Category: up to 50 USD Average Cost

Simple Joinery Scrap Wood Stool

Ian Anderson

Simple Joinery Poplar Stool by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Scrap Wood Stool

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Spring 2021

This stool, a collage of scrap wood made utilizing modern versions of joinery methods like those used by John Surlis for his Leitrim Stool, is quite easy on the eyes because of its organic form. Tools like the quick bar clamp and the hand block planer are fun to use, making the 1 full day assembly time fly by.

Simple Joinery Poplar Stool by Ian Anderson
Simple Joinery Poplar Stool by Ian Anderson
Assembly
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1     Propping up one side on a piece of wood, saw lengths of wood for the following steps.
1     Propping up one side on a piece of wood, saw lengths of wood for the following steps.
2     Glue pieces of wood together to make a roughly 18in x 1.5in x 1.5in (46cm x 4cm x 4cm) piece.
2     Glue pieces of wood together to make a roughly 18in x 1.5in x 1.5in (46cm x 4cm x 4cm) piece.
3     Clamp the glued pieces together tightly and let dry. Repeat steps 2-3 two more times, to make 3 total legs.
3     Clamp the glued pieces together tightly and let dry. Repeat steps 2-3 two more times, to make 3 total legs.
4     Glue and clamp wood pieces together to make a roughly 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
4     Glue and clamp wood pieces together to make a roughly 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
5     Use the planer tool to shave the edges off of the legs, and shave one end of each leg down to a 1.25in (3cm) diameter. This measurement should match the size of the drill bit you are using.
5     Use the planer tool to shave the edges off of the legs, and shave one end of each leg down to a 1.25in (3cm) diameter. This measurement should match the size of the drill bit you are using.
6     Saw each corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
6     Saw each corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece.
7     Further saw each existing corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece to make a circular form.
7     Further saw each existing corner off of the 13.5in x 13.5in x 1.5in (35cm x 35cm x 4cm) piece to make a circular form.
8     Use caution with this step. With two firm hands on the drill, drill 3 holes through the top of the seat and out the bottom of the seat. Each hole angled outward.
8     Use caution with this step. With two firm hands on the drill, drill 3 holes through the top of the seat and out the bottom of the seat. Each hole angled outward.
9     Apply glue to the legs and twist through the seat holes until the leg emerges out the other end.
9     Apply glue to the legs and twist through the seat holes until the leg emerges out the other end.
10     Saw away the excess of the legs.
10     Saw away the excess of the legs.
11     Sand the rough edges and sand away the excess glue.
11     Sand the rough edges and sand away the excess glue.
12     Brush on two coats of varnish.
12     Brush on two coats of varnish.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Hard Wood, Various Sizes
*Any popular hardwood can be used, like Poplar, Birch, Beech, Cherry, and Oak. Softer hardwoods like Cherry and Poplar are recommended.
Satin Clear Acrylic Varnish
Quantity required: 1/2 Quart
Tools
Wood Glue
Quick Bar Clamp, Medium/Heavy Duty
Hand Block Planer
Hand Saw
Power Drill
1 1/4in Spade Drill Bit
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Rough and Ready Chair

Tord Boontje

Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Rough and Ready Chair

Designed by Tord Boontje
Published in Fall 2019

Tord Boontje’s visually striking Rough and Ready Chair utilizes a simple engineering trick, enhancing the strength of the brittle square frame by placing diagonal wooden pieces all around it. Its aesthetics are defined by whatever wood or spare blankets you happen to have on hand. The full assembly process takes up to 2 hours to complete, and the cost of parts really relies on how much you happen to already have. The design is also relatively easy to manipulate in order to make a bench or a stool.

Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Rough And Ready DIY Chair by Tord Boontje
Assembly

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1     Measure and cut the following lengths of 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm) wood: 2 pieces 33.5in (847mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long.
1     Measure and cut the following lengths of 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm) wood: 2 pieces 33.5in (847mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long.
2     Lay a 33.5in (847mm) long piece vertically. Horizontally, position one 18.5in (470mm) long piece 17.5in (440mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece. Then horizontally position one 18in (454mm) long piece 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece.
2     Lay a 33.5in (847mm) long piece vertically. Horizontally, position one 18.5in (470mm) long piece 17.5in (440mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece. Then horizontally position one 18in (454mm) long piece 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the 33.5in (847mm) long piece.
3     Drill and countersink one hole where each horizontal piece overlaps with the vertical piece.
3     Drill and countersink one hole where each horizontal piece overlaps with the vertical piece.
4     Twist a screw into the holes to join the two horizontal pieces to the vertical one.
4     Twist a screw into the holes to join the two horizontal pieces to the vertical one.
5     Position one 18in (460mm) long piece under both horizontal pieces. Use the end of a spare piece as a spacer, and drill + screw the 18in (460mm) long piece to the 18.5in (470mm) long piece. Make right angles between all 4 overlapping pieces, and add one more screw to complete the square. Place and screw a 21in (538mm) long diagonal piece for stability.
5     Position one 18in (460mm) long piece under both horizontal pieces. Use the end of a spare piece as a spacer, and drill + screw the 18in (460mm) long piece to the 18.5in (470mm) long piece. Make right angles between all 4 overlapping pieces, and add one more screw to complete the square. Place and screw a 21in (538mm) long diagonal piece for stability.
6     Repeat a similar process as in steps 2-5, making a structure almost mirroring the one made in steps 2-5 (the diagonal piece placement is not mirrored).
6     Repeat a similar process as in steps 2-5, making a structure almost mirroring the one made in steps 2-5 (the diagonal piece placement is not mirrored).
7     Leaving 1 width of wood space on either side of the frame, position a 15in (380mm) long piece 4.5in (116mm) from the top of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
7     Leaving 1 width of wood space on either side of the frame, position a 15in (380mm) long piece 4.5in (116mm) from the top of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
8     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and against the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
8     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and against the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
9     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and at the very front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
9     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18.5in (470mm) long pieces, and at the very front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
10     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18in (454mm) long pieces, and 3in (80mm) from the front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
10     Place another 15in (380mm) long piece across both 18in (454mm) long pieces, and 3in (80mm) from the front of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
11     Place the 13.5in (340mm) long piece across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces and 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
11     Place the 13.5in (340mm) long piece across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces and 4in (104mm) from the bottom of the frame, flush with either side of the frame. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
12     Place the 17.5in (440mm) long piece diagonally across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces. Make sure the frame is straight on a flat surface. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
12     Place the 17.5in (440mm) long piece diagonally across both 33.5in (847mm) long pieces. Make sure the frame is straight on a flat surface. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
13     Place the 14in (350mm) long piece diagonally across both 18in (460mm) long pieces. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
13     Place the 14in (350mm) long piece diagonally across both 18in (460mm) long pieces. Secure in place by drilling two holes and adding two screws.
14     Measure and cut the following rectangles of 1/2in (12mm) thick plywood: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm). Have these pre-cut at the store, if possible.
14     Measure and cut the following rectangles of 1/2in (12mm) thick plywood: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm). Have these pre-cut at the store, if possible.
15     Place the 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm) piece on the seat area and drill + screw it into place with 4 screws.
15     Place the 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm) piece on the seat area and drill + screw it into place with 4 screws.
16     Place the 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm) piece on the back rest area and drill + screw it into place on the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces with 2 screws.
16     Place the 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm) piece on the back rest area and drill + screw it into place on the 33.5in (847mm) long pieces with 2 screws.
17     Not part of the original design: If you are using softwood that is relatively thin, you may need to reinforce the back area, so it doesn’t break under pressure. To avoid this, use softwood that is at least (34mm x 34mm), or use hardwood (like maple).
17     Not part of the original design: If you are using softwood that is relatively thin, you may need to reinforce the back area, so it doesn’t break under pressure. To avoid this, use softwood that is at least (34mm x 34mm), or use hardwood (like maple).
18     To make the seat have a nice angle, cut 3/4in (17mm) from the bottom of the back legs. Then fold a blanket to about 44in x 16in (1100mm x 400mm) and place it on the chair.
18     To make the seat have a nice angle, cut 3/4in (17mm) from the bottom of the back legs. Then fold a blanket to about 44in x 16in (1100mm x 400mm) and place it on the chair.
19     Wrap one side of your Hook and Loop (or Velcro), with the flat side exposed, around the top of the back rest twice.
19     Wrap one side of your Hook and Loop (or Velcro), with the flat side exposed, around the top of the back rest twice.
20     Pull tight, and insert a small piece of the opposite side of the Hook and Loop (or Velcro) underneath to secure.
20     Pull tight, and insert a small piece of the opposite side of the Hook and Loop (or Velcro) underneath to secure.
21     Repeat steps 19-20 to secure the rest of the blanket to the seat and the back rest.
21     Repeat steps 19-20 to secure the rest of the blanket to the seat and the back rest.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 1in (34mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 32.5in (830mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (460mm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (470mm) long, 2 pieces 18in (454mm) long, 2 pieces 21in (538mm) long, 4 pieces 15in (380mm) long, 1 pieces 13.5in (340mm) long, 1 pieces 17.5in (440mm) long, 1 pieces 14in (350mm) long
Plywood, 1/2in (12mm) thickness
 
