity required: 1
Velvet Upholstery Fabric, 10yd (9m), Slate Blue
Quantity required: 1
Tools
Hex Keys, M6 and M5
Hand Saw
Sewing Machine or Sewing Needles
Gutermann Extra Strong Thread
Clear 5 minute Epoxy Glue
Alternative Parts
Velvet Upholstery Fabric, 10yd (9m), More Colors
Replaces: Slate Velvet Upholstery Fabric, 10yd (9m)
Help Each Other

One Gallon Floor Lamp

Aandersson

DIY floor lamp designed by Aandersson
One Gallon Floor Lamp

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

A tall grey portable canopy weight tank conceals the one gallon of sand that anchors this 6ft (1.8m) high fixture to the ground. The full assembly process takes about 2 hours to complete. Steps include filling the tank with roughly one gallon (3.7 L) of sand or small stones, wiring the lamp, and installing the globe. Only two tools are required for this process and the parts cost 100 USD on average.

DIY floor lamp designed by Aandersson
DIY floor lamp designed by Aandersson
Assembly
Expand →
1     Place 4 vinyl bumpers on the lower portion of the bottom of the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
1     Place 4 vinyl bumpers on the lower portion of the bottom of the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
2     Fill the Eurmax canopy feet weight with sand up to slightly above the bottom of the handle, roughly 1 gallon (3.7 liter). Screw the lid back on.
2     Fill the Eurmax canopy feet weight with sand up to slightly above the bottom of the handle, roughly 1 gallon (3.7 liter). Screw the lid back on.
3     Pull the white power cord through the polished steel tube.
3     Pull the white power cord through the polished steel tube.
4     Thread pieces onto the white power cord in the order pictured: rubber washers and hex nuts (n,w,n,n,w,n,n,w,n), neckless ball holder and insert, threaded nipple, bottom of phenolic socket.
4     Thread pieces onto the white power cord in the order pictured: rubber washers and hex nuts (n,w,n,n,w,n,n,w,n), neckless ball holder and insert, threaded nipple, bottom of phenolic socket.
5     Screw threaded nipple into bottom of phenolic socket with your hands until tight. Use cutting pliers to trim ends of the white power cord so about 1/4in (7mm) of exposed wire is showing on each end.
5     Screw threaded nipple into bottom of phenolic socket with your hands until tight. Use cutting pliers to trim ends of the white power cord so about 1/4in (7mm) of exposed wire is showing on each end.
6     On the interior piece of the phenolic socket, insert the black wire into the “hot” (brass) terminal and the white wire into the “neutral” (silver) terminal. Make sure almost no wire is exposed and tighten screws with a screwdriver. USE CAUTION...Please research how to do this exactly the right way with the socket and cord you have. All parts will be slightly different than those pictured.
6     On the interior piece of the phenolic socket, insert the black wire into the “hot” (brass) terminal and the white wire into the “neutral” (silver) terminal. Make sure almost no wire is exposed and tighten screws with a screwdriver. USE CAUTION...Please research how to do this exactly the right way with the socket and cord you have. All parts will be slightly different than those pictured.
7     Reassemble the phenolic socket and screw on the light bulb.
7     Reassemble the phenolic socket and screw on the light bulb.
8     Stabilize the ball on a box with padding. Place the socket and neckless ball holder insert inside the white ball.
8     Stabilize the ball on a box with padding. Place the socket and neckless ball holder insert inside the white ball.
9     Guide the ball holder onto the threaded nipple and with your hands arrange the hex nuts and washers as pictured on the threaded nipple. Make sure not to over-tighten hex nut against holder and ball.
9     Guide the ball holder onto the threaded nipple and with your hands arrange the hex nuts and washers as pictured on the threaded nipple. Make sure not to over-tighten hex nut against holder and ball.
10     Push the polished tube over the part you just assembled.
10     Push the polished tube over the part you just assembled.
11     Unstrap the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
11     Unstrap the Eurmax canopy feet weight.
12     Arrange the polished tube onto the Eurmax canopy feet weight with the ball oriented upwards. Strap the polished tube down firmly.
12     Arrange the polished tube onto the Eurmax canopy feet weight with the ball oriented upwards. Strap the polished tube down firmly.
13     Stack two vinyl bumpers and place them under the polished tube. Let the tube rim rest on the bumper.
13     Stack two vinyl bumpers and place them under the polished tube. Let the tube rim rest on the bumper.
Note: Some parts will need to be replaced for lighting being used outside of USA, Canada and Mexico.
Index
Parts
Eurmax Hard Plastic Canopy Feet Weight
Quantity required: 1
Polished Stainless Steel Tube, 5ft (1.5m) length, 1in (26mm) diameter
Quantity required: 1
Sand or Small Stones, roughly 1 gallon (3.7 liter)
Quantity required: 1
Self-adhesive Vinyl Bumpers, 1/2in (2.5cm) width
Quantity required: 6
Phenolic Socket with 1/8IPS Cap, E-26 (E-27 for europe) size
Quantity required: 1
White 18/2 SVT Power Cord w/ Switch, 18ft (5m) length
Quantity required: 1
Neckless Gloss Glass Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Quantity required: 1
Polished Nickel Plated Neckless Ball Holder w/ Insert for 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Quantity required: 1
Hex Nut for 1/8-27 IPS
Quantity required: 6
Threaded Hollow Nipple, 6in (15cm) length, 1/8 IPS
Quantity required: 1
Rubber Washer, 1in (2.5cm) diameter, 1/8 IPS Hole
Quantity required: 3
Light Bulb for Medium Socket, LED: 5-6 Watts
Quantity required: 1
Tools
Screwdriver, Flat Head
Cutting Pliers
Alternative Parts
Neckless Acrylic Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in (10.5cm) Hole
Replaces: Neckless Gloss Glass Ball, 10in (26cm) w/ 4in
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