Quantity required: 1 piece 18in x 15in (450mm x 380mm), 1 piece 10in x 15in (250mm x 380mm)
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 64
Towel or Blanket
 
Quantity required: 1
Hook and Loop (or Velcro), 1/2in (13mm) wide
Quantity required: 15ft (4.5m)
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Help Each Other

Hempcrete Stool

Ian Anderson

Hempcrete DIY Stool by Ian Anderson
Hempcrete Stool

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Fall 2019

In making this stool, you will be producing an unconventional yet efficient building material with both insulation and thermal mass properties. Made up of hemp hurd, lime, and a binder material, hempcrete (as a single material) is a natural and carbon negative alternative to the abundant layers of insulation, drywall, cladding, etc… that cover the walls of our homes today. In some ways, the simple instructions for this stool are the same as instructions for building a wall of your home with this material. More on hempcrete here. The simple assembly process takes up to 1 hour to complete.

Hempcrete DIY Stool by Ian Anderson
Hempcrete DIY Stool by Ian Anderson
Assembly

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1     Cut a piece of cardboard 18.5in x 44in (47cm x 112cm) so that the corrugated lines run along the 18.5in (47cm) side. Roll up the cardboard to create a cylindrical form.
1     Cut a piece of cardboard 18.5in x 44in (47cm x 112cm) so that the corrugated lines run along the 18.5in (47cm) side. Roll up the cardboard to create a cylindrical form.
2     Tape the cardboard together, forming a cylinder. Also tape the cylinder to a wooden board (or anything sturdy you don't mind getting messy).
2     Tape the cardboard together, forming a cylinder. Also tape the cylinder to a wooden board (or anything sturdy you don't mind getting messy).
3     Use your disposable cup to add 1/2 cup of portland cement, and 1.5 cups of hydrated lime (or 1 cup of metakaolin and 1 cup of hydrated lime) to the mixing bucket. Make sure not to inhale any dust from these materials.
3     Use your disposable cup to add 1/2 cup of portland cement, and 1.5 cups of hydrated lime (or 1 cup of metakaolin and 1 cup of hydrated lime) to the mixing bucket. Make sure not to inhale any dust from these materials.
4     Use your disposable cup to add 2 cups of water to the mixing bucket.
4     Use your disposable cup to add 2 cups of water to the mixing bucket.
5     Use your disposable cup to add 7 cups of hemp hurd to the mixing bucket.
5     Use your disposable cup to add 7 cups of hemp hurd to the mixing bucket.
6     Wearing protective gloves, mix everything together in the mixing bucket.
6     Wearing protective gloves, mix everything together in the mixing bucket.
7     Transfer the mix to the cardboard cylinder and press relatively firmly, filling the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder will be hard to move when all steps are complete, so make sure it is in a location you are ok with it staying for weeks.
7     Transfer the mix to the cardboard cylinder and press relatively firmly, filling the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder will be hard to move when all steps are complete, so make sure it is in a location you are ok with it staying for weeks.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, until the cylinder is about 1/3 full.
8     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, until the cylinder is about 1/3 full.
9     Place a smaller cardboard cylinder, about 6in (16cm) in diameter, in the center of the larger one.
9     Place a smaller cardboard cylinder, about 6in (16cm) in diameter, in the center of the larger one.
10     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, filling the gap between the smaller cylinder and the larger one.
10     Repeat steps 3-7 multiple times, filling the gap between the smaller cylinder and the larger one.
11     Fill the cylinder almost to the top. The last mix you make, use slightly less hemp (6 or 6.5 cups). Pat down the mix so that it is perfectly level all around the cylinder.
11     Fill the cylinder almost to the top. The last mix you make, use slightly less hemp (6 or 6.5 cups). Pat down the mix so that it is perfectly level all around the cylinder.
12     Let everything dry for 2 days, and remove the cardboard cylinders very gently. Then Let the stool dry for about 6 weeks. Over that time, the hemp dries out, and the lime slowly hardens by absorbing carbon from the air.
12     Let everything dry for 2 days, and remove the cardboard cylinders very gently. Then Let the stool dry for about 6 weeks. Over that time, the hemp dries out, and the lime slowly hardens by absorbing carbon from the air.
13     Boil some water in a saucepan and mix in some all purpose flour, making a thin papier-mâché paste. Wait for the mix to cool, and brush it all over the stool. It should dry clear and help keep the hemp from flaking off.
13     Boil some water in a saucepan and mix in some all purpose flour, making a thin papier-mâché paste. Wait for the mix to cool, and brush it all over the stool. It should dry clear and help keep the hemp from flaking off.
Index
Parts
Hemp Hurd (Shiv)
Quantity required: 2.5 Cubic Ft (roughly 17lb, 7.5kg)
Hydrated Lime
 
Quantity required: 20lb (9kg)
Portland Cement
 
Quantity required: 5lb (2.3kg)
All Purpose Flour
 
Quantity required: A small hand full
Tools
Cardboard
Packaging Tape
Mixing Bucket
Protective Plastic or Rubber Gloves
Disposable Cup
Alternative Parts
Metakaolin
*This material is much harder to obtain, but it is a by-product of some glass production, so less ecologically destructive to use than portland cement.
Replaces: Portland Cement
Quantity required: 10lb (4.5kg)
Help Each Other

Sedia 1 Chair

Enzo Mari

Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Sedia 1 Chair

Designed by Enzo Mari
Published in Fall 2019

Originally published in Enzo Mari’s Autoprogettazione, alongside a full collection of easy to assemble furniture, the Sedia 1 Chair has emerged as the most recognized piece from the collection. It requires the simple manual processes of sawing lengths of softwood and hammering the pieces together with nails. The full assembly process takes up to 2 hours to complete. Each chair costs under 25 USD on average to produce.

Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Sedia 1 autoprogettazione DIY Chair by Enzo Mari
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 44mm) wood: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 44mm) wood: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 194mm) wood: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long. Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of (20.5mm x 194mm) wood: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long. Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
4     Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
4     Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
5     Place one 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the left side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece.
5     Place one 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the left side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece.
6     Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
6     Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
7     Place one more 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the right side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
7     Place one more 17.5in (44cm) long piece on top of and aligned with the right side of one 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
8     Place one 24in (61cm) long piece aligned with the bottom and left edge of the 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
8     Place one 24in (61cm) long piece aligned with the bottom and left edge of the 18.5in (47cm) long piece. Hammer in 3 nails where the pieces overlap.
9     Create a piece that mirrors the one you just made in steps 5-8.
9     Create a piece that mirrors the one you just made in steps 5-8.
10     Place the two pieces from step 9 on their sides, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top.
10     Place the two pieces from step 9 on their sides, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top.
11     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
11     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
12     Flip over the piece from step 11, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top, 1in (2.5cm) from the top of the chair leg.
12     Flip over the piece from step 11, and place one 19.5in (50cm) long piece on top, 1in (2.5cm) from the top of the chair leg.
13     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
13     Align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the chair leg, and hammer in 3 nails through the chair leg to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
14     Turn the chair on its back, and place a 19.5in (50cm) long piece across the two 24in (61cm) long pieces.
14     Turn the chair on its back, and place a 19.5in (50cm) long piece across the two 24in (61cm) long pieces.
15     Place a spare piece of wood underneath for support, align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the 24in (61cm) long piece, and hammer in 3 nails to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
15     Place a spare piece of wood underneath for support, align the end of the 19.5in (50cm) long piece with the side of the 24in (61cm) long piece, and hammer in 3 nails to join the pieces. Repeat on the other end.
16     Place two 20.5in (52cm) long pieces next to each other, flush with the front of the chair, and across the two 19.5in (50cm) long pieces.
16     Place two 20.5in (52cm) long pieces next to each other, flush with the front of the chair, and across the two 19.5in (50cm) long pieces.
17     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the front of the chair with 3 nails.
17     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the front of the chair with 3 nails.
18     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the back of the chair with 3 nails.
18     Hammer each 20.5in (52cm) long piece into the back of the chair with 3 nails.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 8in (20.5mm x 194mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 194mm wood can also be used though it is not preferred.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 20.5in (52cm) long, 3 pieces 19.5in (50cm) long, 2 pieces 18.5in (47cm) long
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (20.5mm x 44mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 44mm wood can also be used though it is not preferred.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 24in (61cm) long, 4 pieces 17.5in (44cm) long
Nails, 1-1/2in (40mm) Length
 
Quantity required: 48
Tools
Hand Saw
Ruler or Tape Measure
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Hammer
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Crate Chair

Gerrit Rietveld

Crate Chair DIY by Gerrit Rietveld
Crate Chair

Designed by Gerrit Rietveld
Published in Fall 2019

Rietveld’s Crate Chair (1934) was designed with a particular interest in using recycled materials. Building instructions for most of Rietveld’s designs have since been published in the 1986 book How to Construct Rietveld Furniture. Because this chair was originally produced, and it was not designed specifically as a DIY chair, it does require quite a lot of wood and more time spent with a saw. Assembly time is about 3 hours and the average cost is under 50 USD.

Crate Chair DIY by Gerrit Rietveld
Crate Chair DIY by Gerrit Rietveld
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 3 pieces 19.75in (500mm) long, 6 pieces 15.75in (400mm) long, 4 pieces 24.25in (620mm) long, 1 piece 17in (450mm) long, 1 piece 18.5in (491mm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 3 pieces 19.75in (500mm) long, 6 pieces 15.75in (400mm) long, 4 pieces 24.25in (620mm) long, 1 piece 17in (450mm) long, 1 piece 18.5in (491mm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw.
3     Saw the 17in (450mm) long and 18.5in (491mm) long pieces in half lengthwise. Then saw one of the 19.75in (500mm) long pieces lengthwise, making 2 pieces 2.25in (54mm) wide. Sand the rough edges. It is easiest to have steps 1-3 done for you at the wood store.
3     Saw the 17in (450mm) long and 18.5in (491mm) long pieces in half lengthwise. Then saw one of the 19.75in (500mm) long pieces lengthwise, making 2 pieces 2.25in (54mm) wide. Sand the rough edges. It is easiest to have steps 1-3 done for you at the wood store.
4     Position a 19.75in (500mm) piece on top of and 5.5in (140mm) from the top edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Use your square tool to check the angle is 90 degrees.
4     Position a 19.75in (500mm) piece on top of and 5.5in (140mm) from the top edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Use your square tool to check the angle is 90 degrees.
5     Drill and countersink 4 holes, each 1in (25mm) from the corners where the wood pieces overlap. Be careful not to drill through the entire bottom piece.
5     Drill and countersink 4 holes, each 1in (25mm) from the corners where the wood pieces overlap. Be careful not to drill through the entire bottom piece.
6     Screw 4 screws into the holes you made in step 5.
6     Screw 4 screws into the holes you made in step 5.
7     Place a 24.25in (620mm) piece on top of the opposite end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. The top edge should be 5.5in (140mm) from the top side of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Repeat the same process to join the pieces as in steps 4-6.
7     Place a 24.25in (620mm) piece on top of the opposite end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. The top edge should be 5.5in (140mm) from the top side of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Repeat the same process to join the pieces as in steps 4-6.
8     Stand the piece from steps 4-7 on its end, with the 19.75in (500mm) piece nearest to the top. Align one 2.25in (54mm) wide piece directly on top, flush with both ends. Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure one end in place.
8     Stand the piece from steps 4-7 on its end, with the 19.75in (500mm) piece nearest to the top. Align one 2.25in (54mm) wide piece directly on top, flush with both ends. Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure one end in place.
9     Add 2 more screws on the other side of the 2.25in (54mm) wide piece, repeating the process from step 8.
9     Add 2 more screws on the other side of the 2.25in (54mm) wide piece, repeating the process from step 8.
10     Make a mirror image of the piece you just assembled, using a similar method to steps 4-9.
10     Make a mirror image of the piece you just assembled, using a similar method to steps 4-9.
11     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 18.5in (491mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
11     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 18.5in (491mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
12     Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (400mm) piece to the 18.5in (491mm) piece.
12     Drill and countersink 2 holes and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (400mm) piece to the 18.5in (491mm) piece.
13     Repeat the process in step 12, securing the rest of the pieces together with 6 more screws.
13     Repeat the process in step 12, securing the rest of the pieces together with 6 more screws.
14     Slide a 15.75in (400mm) piece in the gap, exactly in between the two other 15.75in (400mm) pieces. Secure in place, as in steps 12 and 13, with 4 screws.
14     Slide a 15.75in (400mm) piece in the gap, exactly in between the two other 15.75in (400mm) pieces. Secure in place, as in steps 12 and 13, with 4 screws.
15     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 17in (450mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
15     Place two 15.75in (400mm) long pieces below and aligned with the ends of the two 17in (450mm) long pieces you made in step 3.
16     Using the same process as in steps 12-14, secure the pieces together.
16     Using the same process as in steps 12-14, secure the pieces together.
17     Lay down one of your pieces from step 10, with the screws facing upwards. Disconnect the lowest 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make a mark 2in (50mm) from the top of the open end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece, and another 2.5in (65mm) from the top of the end that meets the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Draw a line connecting the marks.
17     Lay down one of your pieces from step 10, with the screws facing upwards. Disconnect the lowest 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make a mark 2in (50mm) from the top of the open end of the 19.75in (500mm) piece, and another 2.5in (65mm) from the top of the end that meets the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Draw a line connecting the marks.
18     Drill 5 perfectly equidistant holes along the line, starting 1in (25mm) from the beginning of the line and ending 1in (25mm) from the end.
18     Drill 5 perfectly equidistant holes along the line, starting 1in (25mm) from the beginning of the line and ending 1in (25mm) from the end.
19     Make a mark 1in (25mm) from the top corner of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make another mark 2.5in (63mm) from the outside edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece and aligned with the top edge of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Draw a line connecting those marks.
19     Make a mark 1in (25mm) from the top corner of the 24.25in (620mm) piece. Make another mark 2.5in (63mm) from the outside edge of the 24.25in (620mm) piece and aligned with the top edge of the 19.75in (500mm) piece. Draw a line connecting those marks.
20     Drill 3 holes along the line: one 1/2in (15mm), one 2in (50mm), and one 5in (130mm) from the top of the line.
20     Drill 3 holes along the line: one 1/2in (15mm), one 2in (50mm), and one 5in (130mm) from the top of the line.
21     Repeat a mirror image of the process in steps 17-20 to the other piece from step 10.
21     Repeat a mirror image of the process in steps 17-20 to the other piece from step 10.
22     Place the piece from step 14 on its side, draw a line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting 3/4in (18mm) from one side, drill 5 equidistant holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 18. Flip the piece over, and drill 5 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
22     Place the piece from step 14 on its side, draw a line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting 3/4in (18mm) from one side, drill 5 equidistant holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 18. Flip the piece over, and drill 5 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
23     Place the piece from step 16 on its side, draw a 6.5in (165mm) line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting at the end of the line, drill 3 holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 20. Flip the piece over, and drill 3 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
23     Place the piece from step 16 on its side, draw a 6.5in (165mm) line down the middle of the 15.75in (400mm) piece. Starting at the end of the line, drill 3 holes mirroring the same positioning as in step 20. Flip the piece over, and drill 3 more holes mirroring the positioning on the other side of the piece.
24     With the piece from step 22 on its side, place the arm rest piece that aligns with your holes on top. Countersink the 5 holes and add screws.
24     With the piece from step 22 on its side, place the arm rest piece that aligns with your holes on top. Countersink the 5 holes and add screws.
25     Repeat the process from step 24, but with the other arm rest.
25     Repeat the process from step 24, but with the other arm rest.
26     Re-attach the 24.25in (620mm) pieces you took off in steps 17 and 21.
26     Re-attach the 24.25in (620mm) pieces you took off in steps 17 and 21.
27     Align the piece from step 23 with it's holes on the arm rests. Countersink and screw in the 6 screws to join the pieces.
27     Align the piece from step 23 with it's holes on the arm rests. Countersink and screw in the 6 screws to join the pieces.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 6in (20.5mm x 144mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 144mm wood can also be used, though arm and back rest measurements will need to be adjusted.
 
Quantity required: 3 pieces 19.75in (500mm) long, 6 pieces 15.75in (400mm) long, 4 pieces 24.25in (620mm) long, 1 piece 17in (450mm) long, 1 piece 18.5in (491mm) long
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 64
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

Two by Two Chair

Ian Anderson

Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Fall 2019

The Two by Two Chair ambitiously utilizes a webbing system to form its seating surfaces. The builder is required to stretch and nail in each strap so that there is no slack when the chair is complete. Its shape is reminiscent of Rietveld chair designs, but it makes some ergonomic concessions learned from more modern chairs, where the back support cradles ones lower back with minimal pressure. The full assembly process takes a little over 3 hours to complete and the parts cost 50 USD on average.

Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by Two DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 29.5in (75cm) long, 4 pieces 18in (46cm) long, 3 pieces 19in (48cm) long, 1 piece 16in (39cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 29.5in (75cm) long, 4 pieces 18in (46cm) long, 3 pieces 19in (48cm) long, 1 piece 16in (39cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after.
3     Arrange two 19in (48cm) long pieces horizontally and two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically on top.
3     Arrange two 19in (48cm) long pieces horizontally and two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically on top.
4     Using a spare piece of wood as a spacer, make sure the 19in (48cm) long pieces extend under the 18in (46cm) long pieces by one full width of wood. Also, the 18in (46cm) long pieces should hang over the 19in (48cm) long pieces on the top corners.
4     Using a spare piece of wood as a spacer, make sure the 19in (48cm) long pieces extend under the 18in (46cm) long pieces by one full width of wood. Also, the 18in (46cm) long pieces should hang over the 19in (48cm) long pieces on the top corners.
5     In the upper corner, using the square tool, confirm the pieces form a 90 degree angle, and drill two diagonal holes where they overlap. Drill countersink holes, wide enough the screw can be embedded in them, about 1/2in (1.5cm) deep.
5     In the upper corner, using the square tool, confirm the pieces form a 90 degree angle, and drill two diagonal holes where they overlap. Drill countersink holes, wide enough the screw can be embedded in them, about 1/2in (1.5cm) deep.
6     Twist in two screws to join the pieces.
6     Twist in two screws to join the pieces.
7     Repeat steps 5-6 on the other upper corner.
7     Repeat steps 5-6 on the other upper corner.
8     On the bottom 2 corners, repeat the process in step 5, drilling and countersinking holes.
8     On the bottom 2 corners, repeat the process in step 5, drilling and countersinking holes.
9     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) a 22.5in (57cm) length of polyester webbing. Fold one end under itself and nail that end down over the holes of the still unattached 19in (48cm) long piece from step 8.
9     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) a 22.5in (57cm) length of polyester webbing. Fold one end under itself and nail that end down over the holes of the still unattached 19in (48cm) long piece from step 8.
10     Repeat step 9 on the other end of the 19in (48cm) long piece. Place the previously assembled pieces back in place, and while placing a lot of pressure on where the pieces overlap, add 4 screws into the previously drilled holes, through the webbing, and into the holes on the 19in (48cm) long piece.
10     Repeat step 9 on the other end of the 19in (48cm) long piece. Place the previously assembled pieces back in place, and while placing a lot of pressure on where the pieces overlap, add 4 screws into the previously drilled holes, through the webbing, and into the holes on the 19in (48cm) long piece.
11     Stretch the webbing across the frame, fold the other end of the webbing underneath itself, push a nail through the end, and prepare to drive the nail in. The strap must be very tight on the frame, so use the nail to lever the strap tighter before driving it in.
11     Stretch the webbing across the frame, fold the other end of the webbing underneath itself, push a nail through the end, and prepare to drive the nail in. The strap must be very tight on the frame, so use the nail to lever the strap tighter before driving it in.
12     Drive the nail in.
12     Drive the nail in.
13     Add 4 more nails, and repeat the process in steps 11-13 to secure the other strap.
13     Add 4 more nails, and repeat the process in steps 11-13 to secure the other strap.
14     Position two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically at the lower corners of the frame.
14     Position two 18in (46cm) long pieces vertically at the lower corners of the frame.
15     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to join the pieces. Repeat on the other 18in (46cm) long piece.
15     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to join the pieces. Repeat on the other 18in (46cm) long piece.
16     Repeat the process in step 15, but on the inside of the frame. The 18in (46cm) long pieces should each be secured to the frame by 2 pieces of wood and 4 screws.
16     Repeat the process in step 15, but on the inside of the frame. The 18in (46cm) long pieces should each be secured to the frame by 2 pieces of wood and 4 screws.
17     Lay down 29.5in (75cm) long pieces vertically and one 16in (39cm) long piece horizontally between them.
17     Lay down 29.5in (75cm) long pieces vertically and one 16in (39cm) long piece horizontally between them.
18     Join each 29.5in (75cm) long piece to the 16in (39cm) long piece with 2 screws each.
18     Join each 29.5in (75cm) long piece to the 16in (39cm) long piece with 2 screws each.
19     Place a 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
19     Place a 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
20     Drill 2 holes, countersink, and add 2 screws on each end to secure the 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
20     Drill 2 holes, countersink, and add 2 screws on each end to secure the 19in (48cm) long piece 4.5in (12cm) from the top of the top of the piece in step 18.
21     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) nine 16.5in (41cm) lengths of polyester webbing. Nail one end of each of the 9 straps, evenly spaced, to the 16in (39cm) long piece. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need 7 straps.
21     Cut (and seal the ends with a lighter) nine 16.5in (41cm) lengths of polyester webbing. Nail one end of each of the 9 straps, evenly spaced, to the 16in (39cm) long piece. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need 7 straps.
22     Stretch the straps across the frame, and secure them in place using the method from step 11.
22     Stretch the straps across the frame, and secure them in place using the method from step 11.
23     Position the frame from the previous step so that the top of the seat measures 18in (46cm) from the bottom of the 29.5in (75cm) long pieces.
23     Position the frame from the previous step so that the top of the seat measures 18in (46cm) from the bottom of the 29.5in (75cm) long pieces.
24     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 19in (48cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
24     Drill two diagonal holes, countersink, and add two screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 19in (48cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
25     Drill two more diagonal holes, countersink, and add two more screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 18in (46cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
25     Drill two more diagonal holes, countersink, and add two more screws to secure the 29.5in (75cm) piece to the 18in (46cm) piece on the seat frame. Repeat on the other side.
26     Using the method from steps 11-13, add 7 more 25in (64cm) straps parallel to the existing 2 on the seat. Then, thread two 26in (66cm) straps across the 9 seat straps. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need to add 5 straps parallel to the 2 existing on the seat.
26     Using the method from steps 11-13, add 7 more 25in (64cm) straps parallel to the existing 2 on the seat. Then, thread two 26in (66cm) straps across the 9 seat straps. If you are using 2in (51mm) wide straps, you only need to add 5 straps parallel to the 2 existing on the seat.
27     Tighten the 26in (66cm) straps and nail to the underside of the seat at each end.
27     Tighten the 26in (66cm) straps and nail to the underside of the seat at each end.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 2in x 2in (44mm x 44mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 29.5in (75cm) long, 4 pieces 18in (46cm) long, 3 pieces 19in (48cm) long, 1 piece 16in (39cm) long
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 2in (4 x 50mm)
 
Quantity required: 32
Polyester Webbing, 1.5in (38mm) Wide
Quantity required: 41ft (12.5m)
Wide Head Wire Nail, 3/4in (roughly 20mm) Length
 
Quantity required: 200
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Hammer
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Alternative Parts
Polyester Seatbelt Webbing, 2in (51mm) Wide
Quantity required: 36ft (11m)
Replaces: Polyester Webbing, 1.5in (38mm) Wide
Help Each Other

Two by One Chair

Ian Anderson

Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One Chair

Design and photography by Ian Anderson
Published in Fall 2019

Featured in the essay Make This Chair., the Two by One Chair design was used as a pretext to pursue a discussion on DIY and the modern condition. It requires a minimal amount of materials by utilizing the triangle to both enhance the structure of the chair and define its aesthetic (much in the same way Enzo Mari and Tord Boontje did with their DIY designs). The full assembly process takes about 2 hours to complete and the parts cost less than 20 USD on average.

Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Two by One DIY Chair by Ian Anderson
Assembly

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1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 34.5in (88cm) long, 6 pieces 27.5in (70cm) long, 2 pieces 15.75in (40cm), 2 pieces 17.75in (45cm), 10 pieces 20in (50cm) long.
1     Using a square tool and tape measure, measure and mark these lengths of wood: 2 pieces 34.5in (88cm) long, 6 pieces 27.5in (70cm) long, 2 pieces 15.75in (40cm), 2 pieces 17.75in (45cm), 10 pieces 20in (50cm) long.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after. If you would like your chair painted or finished, do this after step 2 and before step 3.
2     Elevate the wood above the table and make cuts according to your measurements with the hand saw. Sand any rough edges of the wood after. If you would like your chair painted or finished, do this after step 2 and before step 3.
3     Arrange two 27.5in (70cm) long pieces vertically, and one 17.75in (45cm) piece horizontally, as photographed.
3     Arrange two 27.5in (70cm) long pieces vertically, and one 17.75in (45cm) piece horizontally, as photographed.
4     On the left side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. Using a spare length of wood, make sure the horizontal piece extends a full width of wood beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
4     On the left side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. Using a spare length of wood, make sure the horizontal piece extends a full width of wood beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
5     Hold both pieces steady and drill two vertical holes, evenly spaced. Then countersink the holes (do this by drilling very shallow holes, the width of the screw head, in the first holes).
5     Hold both pieces steady and drill two vertical holes, evenly spaced. Then countersink the holes (do this by drilling very shallow holes, the width of the screw head, in the first holes).
6     Screw the two pieces of wood together with two screws. The screw head should be flush with the wood.
6     Screw the two pieces of wood together with two screws. The screw head should be flush with the wood.
7     On the right side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. The horizontal piece should extend 2.75in (7cm) beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
7     On the right side, align the horizontal piece 10in (25.5cm) from the top of the vertical piece. The horizontal piece should extend 2.75in (7cm) beyond the vertical piece. Use a square tool to confirm 90 degree angle.
8     Drill holes and screw the two pieces together, as outlined in step 5 and 6.
8     Drill holes and screw the two pieces together, as outlined in step 5 and 6.
9     Align a 15.75in (40cm) length piece of wood so so that it is resting on the top of the vertical pieces and is flush with the left piece.
9     Align a 15.75in (40cm) length piece of wood so so that it is resting on the top of the vertical pieces and is flush with the left piece.
10     Hold the wood in place, vertically drill one hole, countersink and add one screw to attach the left vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
10     Hold the wood in place, vertically drill one hole, countersink and add one screw to attach the left vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
11     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the right vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece. Make sure both form a 90 degree angle.
11     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the right vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece. Make sure both form a 90 degree angle.
12     Place one 27.5in (70cm) piece to the right of the left vertical piece. Place one 34.5in (88cm) piece to the right of the right vertical piece, as photographed.
12     Place one 27.5in (70cm) piece to the right of the left vertical piece. Place one 34.5in (88cm) piece to the right of the right vertical piece, as photographed.
13     Use the width of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, and pinch the two vertical pieces together on the bottom, making sure the ends of the angled pieces are flush with the ends of the straight pieces.
13     Use the width of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, and pinch the two vertical pieces together on the bottom, making sure the ends of the angled pieces are flush with the ends of the straight pieces.
14     Hold the wood in place, drill holes and add two screws to secure the new 27.5in (70cm) piece.
14     Hold the wood in place, drill holes and add two screws to secure the new 27.5in (70cm) piece.
15     Repeat steps 13 and 14 to secure the new 34.5in (88cm) piece.
15     Repeat steps 13 and 14 to secure the new 34.5in (88cm) piece.
16     On the angled side of where the set of vertical pieces come together, drill two holes, countersink, and add screws. Screw heads should be flush.
16     On the angled side of where the set of vertical pieces come together, drill two holes, countersink, and add screws. Screw heads should be flush.
17     Repeat step 16 on the second set of vertical pieces. Make sure the two pieces are pinched together firmly.
17     Repeat step 16 on the second set of vertical pieces. Make sure the two pieces are pinched together firmly.
18     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the angled vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
18     Repeat step 10, but this time securing the angled vertical piece to the 15.75in (40cm) piece.
19     Repeat steps 3 through 18, but this time making a mirror image of what you made.
19     Repeat steps 3 through 18, but this time making a mirror image of what you made.
20     Place one 20in (50cm) piece between each vertical triangle. Make sure each piece is flush with the outside of the frame.
20     Place one 20in (50cm) piece between each vertical triangle. Make sure each piece is flush with the outside of the frame.
21     Drill vertical holes, countersink, and add two screws to the 20in (50cm) piece, securing it to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
21     Drill vertical holes, countersink, and add two screws to the 20in (50cm) piece, securing it to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
22     Drill holes, countersink, and add two screws to the vertical 27.5in (70cm) piece, securing it to the 20in (50cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
22     Drill holes, countersink, and add two screws to the vertical 27.5in (70cm) piece, securing it to the 20in (50cm) piece. Repeat in 3 other locations to secure the frame.
23     Arrange three 20in (50cm) pieces. They should be touching the vertical 27.5in (70cm) pieces, as pictured.
23     Arrange three 20in (50cm) pieces. They should be touching the vertical 27.5in (70cm) pieces, as pictured.
24     Drill one hole, countersink, and add one screw to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat on both sides until all 20in (50cm) pieces are secure.
24     Drill one hole, countersink, and add one screw to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 17.75in (45cm) piece. Repeat on both sides until all 20in (50cm) pieces are secure.
25     Place three 20in (50cm) pieces, evenly spaced in the remaining section of the frame. Attach to the frame, as done in step 24.
25     Place three 20in (50cm) pieces, evenly spaced in the remaining section of the frame. Attach to the frame, as done in step 24.
26     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (40cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
26     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 15.75in (40cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
27     Align one 20in (50cm) piece to the ends of the 34.5in (88cm) pieces, as pictured.
27     Align one 20in (50cm) piece to the ends of the 34.5in (88cm) pieces, as pictured.
28     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Be careful the screw and/or holes are not too deep. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
28     Drill holes, countersink, and add 2 screws to secure the 20in (50cm) piece to the 34.5in (88cm) piece. Be careful the screw and/or holes are not too deep. Repeat on the other side of the frame.
29     Arrange a 20in (50cm) piece about 3/4in (2cm) below the one from step 27, and repeat the process in step 28.
29     Arrange a 20in (50cm) piece about 3/4in (2cm) below the one from step 27, and repeat the process in step 28.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (20mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location. 18mm x 34mm or 19mm x 38mm wood cuts will also work.
 
Quantity required: 2 pieces 34.5in (88cm) long, 6 pieces 27.5in (70cm) long, 2 pieces 15.75in (40cm) long, 2 pieces 17.75in (45cm) long, 10 pieces 20in (50cm) long
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 70
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
Help Each Other

DIY Chair

Max Lamb

DIY Chair by Max Lamb
DIY Chair

Designed by Max Lamb
Published in Fall 2019

A DIY chair’s instructions are just as significant as the design of the DIY chair itself. The DIY Chair by Max Lamb, designed in 2008, is one of the more modern DIY chairs around, mainly because of the way Max chose to communicate the process of making the chair. The simple step-by-step method that he employed meticulously controls the process of production with detailed notes. The simple but time consuming assembly process takes up to 4 hours to complete. Parts cost under 50 USD on average.

DIY Chair by Max Lamb
DIY Chair by Max Lamb
Assembly

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1     Measure a length of wood at 18.5in (47cm) long and mark a line with your square tool.
1     Measure a length of wood at 18.5in (47cm) long and mark a line with your square tool.
2     Elevate the wood from the table and saw along the line you just made. Repeat step 1 and 2 until you have 30 pieces (31 pieces if using 18mm x 34mm wood).
2     Elevate the wood from the table and saw along the line you just made. Repeat step 1 and 2 until you have 30 pieces (31 pieces if using 18mm x 34mm wood).
3     Sand the rough edges and paint the pieces at this time if you would like. If painting, apply 2-3 light coats.
3     Sand the rough edges and paint the pieces at this time if you would like. If painting, apply 2-3 light coats.
4     Place two pieces of wood at a right angle with the wide side on top of the narrow side. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
4     Place two pieces of wood at a right angle with the wide side on top of the narrow side. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
5     Use the square to confirm a 90 degree angle, hold the two pieces down, and drill two vertical holes beside each other.
5     Use the square to confirm a 90 degree angle, hold the two pieces down, and drill two vertical holes beside each other.
6     Using a larger drill bit, countersink the holes. Then screw the two pieces together with wood screws until the screw heads are flush with the wood.
6     Using a larger drill bit, countersink the holes. Then screw the two pieces together with wood screws until the screw heads are flush with the wood.
7     Position the lower piece to be vertical. Place a third piece on top of the horizontal piece, and aligned with the edge of the vertical piece. Drill and screw the pieces together.
7     Position the lower piece to be vertical. Place a third piece on top of the horizontal piece, and aligned with the edge of the vertical piece. Drill and screw the pieces together.
8     Drill and add two more screws, through the wide side of the vertical piece, forming a triangular form secured with 6 screws.
8     Drill and add two more screws, through the wide side of the vertical piece, forming a triangular form secured with 6 screws.
9     Similarly to the process in step 5, 6, 7, and 8, secure two more pieces of wood at the end of the third piece.
9     Similarly to the process in step 5, 6, 7, and 8, secure two more pieces of wood at the end of the third piece.
10     Secure a sixth piece at the ends of the two parallel horizontal pieces. It should hang over each horizontal piece by 1 full width of wood.
10     Secure a sixth piece at the ends of the two parallel horizontal pieces. It should hang over each horizontal piece by 1 full width of wood.
11     Add two more legs to the frame.
11     Add two more legs to the frame.
12     By this stage, you should have a square frame with four legs.
12     By this stage, you should have a square frame with four legs.
13     Turn the frame over, and using one length of wood as a measuring spacer, secure a piece of wood parallel to the edge of the frame. Drill and screw each end.
13     Turn the frame over, and using one length of wood as a measuring spacer, secure a piece of wood parallel to the edge of the frame. Drill and screw each end.
14     Repeat step 13 for seven (eight if using 18mm x 34mm wood) more times.
14     Repeat step 13 for seven (eight if using 18mm x 34mm wood) more times.
15     Turn the frame over. There should be a gap left open on the seat.
15     Turn the frame over. There should be a gap left open on the seat.
16     Lay out another square frame with four wood pieces. Two parallel pieces on their narrow edge, and on top of them two parallel pieces on their wide edge.
16     Lay out another square frame with four wood pieces. Two parallel pieces on their narrow edge, and on top of them two parallel pieces on their wide edge.
17     The top pieces should overlap by 1 full width of wood.
17     The top pieces should overlap by 1 full width of wood.
18     Check that all corners form right angles, and join the pieces together with eight screws.
18     Check that all corners form right angles, and join the pieces together with eight screws.
19     Slide the new frame up the old one, positioning it 4 widths of wood below the seat base. Drill and screw two screws through each wide edge of wood.
19     Slide the new frame up the old one, positioning it 4 widths of wood below the seat base. Drill and screw two screws through each wide edge of wood.
20     This will secure the new frame to the old one using 16 screws total, 4 per corner.
20     This will secure the new frame to the old one using 16 screws total, 4 per corner.
21     To assemble the backrest, make a right angle with two wood pieces, as in step 4. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
21     To assemble the backrest, make a right angle with two wood pieces, as in step 4. The wide piece should hang over the narrow piece by 1 full width of wood.
22     Drill two holes, countersink the holes, and screw the pieces together. As in step 21, place a second piece at the other end of the upper piece. Drill and screw in place.
22     Drill two holes, countersink the holes, and screw the pieces together. As in step 21, place a second piece at the other end of the upper piece. Drill and screw in place.
23     Using the narrow side of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, place another horizontal piece across the narrow edges of the lower pieces.
23     Using the narrow side of a spare piece of wood as a spacer, place another horizontal piece across the narrow edges of the lower pieces.
24     Align with the edge of the first top piece, hold the wood in place, then drill and countersink two holes on each end of the piece you placed in step 23.
24     Align with the edge of the first top piece, hold the wood in place, then drill and countersink two holes on each end of the piece you placed in step 23.
25     Screw the piece in place at both ends.
25     Screw the piece in place at both ends.
26     Repeat steps 23-25, securing two more pieces. The backrest should have four pieces running perpendicular to two pieces holding them in place.
26     Repeat steps 23-25, securing two more pieces. The backrest should have four pieces running perpendicular to two pieces holding them in place.
27     Turn the backrest on its side, and place a piece of wood beneath the lowest of the 4 slats. With 2 screws, secure it to the piece running perpendicular to the 4 slats.
27     Turn the backrest on its side, and place a piece of wood beneath the lowest of the 4 slats. With 2 screws, secure it to the piece running perpendicular to the 4 slats.
28     With 2 more screws, secure the piece you added in step 27 to the lowest of the 4 slats.
28     With 2 more screws, secure the piece you added in step 27 to the lowest of the 4 slats.
29     Repeat steps 27-28, securing another piece of wood on the other side of the backrest.
29     Repeat steps 27-28, securing another piece of wood on the other side of the backrest.
30     Turn the chair frame in its side, place a piece of wood parallel to the front leg (opposite of the leg near the seat gap). Secure to the upper frame with 2 screws.
30     Turn the chair frame in its side, place a piece of wood parallel to the front leg (opposite of the leg near the seat gap). Secure to the upper frame with 2 screws.
31     Secure to the lower part of the frame with 2 more screws. The bottom of the piece you secured should be positioned no lower than the lower part of the frame.
31     Secure to the lower part of the frame with 2 more screws. The bottom of the piece you secured should be positioned no lower than the lower part of the frame.
32     Repeat step 30-31 with another piece of wood on the opposite side of the frame.
32     Repeat step 30-31 with another piece of wood on the opposite side of the frame.
33     Slide the back of the chair in place through the seat gap. Lean the back rest as far back as it will go, and align the arms with the top of the arm supports.
33     Slide the back of the chair in place through the seat gap. Lean the back rest as far back as it will go, and align the arms with the top of the arm supports.
34     Join the backrest to the inside of the frame using 2 screws on each side.
34     Join the backrest to the inside of the frame using 2 screws on each side.
35     Join the arms to the arm supports with two screws on each side.
35     Join the arms to the arm supports with two screws on each side.
Index
Parts
Smooth Planed Pine Wood, 1in x 2in (18mm x 34mm)
*Any popular softwood can also be used, like Redwood. Metric measurements above are actual, not nominal, and availability may vary by location.
 
Quantity required: 30 pieces, 18.5in in length (31 pieces, 47cm in length, if using 18mm x 34mm wood)
Flat Head Wood Screws, #6 x 1-1/2in (4 x 35mm)
 
Quantity required: 124
Tools
Hand Saw
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Ruler or Tape Measure
Screwdriver
Square (or flat object with 90 degree angle)
Sandpaper, 180 Grit
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Extrusion Vase

Aandersson

DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Vase

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

Hollow 80mm T-slotted framing is a natural form for a vessel. The extrusion process creates naturally beautiful and functional grooves on the exterior as well as a weight and material saving cavity on the interior. The full assembly process for the 9in (23cm) tall vase takes about 30 minutes to complete. Steps include applying a rubber pad and sealer to the bottom and filling the cavity with some epoxy glue. The parts cost less than 50 USD on average. While caring for your anodized (non-black) vase, clean and re-fresh water regularly to prevent oxidization.

DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion vase designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     Sand around the inside of the large cavity near the lip of the aluminum framing, then wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. This is so that the glue holds on tightly.
1     Sand around the inside of the large cavity near the lip of the aluminum framing, then wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. This is so that the glue holds on tightly.
2     With scissors, cut a 6cm x 6cm square from the rubber sheet.
2     With scissors, cut a 6cm x 6cm square from the rubber sheet.
3     Slightly trim the edges of the square you just cut.
3     Slightly trim the edges of the square you just cut.
4     Peel the backing off of the rubber square and place the square on the end of the aluminum framing where you sanded. Press down on the rubber to make sure all of the large cavity is covered and sealed.
4     Peel the backing off of the rubber square and place the square on the end of the aluminum framing where you sanded. Press down on the rubber to make sure all of the large cavity is covered and sealed.
5     Squeeze all of the epoxy into a disposable cup.
5     Squeeze all of the epoxy into a disposable cup.
6     Mix thoroughly with a disposable mixer.
6     Mix thoroughly with a disposable mixer.
7     In the open end of the aluminum framing, pour all of the epoxy into the large cavity, including excess on the cup sides. Then tilt framing slightly in all directions to help the glue settle. Let set for 24 hours before use.
7     In the open end of the aluminum framing, pour all of the epoxy into the large cavity, including excess on the cup sides. Then tilt framing slightly in all directions to help the glue settle. Let set for 24 hours before use.
Index
Parts
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 80mm, 230mm length
Quantity required: 1
Adhesive Backed Rubber Sheet, 6in x 6in (15cm x 15cm)
Quantity required: 1
Clear Epoxy Glue, Devcon Two Ton recommended
Quantity required: 25ml or more
Tools
Sandpaper, 200 Grit
Scissors
Disposable Cup and Mixing Stick
Alternative Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 80mm, 230mm length
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 80mm x 80mm, 230mm length
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Extrusion Bookends

Aandersson

DIY extrusion bookends designed by Aandersson
Extrusion Bookends

Design and photography by AANDERSSON
Published in Spring 2019

The lightweight and very strong framing material used in these bookends is a bit over-qualified to hold up a few books, but the beauty of the material’s form is something worth putting on display. The full assembly process for these two 7.3in x 5in (185mm x 125mm) bookends is easy and takes less than 30 minutes to complete. Steps include custom ordering parts, screwing them together, and applying some bumpers on the bottom for grip. The parts cost less than 50 USD on average.

DIY extrusion bookends designed by Aandersson
DIY extrusion bookends designed by Aandersson
Assembly
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1     When purchasing the 100mm long frame part, have an end tap added to the left. This essentially adds threads in those holes for your screw to hold onto.
1     When purchasing the 100mm long frame part, have an end tap added to the left. This essentially adds threads in those holes for your screw to hold onto.
2     When purchasing the 185mm long frame part, have an access hole added in the middle (slot "VV") 12.5mm from the left.
2     When purchasing the 185mm long frame part, have an access hole added in the middle (slot "VV") 12.5mm from the left.
3     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Cut a strip of electrical tape and wrap it around the part of the fastener in the photo.
3     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Cut a strip of electrical tape and wrap it around the part of the fastener in the photo.
4     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Tuck in the edges of the tape.
4     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. Tuck in the edges of the tape.
5     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. With scissors or an object with a point, poke through the tape where the screw's hole is.
5     Steps 3-5 are for black bookends only. With scissors or an object with a point, poke through the tape where the screw's hole is.
6     Loosely screw the fastener in the center hole of the 100mm long frame. Make sure to screw on the side with the end taps (threaded holes).
6     Loosely screw the fastener in the center hole of the 100mm long frame. Make sure to screw on the side with the end taps (threaded holes).
7     Align the fastener into the middle slot of the 185mm long frame.
7     Align the fastener into the middle slot of the 185mm long frame.
8     Place the Allen Key through the access hole and tighten the screw of the fastener.
8     Place the Allen Key through the access hole and tighten the screw of the fastener.
9     Make sure the sides are flush before tightening the fastener securely.
9     Make sure the sides are flush before tightening the fastener securely.
10     Place bumpers along the underside of the bookend, as photographed, and press down firmly. Repeat steps 1-10 to produce your second bookend.
10     Place bumpers along the underside of the bookend, as photographed, and press down firmly. Repeat steps 1-10 to produce your second bookend.
Index
Parts
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 100mm length, with Left End Tap Added
Quantity required: 2
Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 185mm length, with Access Hole Added
Quantity required: 2
Standard End Fastener, M6
Quantity required: 2
Electrical Tape (needed for black frame only)
Quantity required: 1
Clear Self-adhesive Rubber Bumpers
Quantity required: 8
Tools
Allen Key, M6
Quantity required: 1
Alternative Parts
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 100mm length, with Left End Tap Added
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 100mm length, with Left End Tap Added
Anodized T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 185mm length, with Access Hole Added
Replaces: Black T-slotted Aluminum Frame, 25mm X 75mm, 185mm length, with Access Hole Added
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